Recent content by RempageR1

I had the same issue when the vent tube was blocked (I sealed the tank and that blocked it). Then after filling up, the petrol warmed up and came out through the filler cap.

Great video! If you guys are into this, I recommend these two was well https://www.youtube.com/@RRCRestoration <- Serious skill there restoring motorcycles, and basically anything mechanical. https://www.youtube.com/@The_Bearded_Mechanic <- Fun channel about the basics of getting old stuff back...

In the end, I took the tach apart and resoldered the electrical components. You can get the circuit board off without having to remove the gauge needles which is pretty cool. The tach is working fine again.

Hi, As topic title. The wires are good and clean, Tach is dead until I gently tap it. Then it`s just fine. When the bike sits for more than a few minutes, I need to tap it again for it to work. Is there any way to fix this? Thank you.

Probably a wire indeed. If you have a multimeter, find the side of the turn signal fuse that goes into the bike. This is the side that has 0V between battery ground and that side of the fuse with the ignition on. Next, turn ignition off and keep the pins of the multimeter as they are (1 side on...

I used a screw driver on mine, not much really you can mess up there.

That`s a lot of questions in 1 post :). You first install both injectors into the aluminium t-connector, then add the manifolds and across the manifolds there will be two aluminum plates securing the two manifolds together. That will be the same style as you can see in previous posts. The...

There is about 7mm space between the two injectors so a T-shape connector is the only thing that fits. You should see it as a subassembly like the Vboost manifolds :). Fuel pressure is about 60 PSI.

Thank you, I will use values close to those. In the Netherlands, we use fuel which has around 5% ethanol so I have account for that as well. Ethanol is heavier so my flow rates are slightly lower. It doesn't mattter that much however, the ratio between the two injectors is what mostly matters...

Hi! It`s been a while so I thought it was time for an update. I`ve done a lot of work in the mean time and decided not to just move the injectors closer to the intake manifold, but to use two sets of injectors. The second set I got from a CBR 600 PC41. The injectors close to the cylinder head...

You just resolder everything on the back of the unit. Vibrations can crack the soldering points to heating them and resoldering them fixes that.

Great looking bike! Was just there at Kauai 3 months ago for holiday. You live in an amazing place! Lots of ideas here on the forum on how to improve your track time and there are always people that are willing to give you some advice. Welcome here at the forum!

Number 9 on the picture below. Once screw 10 is removed, youc pull plate 9 off and find number 11 behind it.

Like Fire-medic says likely the starter solenoid. Disconnect the two leads from the starter solenoid inside the red circle and isolate them (for instance by putting tape on each of them, do not tape them together). Now you should be able to connect the battery without the starter motor engaging...

Correct, and the chrome ring will definitely get damaged when opening it. But you can rotate the ring so the damage is on the bottom where you don't see it. The white plastic tends to chip so make sure you clean out all particles before reassembly.