Search results

When you say 'seemingly' did you check you had continuity using a meter or bulb and battery to all of the components between the ICU and associated components? Also did you check that you had battery voltage at the coils?

Can we assumed that you have checked the integrity of the wiring for continuity and power feed?

The Capn's suggestion is the simplest, the only bit of 'fun' you will have will be getting the flywheel off. Solution attached.

If you are using the harness from a '92 or later the following are also different: starter circuit cut-off relay turn signal relay possibly fuel pump relay (same number of wires but different colours) regulator/ rectifier

I seem to recall being asked who sells the radiator side covers I have but can't recall which post that was. Assuming my delusions haven't got the better of me and it isn't all part of my alternative reality, they are from Maerz. I don't remember them coming with the grill wire though and added...

Bad idea hat would suggest that the clutch plates are dragging. New plates won't fix that and may make matters worse as (assuming) they are thicker there will be less clearance. If the bike has been standing for any time then it is normal for plates that run in oil to wring together. However...

IMO tyres are not the issue and a Max will never handle like a GSXR. What have you done to check the suspension? Correctly adjusted head races Correct level of oil min forks Front and rear wheel bearings Swinging arm bearing adjustment Damping properties of rear shocks Condition of rear shock...

Have a read of this

Unless you have addressed the suspension then adding frame braces or solid mounts is unlikely to give significant benefit. Also IMO either braces or mounts- you don't need both.

Oh go on, you know you want to...you could have something like this. 😀

Post #4 explains the process. I had a belly pan decal wrapped and whilst it looked OK in MO it wasn't a patch on what I subsequently has hydro dipped. It lacked the gloss and depth that the lacquer coat gives. Also attached full list of paint codes and colours.

That would suggest that the lever ratio (m/c piston area to caliper piston area) to too low. Suggest a m/c with a smaller diameter piston will help.

And note that they are handed.

That effect is applied by hydo dipping which then transfers whatever is on the decal onto the part. The effect can be altered by changing the colour of the base coat. a clear coat is then applied. Not that this process is different from a vinyl wrap. This is how I got the carbon effect on my...

This will sound sarcastic but isn't intended to be; you need to look for a similar connector. If memory serves well (dubious) there is only one like this on the loom and may be from or to the alternator.

Attached are the instruction for fitting the DJ S7 which has the part numbers of the components. Is there somewhere you could get it on a dyno so you had factual data to work on? (Aw c'mon, you would have been disappointed if I hadn't asked! 😁 )

Yes it i possible. If you have stainless for front and rear brakes then if only for aesthetic reasons I would go with SS. As Mr Medic has mentioned a rubber reinforced hose will have some flex in it and the longer the hose the greater this will be. Don't know how much this may affect the feel of...

Perhaps I'm missing something but why can't you count the number of wires on the lead coming out of the flywheel cover> Five with twin pick-up and two with single.

But it will idle satisfactory when testing.

Short answer - I 'm very happy with them. Longer answer - How much benefit they gave I can't say as I also had the motor bored to 1300 and the heads gas flowed with an already fitted Holeshot exhaust. A dyno run gave 137 GG's albeit with a misfire ('cos some moron hadn't screwed a plug lead into...