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The light works as advertised....having the RPM along with all the programming functions on the LED display is a cool feature....I doubt I will ever see rain, but the unit is sealed and I would imagine you would need to take precaution just like any other electrical device.....will add pics...

...I may also mention that I am using these with drag bars....may be different with OEM or others... -MK

I have the mirrors your looking at....they work fine....unless your built like a pipecleaner....you'll be staring at your shoulders with stalk mirrors.... -MK

I'm 6'5" and the first thing I would do if I were you is get a cut down seat....doesn't make sense in theory, but it works....you will not ever have a ton of leg room, but your buying a hotrod...not a Goldwing..... -MK

been running automotive copper core wires for years....no failures, no problems.... -MK

I have had my ceramic coated system from Mark for almost 5 years now....still looks like new. Mine is not black, but they should all hold up the same over time. I had him make mine with 13" cans w/ 2" baffles....no turn downs....looks great, sounds great.....not too loud and no huge bazooka can...

Thanks Mark...that's what I was looking for. -MK

Anyone here done this mod with any acceptable or noticable results? :ummm: -MK

Time to renew that tag.....:biglaugh: -MK

considering doing the R/R mod, cutting out all the connectors, running directly to the battery, etc.....my question is this....looking at the original wiring diagram, it appears the red rectifier wire runs into the "crimp" that everyone recommends fixing, so....if you run the red wire directly...

I will take pics tonight.....the light was less than $90 on fleabay.....I believe the $26 light you saw was just an indicator light for oil pressure drops, etc... -Mike

in response to the brake bleed issue...I did my fronts last night after a new SS 2 line install and here is what I found.....I first tried the old fashion way...pump, crack the bleeder, pump, crack the bleeder....after and hour or so, and with no pressure build up & wasting about half a quart of...

thanks....I have heard about the marks but have been unable to locate them on my shocks, will look again. I knew that the top turned to adjust the preload but was unware if this was the only adjustment that these had. I have marked one of the small dimples that are on the top ring and counted...

Can someone here that has the Progressive 440's explain the way to adjust these for inital setup? I am not seeing much in the way of markings to indicate a starting point or a way to tell that both shocks are adjusted the same. Any help would be appreciated.:ummm: -Mike

Not sure that I have ever seen mention of the Speedhut SST Revolution shift light on here, so I thought I would mention it as another alternative for the Vmax. It hooks up just like the Raptor, three wires to the back of the factory tach. It has a 3 LED readout that is used for programming...

see what I mean....J.H.Christ....