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Thanks guys. Already have the motor in, so know about the surgery needed on the crossmember. Have the stator and pickups set up ready to go, still to get the ^&&*&%% rotors off, as both have never been moved. May just need an '85-90 TCI - not sure, as the one of my other bike had serious...

Greetings. Am in the process of replacing a lunched engine in an '88, with a '96 engine. (2 snapped conrods- not my work, but I reckon it was a nasty burnout..) Am I right in thinking that I could run the later ignition system if I can get a '90 on wiring harness, and a '90 on TCI or Dyna 3000...

Certainly in Aus, Viragos from the mid 80s seem to share a part or 2. (Typical Yamaha) For example, '82 750 Virago (monoshock) output shaft is prettymuch identical to '85 Vmax (don't ask how I know yet)

Front now done! Master cylinder first (R1) Man that's good, much better action, much more graduated. Then the Custom Vmax service's caliper adaptors for the R1 rotors & calipers. Oh boy, that's spectacular. Now it stops almost as good as it goes... Got the rear hanger, and an R1 rear caliper...

The other thing (I believe) it woulddo is add structural strength to the rim itself, in the same way that a 'T' brick lintel or header is substantially stronger than a flat one. So I would say don't remove it.

A quick note. My '85 had a 170/80 15 Mettzler rear, and a pronounced speed wobble at 110mph. When I changed the tyre yesterday, I went back to stock size, also noticing that although there was no side movement in the swingarm I could detect, the RH swingarm bolt was quite loose. So I torqued...

That's where the adaptors are coming from for the front. I got R1 rotors and calipers cheap (<$150 AU), not really thinking of the 'Busa option until too late. Rode it today, and even just the R1 M/c makes a huge difference to brake action. It is now far more graduated under brakes, and much...

Greetings all. Still working out my brakes. Fitted a 2001 R1 M/c today, and wondering why I am bothering with R1 rotors and calipers. Big difference! (already has Goodrich braided lines) Have ordered adaptors for calipers. Looks like the front disc will fit on the rear. Will advise..

I know most if this has been covered before, BUT Does anyone know the bore size of and R1 front master cylinder? I have a CB1100xx, but need to know if the bore size is ok.. And, on my 1985: If I use 2003 R1 calipers and rotors (rotors seem to fit), I know I need adaptors, but $160 + ...

The loss is that significant. The drivetrain changes direction by 90 degrees at least twice (?), vua output shaft, then at rear axle. This will account for much of the loss, so my engineer buddies tell me.. Didn't stock Vmax with Vboost have around 90 rear wheel hp, 145 at flywheel?

Have to believe you! Made a great bike fantastic anyhow.

No v boost means you need to use a weber-type balancing tool, as left pair and right pair carbys are connected permenantly. I would advocate dynoing it: more than likely tricky to set up, but once done can't hurt. As 2 stage 7 vs stock, other guys here know more than me. My dyno guy came up...

Only speculating, but now I have had mine dynoed (?), I can go 115 mile before reserve, where before I would only get 90 miles. I have a stage 7, but with stock airbox, no v boost. When dynoed, went from #165 main jets to #140. Had a huge hole in the midrange before, not now. The fuel use is a...

My dyno results. I have a stage 7 kit (no V-boost), stock airbox and air filter, Kerker 4-1 Jet size was 165, now 140 I will have a K & N on shortly, will have to raise the needles a clip when I do. Don't know air/fuel, do know it runs a touch lean down low (nothing to be concerned with...

I have done such things before You will need to make up a HEAVY lead set, with terminals one end that you can bolt to the Vmax terminals, and clips on the other end to fit to the battery, obviously long enough to reach. Ensure the Vmax's terminals cannot touch eachother or the frame...

I like that thought :rofl_200: Lankee is spot on, monitor the situation, see how ya go A guy I know recently blew a head gasket on a Honda CX500 Only symptoms were running hot, and when he pulled his exhaust off, he found coolant... Oil was fine, so there ya go Wheelspin when boosting: only on...

Sounds like possibly float levels, or needle/seat. Overfueling by too high float levels (or float needles not seating) will be fine when cold, (like when my bike was overjetted, you only needed the choke for 2-3 seconds), but would be problematic when idling, (to much fuel for too long) A thought ..

Know a guy who has worked on a number of older bikes, including XS11s and CB750 Ks. Evidently 2 gear problems are common due to excessive dog wear, caused by hard shifting, which if you think about it is often 1st-second, and 2nd-3rd. He used to undercut XS11 gears , having (believe it or not)...