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Been thinking tire also but have run this same size many times prior problem free

That was my thought too when I saw those 'stripes' for lack of a better description, but then when I carefully felt them... completely smooth so seems to be discoloration or something. Still will go back in and change them if I cant locate a cause. Sean Morley suggested a couple of things I...

The races (to me) looked to be in perfect condition so I reused them with new bearings new grease etc. *see pix at the end of thread* ... still trying to chase down the 75mph front end shake.

Thanks but was just showing the races I reused there (with new bearings) to get a second opinions on what I thought was good condition... still trying to chase down an up and down front end shake at 75mph.

uploading pix as an attachment...

Did this (finally) The races looked / felt perfect to me so I reused the old ones and packed new All Ball bearings with moly grease, reassembled and tighted using Sean M's 'bounce' tolerance. If anything it's a little more noticeable now. Steering feels fine however and did not see or feel...

...probably should add that they have never been messed with since I bought the bike in 2001. Marks there with a sharpie which I assume show where they were torqued to at the factory? I loosened both sides then torqued them back to specs and the marks lined back up exactly

Yes. Well, to the extent that they were torqued to spec and outwardly looked good under the chrome caps. Do I need to remove them to see if they are bad or is there a way to test them with the bike assembled?

Well, finally replaced the Steering head bearings and still have the shake. Was surprised actually at how good of shape they seemed to be in. WAY beyond the miles they probably should have been changed but grease was a little dry and that was it. Anyway, I can at least now cross that...

Just read through both. These are Great! Thanks a bunch T.Hawk Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Forgot to mention... My Service Manual says 85ft pounds on that Castle nut on left side, rear wheel axel. Mine was significantly looser then that. Can anybody verify the accuracy of that spec? & Do you guys torque it that tight? Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Thanks! Pretty much describes where I am at now Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Have not. Will do that ASAP. Happen to have a link to your favorite write up on doing that so I can avoid winging it? Also, don't Dyna bead amounts depend on the tire size? Sent from my Nexus 5X using Tapatalk

Revisiting this thread from several months back with some new info... so far I have done the 'pencil' check described above and checked the torque on the swing arm pivot shafts and nut. <== All could not seem to have checked out any more okay. Front tire and wheel, showing no signs of an out...

Corv-Man, as an owner of 16+ years and well over 100,000 miles (been though 3 speedo's on mine so I really don't know but likely closer to 200k) - I just have to take a moment to give a big +1 confirmation to what Kronx says above about VMax Props. Probably safe to assume most don't...

Definitely more or exclusively on the bars in the front... at 75 if you counted one one thousand two one thousand it would be cycles of fade shake fade shake fade shake etc

Interesting. I have that tallish, but not very wide midsize windshield. Wonky alignment here could really cause that? Easy to check tho' will look at shock settings too.

Okay thanks. Will probably have to wait until after the holiday to take apart the triple trees and inspect the bearings. By 'bounce test' your referring to what Sean describes in the video that Rollie sent above right? Or is that something specific to wheel bearings?

Never thought of it. Will try something like this. (assuming that you mean get a pen or something just barely under the wheel and spin to see if it touches at some point?