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No. Labworkauto. Where can I buy a good carb kit? I’m in South Africa so getting original is difficult and v expensive. EBay works for me

An update on this... Having removed and stripped down the carbs again. I found the problem! I couldn't believe it. The hole for fuel to supply the needle jet in the new ones had been drilled 180 deg wrong. See pic. So no change of any fuel getting in the motor above idle. I put back the old ones...

So having rebuilt the carbs the bike is terrible. I can get it to idle and sync the carbs. However, when I blip the throttle during the sync process it just dies. When I try to Rev it, it dies. So not rideable. This is what I have done: The bike was running but not very well I thought so decided...

Sorry for the late reply. There are 3 methods to change the diaphragm. 1. To prise the old diaphragm off and then gently insert the new one with a "putty knife" between two very close washers. 2. Is to grind off the flange holding the washers/old diaphragm and then use a RTV sealant to replace...

I am busy doing a carb rebuild. I need to replace the diaphragms and have seen several posts in this. From the more knowledgeable contributors here, should I grind off the flange at on the slider to replace the the diaphragm or try the putty knife method?. this seems very dangerous for the new...

If I put 12v across the fuel pump I should hear ticking. Is that correct? Where is the fuel pump relay located? Thanks in advance

Sorry: I’m busy with…

I buddy with reassembly. If there a recommended adhesive to use to hold the tappet cover rubber gasket in place?

Does anyone know what the correct engine colour should be? I get the black parts but what about the side covers and sump? Also, what are the screw holes in the cylinder side covers for? Nothing in mine

I will follow the sentiment here and keep the chain in tact

Thanks for the input

one2dmax: Are you able to offer some advice on this? I have had my heads cleaned up with a brass spigot pipe for the coolant. As the valves clearance have now all been set, I am reluctant to remove the cams and would rather break the chains. Are you able to recommend a tool for this? Thanks

?? You have lost me.

For those who may be interested I have now had the heads cleaned up but more importantly had a brass pipe made and inserted for the coolant spigot. I am now awaiting parts which should be here end Jan. Can someone help here: I have decided to install the heads complete so will need to break the...

Unless I have missed a removable link in the cam chain, I have to remove this in order to get the heads off. So now its done and plastic pipe broken. Oh well... Now I can concentrate on really why I started the job in the first place.

I agree with you but I don't know what happened before owned the bike. The part I was referring to is this Joint 1 26H-12469-01-00 Its a water joint between the cylinders. The above part number should be a hot link.

Thank you to all for the feedback. @Mac Max: You are correct on the leak down test but unfortunately I'm too late as the heads are now off. Now that they are off I will re-seat the valves anyway. @Stephan: Thats what I was looking for. If I de-rate the Std/Max/Min psi values for altitude then I...

I agree with the deviation on No 4. I am reluctant to delve too deep here as the bike was running ok. The problem with these bikes is that they are cheap to buy and run and believe me, I am a fan. However, when you start buying spares then no so cheap. There are probably better bikes available...

OK. The engine is out. A struggle but not too bad. I have not removed anything yet but have just run a compression test and attach the results. We are at about 4500ft agl (Similar to Denver). Can anyone tell me what I should be seeing so I can establish the amount I need to worry or not? VMAX...

I need to replace the cooling water spigot pipe from the top of the rear heads. The original has corroded and just disintegrated. Do need to remove the engine for this?