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Good luck with your set up. I think you should try your lid out before going back to the drawing board if you haven't already. That thing looks great. Mine probably doesn't have the clearance it should have either but even so it will move more air than Max can take in. I too hope to Dyno mine...

I went from 155 Mikuni's to 170 DJ's The DJ 170 is just a little smaller than a 160 mikuni but larger than the 155 mikuni's. It's what I had in my stash. I was trying to use the stock needles but decided to go back to the DJ stage 1's. I had good results from them before. They run a little rich...

Special thanks to every one for all the great ideas. Sean and Shane both convinced me that I was lean at the transition from needle to main. Here's the final set up with no breaking up at the transition. Stock PAJ 1's and 2's, air correctors DJ 1 needles, 1st clip from blunt end with 1 shim DJ...

Thanks Shane for replying to my PM so quickly. I think you are spot on and am going to give it a try. Yes, the floats have been set in addition to a good carb syn.

Now that is a good job! Better than mine.

Yeah Naughty, I'm not the brightest light on the Christmas tree when it comes to computers even after Brendan made it perfectly clear how to post the pictures. I'll eventually figure it out. I didn't get to ride the Max today with the vboost disconnected to see if that is my problem. Thursdays...

You are right ninjaneer. I cut the top of the lid off and epoxied the sides closed where the Y used to be. Then cut a square hole in the lid and installed a K&N SU-7953 panel filter with black automotive sealer. I doesn't have quite the area as Seans lid but it works and looks great. Believe it...

Thank's for the offer. I will keep it in mind. I actually had a set of DJ stage 1 needles and honestly the bike ran the best it ever has at one point. It would actually lift the front wheel from a roll on or break the rear tire loose when the vboost kicked in. Got great milage too. It was...

I did try 150,s and took it out the eairlier in the week and it was a bit colder. The bike was doing the same thing only at 4,000 rpm's. I contacted Sean by email and he thinks I should go as high as 160 or even 162.5 before even shimming the needles. I will see what I can do about posting a...

Good idea Mike. Considering there isn't much of a load on it the way I was testing it, it could be lean at the upper end of mid range. Anyway, what got me started was trying to figure which was the best size main as I had read somewhere that it would be mostly on the main around 7000 and it...

Thanks ninjaneer. I was just sitting at the supper table thinkink about the same thing. If It's not raining tomorrow I'll give your idea a try.

Yes, I did this in 1st gear. Imagine holding the throttle at 3000, every thing smooth and groweling, then 4th gear, hold the throttle still good but when it get's to just about where the vboost is kicking in the engine will start to break up if you hold it there but if you get into the throttle...

just easing into the throttle in 1st gear. Probably starts stumbling at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Will jump it if you whack the throttle.

Just easing into the throttle until redline. Probable 1/2 to 3/4 is where the stumble starts. Not just whacking it to wide open.

I've got the Max running pretty strong now at wot to redline. Decided to see if there were any issues through the throttle range and there is a considerable miss or stumble between 5500-7000 rpms ( part throttle ) although it will jump over it at wot. The V-boost is working, stage 7 springs...

Chris What do you mean by air correctors.