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The battery always stayed at 12.6 volts. The battery charger I have checks the percentage of the battery and it went down to 85% after 2 weeks and stayed there. This was the whole reason for this thread was to find out if it was normal to do that.

I know the stator wiring is good, I just did the starter clutch and checked them out. I think the stator is bad. Went through a tank of gas yesterday, it would still run rough and die when warm without the fan running.

Finally got a chance to mess around with it. I'm getting 12.6 volts at the battery without the bike running. 12.7-12.8 volts idling, warmed up with the fan on, will not stay running. 14.08 volts at 3000rpm with the fan on.

Autozone wouldn't load test it. Advance auto parts and Oreillys didn't have a problem doing it and both said it was good.

Thanks for the info. I completely rewired the charging and starting systems on the bike over the winter, new R1 voltage regulator, thicker wiring, everything soldered, 4awg battery cables, cleaned starter and new brushes. I tested the v.r. and stator after rewiring and everything checked out...

My bike is dying at every stop only when the fans running. Had the battery load tested at 2 different auto parts stores and they said it was fine. Get it home and charge it, a week later its at 90%, another week later its at 85% and has stayed there for a couple weeks now (its not in the bike...

Finally got a chance to get it running right, runs great just a little stumble off idle. Once in a while I cant get a cylinder or 2 to register on the morgan carbtune, does it require cleaning or lubed?

When I did get it to idle halfway decent only one carb was showing any movement on the sync tool. Seemed like it was missing and popping(through carb and exhaust) quite a bit.

Morleys jet kit with k&n lid, full kerker exhaust. What would cause the engine to rev to 4000-5000 rpm and stay there for a few seconds? Im sure its not the throttle cable because it does it using the choke too. Carbs have been gone through and only bench synced for now. I did find a couple...

Yes I'm talking about the 2 screws holding the throttle plates on the shafts. The venture carb bodies I have use the exact same part numbers as vmax carb bodies.

A few years ago I put 1300 venture carbs on my vmax, I swapped everything over(including the butterfly valves) from the vmax carbs to the venture carbs. Now that I'm rebuilding the carbs and putting in morleys jet kit in I noticed some of the butterfly valve screws are stripped. I figure the...

I have venture 1300 carbs on my vmax. Everyone told me they were smaller than vmax carbs, but they fit fine and the carb bodies have the same part numbers as vmax carb. I switched all vmax parts to the venture bodies.

My bike is lowered 2 inches. I took the stock exhaust off and put the kerker on with it on the kick stand. I've always had good luck heating rusty parts up(maybe warm the bike up first) then spraying them with pb blaster to get them apart. Keep a fire extinguisher handy, but nothings ever...

Anyone ever tried ceramic packing? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CERAMIC-silencer-exhaust-muffler-packing-1-thick-x-12-X-24-HIGH-TEMPERATURE-/110975853710?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19d6ad248e&vxp=mtr

Ok thanks, I thought I read somewhere that 2-stroke packing was made to not take as much heat and wouldnt last very long.

I just got done making a 2" baffle for my 4-1 kerker. Im putting stainless steel wool around it first. Would it be ok to use 2-stroke packing? The reason I ask is that I already have a bag of fmf packing but it says 2-stroke on it. Is there really any difference?

yellowandfast those are some nice bikes, the saw is cool too. That yellow is probably the color I would want. Are there any rd specific forums out there? NHVmaxpower thats a little far for me to drive, but Ill check them out thanks for the heads up.

Ill probably pass on this engine then. Its pretty hard to find an rd, Ive been looking for years and the only thing I can find is in the $3000 range. I would like to find one mostly there and rebuild it myself. I grew up riding 70s yamaha 2-strokes. Heres a 75 dt125 barn find I bought with 3000...

I got a banshee from a friend that raced it, quickest thing I ever rode till I got my vmax. Ive been looking for an rd350 since I found out the banshee motor came from the old rd design. Anyone know if I can get about the same power out of this old 60s motor, or should I be looking for a newer...

Thanks guys! I did some checking and its either from an r1 or r2, either way Im buying it. Ive been looking for an rd350 for a while, maybe I can put one together now.