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Another simpler option is to use progressive springs. The stock are also progressive springs but a much lighter rate. I have found the racetech in my opinion to be a bit harsher for just day to day riding then the progressives.

Depends on your budget and desired. If you bother getting them changed then you may as well change the profile anyway. BUT, I am not sure i wouldn't just shim appropriately and drive on without spending any of that money in the first place. I am not sold that they need to have anything done.

Your gain (or loss) in redoing the cams, getting upgraded profile cams, or leaving what you have are probably not even recordable on the dyno. I can tell you that the gain we were shown from a real world install of the bigger cams was a whopping 2hp. That didn't even cover the variability from...

I think I currentliy have 2 of the stock flyscreens on hand.

I broke down and bought an actual caliper piston tool removal kit. Came with multiple size "sockets" to tighten inside of a piston giving the ability to twist and pull to get them out. Works very well and quicker then the air pressure did for me.

They do wear and new copper crush washers usually fix it. Haven't tried to double them up though?

Well, what can I say. Not my style but props to the work overall.

Right on the money Kyle. All the same. My best performing gen 1 (stock) was a 2005 with california cannister (that had been crashed and even went end over end lol).

Shoot me an email at [email protected] and i'll get you the options I have new and used.

One other thing to check is the inner basket. They can work the rivets loose and allow the clutch to slip. I also am not a fan of the synthetic oil in these bikes. Some have ok experience but that's not been mine.

I may have some on hand here (and can help with the flash too).

As they have mentioned they do work to enhance the rigidity of the chassis. You can add to it even more by using solid motor mounts at the same time creating triangulation to the chassis.

I have a new old stock Holeshot but missing the mid pipe, I also have a nice Over Racing 4-1 that I had shipped in from Japan. I might have another used 4-1 here that I would need to double check. And, I can still get new Hindle 4-1's with different muffler options too.

I would start by checking chain adjustment. But without the cush drive system to dampen things you will have more noise from the drivetrain slop

I may have one around here too.

I've got a couple of the MM 300 kits here if anyone is interested. These are for sure not cheap kits! We repaired both with new gears in the offset box (one of the weak points of the kits).

List of people to please contact/email ([email protected]) me as soon as possible please: Richard Heatley - Signal Hill California Dane Nash - Sutherland Sydney Australia Damon Brown - Searcy Arkansas Brandon Reed - Fort Wayne Indiana Doug Evans - Indianapolis Indiana Jacob Griffith-Elliott -...

Agreed. Very very rare for a head gasket failure on these bikes. An over rev is more likely to wipe out a rod bearing or small end then a head gasket.

Not yet. Need to work with Darren to borrow his upper so we can scan it. Hasn't been on the top of my to do list but you can email me and maybe we can get it at least on the to do list lol. [email protected]

The higher the octane the more resitance to detonation and thus the slower the burn and flame front. You will LOSE power and performance if you use more octane then is needed to prevent detonation. Unburnt or slowly burnt fuel will just gum/carbon up the system. There are some race fuels (like...