Search results

Can I just splice the blue wire to that main fuse Culprit red wire, since that goes to the crimp connection? (W/o having to undo the wiring harness to get down to the crimp.) Wouldn’t that do the same thing? Or better yet, if I just install a heavy fused wire from the battery to the R/R...

Thanks, I know where it is now. Thanks 🙏 for all the help guys!

Thx. That should be sufficient. I had the previous wiring diagram listed above in the main thread but I didn’t see the ignition switch lead listed in that diagram.

man, I hate wiring.. I see your pic but I don’t really know what’s what. So bridge my hot wire to the R/R hot wire like it was & the key switch wire? Which wire is key switch wire? Any how-to videos on this? What is that relay or whatever you’re holding in your hand? Also, will this wire bridge...

Btw- it does have ground wire going from bolt of R/R directly to negative post on the battery. So grounding should be good.

man, I hate wiring.. I see your pic but I don’t really know what’s what. So bridge my hot wire to the R/R hot wire like it was & the key switch wire? Which wire is key switch wire? Any how-to videos on this? What is that relay or whatever you’re holding in your hand?

I figured as much. But I was getting 17.5 volts when the R/R was zapped running/reving. So I know the stator is charging. If stator is charging why wouldn’t a brand new battery & R/R let it charge?? looks like they had this issue before too if they bridged that wire directly to battery terminal.

No , unless that’s the same as my blue wire mentioned bridged into the R/R hot wire direct to hot post on battery?

Ok guys. I changed the R/R & have brand new battery. Left the Blue bridge wire disconnected & fired it up & reved it a bit to ~ 3500 rpm. I get 13.25 volts. That’s a little low isn’t it?! Maybe thats why they had it bridged in? Should I try bridging the blue wire in & see if I get better volts...

That’s what I’m going to do. Fire it up & check charging voltage running.

This is a 92’. I was worried about burnt connectors. But all was good. Didn’t see any burnt wires or plug connections.

Maybe that’s why it blew the regulator?

Ok guys. My rectifier went out. Bike was over charging & ruined 2 batteries. They were all swelled up/Pregnant looking. lol. I changed Rectifier out with a new one but I noticed my old one had this Blue wire bridged into the hot lead of the rectifier plug-in. It goes up to the hot post on the...

They put a breather in the auxiliary. Because it feed to the primary tank. So then it vents the whole system.

Ya, the other problem Is Jonny Lawman can hear us coming a mile away too. They already seem to have their radar on us anyhow. I don’t see any reason to add any fuel to that fire. Lol.

Guess I’ll just use 2 big zip ties. One on each slot.

Oh! I get it. So it’s supposed to just be a slot then. I see what you’re saying now.

So the fender is supposed to flip loose like that? That’s what I’m wondering. Or is it supposed to attach to something in that region to be rigid & not move?

My new to me- 1992 Gen I has a loose rear fender. You can take it with your hand & pick it up & down like 3-4 inches. I noticed it when I was changing plates. It has the 3-4 bolts up thru it up-top from underneath, but I took the seat off & noticed there is nothing attached to the front end of...

I agree. I’ve always liked loud exhausts but this is almost like running open exhausts. Just too much. It I still think I can step down to a sportier exhaust that will still be plenty loud to get people’s attention on the road, without it being obnoxiously loud.