Clutch feels dead...broke? loose?

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radley

radley

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Joined
Apr 7, 2013
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Location
Mankato, MN
Hey guys.

Getting my bike out after keeping it warm all winter. Tried starting it couple weeks ago, gas was spewing out the exhaust and also leaking from the carbs, it was a mess. It was turning over, tried to start it til battery died then did research, float stuck maybe, etc... I knocked on the carbs this past weekend and tried starting it again and it worked! Fired up and was smokey burning off the gas I think from earlier spillage...anyways...I was excited that she started up, but when I pulled the clutch in to put into gear, there was no resistance. The clutch lever isn't fighting back, it seems really loose and I'm afraid to try to put it into gear, but I dont think the clutch is doing anything when I pull it in (is that engaging or disengaging?).

I have the Vmax manual Clymer. I looked up Clutch pages and it goes way into depth and looks very overwhelming (inside engine part), or possibly do I have a broken clutch cable? Ideas fellas?

I plan on doing the following also.... any tips and tricks are welcome...

1) Change oil. Per recommended use Rotella T 15W40[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]. I have[/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][/FONT][/FONT][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif] [/FONT][/FONT][/FONT]a new filter and gasket ready to go.

***What other general fluid levels, simple tests should I do to make sure all good to ride?

2) REplace front fork springs and new gaskets, progressive springs, new parts already have all OEM as well. Vmax man says use full synthetic auto transmission fluid.

I think I also purchased a new steering column bearing to replace while I am in there...may not be needed but worth doing?

3) VBoost is kaputt. Has been for years, at 6K nothing spectacular is happening. Vmax man says squeeze black box, get at control board and look for poor welds....remelt solder where wire enters the board. Haven't done this yet but will do once up and running.....
[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT][/FONT]4) 2nd gear is trashed bad. Winter project I am assuming.....? I have contacted the dude who sells the videos and I'll plan on doing that job this coming winter... I just skip over 2nd gear for now as I have been doing.

5) seat cover is shot, well there are 3 pieces, the main piece is ripping at the seams.....advice? I wouldn't mind getting something like this http://www.ebay.com/itm/141958080282?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

Looks like I still have to install myself though anyways....

Has anyone replaced seat cover? I imagine I could buy some boat outdoor vinyl material, carefully take off existing piece(s), trace, cut out of new material, staple onto seat hoping I did it right.....

Any thoughts appreciated, tahnks. Help get me up and running this yr!

[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif][FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT][/FONT]
 
Sean Morley does the seats and you might think about making that vboost manual with a cable. I did and can open whenever i want. Clutch is hydraulic and doesn't have a cable-bleed it.
 
On that clutch.. check out the simplest thing 1st.. See if your levels are low or a leak of clear looking oil near the clutch cover. Also, check that rubber diaphragm inside the clutch reservoir.
 
blaxmax said:
Sean Morley does the seats and you might think about making that vboost manual with a cable. I did and can open whenever i want. Clutch is hydraulic and doesn't have a cable-bleed it.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I know Sean does the seat but it's a bit spendy for me, I'll find an alternative fix for the seat.

ok hydraulic, bleed it ok I'll have to read up on that, let you know what i find out.
 
I can sell you a set of stock used covers (in good shape) for $50. OR, you can pay the shipping and we'll even exchange the seat set for the same price and save you the labor.
 
All your hydraulics should be fluid-changed and bled. Better is disassembly & thorough cleaning: calipers, lines (if you cheap-out & don't replace 'em), clutch slave, brake masters & clutch master cyl. Your brake lines and pads should probably be changed, too. Your bike's 31 years old.
 
Fire-medic said:
All your hydraulics should be fluid-changed and bled. Better is disassembly & thorough cleaning: calipers, lines (if you cheap-out & don't replace 'em), clutch slave, brake masters & clutch master cyl. Your brake lines and pads should probably be changed, too. Your bike's 31 years old.
Click to expand...

+1. I THINK its recommended to change them every 5 years to avoid them getting soft and expanding under pressure.
 
Originally Posted by Fire-medic
All your hydraulics should be fluid-changed and bled. Better is disassembly & thorough cleaning: calipers, lines (if you cheap-out & don't replace 'em), clutch slave, brake masters & clutch master cyl. Your brake lines and pads should probably be changed, too. Your bike's 31 years old.

Traumahawk said:
+1. I THINK its recommended to change them every 5 years to avoid them getting soft and expanding under pressure.
Click to expand...

You're right Fire-medic. I should thoroughly maintain all hydraulics, now what are they?

Does anyone know of a diagram showing the parts of the bike? I dont know what/where anything is, master, slave cylinders for clutch brake....etc..

I am thinking master cylinder is the one up on handlebars, brake on right obviously and clutch on left,,,,so where/what is slave?

I'll need to compile a list of tasks, then I need to compile a parts list and start ordering parts. I'd like to do this properly and obviously my bike is way overdue. Plus it'll be fun to learn.

where do I start?
 
Where to start? Get a manual. Check the "Links" section of the forum for free downloads of the Yamaha factory service manual. I believe a Haynes manual is available in the link section too.

After you have a manual, browse the forum here. There are not many questions that you cannot find an answer to.

My first steps would be changing all fluids on a new to me bike.
Coolant
Engine oil
Final Drive oil (that one is for you Miles!) AKA rear differential
I'd probably do the fork oil too
Definitely brake and clutch fluid

Yes, front brake master is on right handle bars

Clutch master on left handlebar

Clutch slave is at the end of the clutch line, under the mid gear cover. Left side of the bike. Right near where your shifter foot is. You can see the line enter the engine in this area. There is a rubber flap that covers the bleeder for slave.

Rear brake master is attached to the rear brake pedal.
 
radley said:
Originally Posted by Fire-medic
All your hydraulics should be fluid-changed and bled. Better is disassembly & thorough cleaning: calipers, lines (if you cheap-out & don't replace 'em), clutch slave, brake masters & clutch master cyl. Your brake lines and pads should probably be changed, too. Your bike's 31 years old.



You're right Fire-medic. I should thoroughly maintain all hydraulics, now what are they?

Does anyone know of a diagram showing the parts of the bike? I dont know what/where anything is, master, slave cylinders for clutch brake....etc..

I am thinking master cylinder is the one up on handlebars, brake on right obviously and clutch on left,,,,so where/what is slave?

I'll need to compile a list of tasks, then I need to compile a parts list and start ordering parts. I'd like to do this properly and obviously my bike is way overdue. Plus it'll be fun to learn.

where do I start?
Click to expand...
http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Yamaha_VMax_VMX12(M_MC)_Owners_Manual.pdf




http://www.mediafire.com/download/edvviql9vvpjdea/VMX12+Service+Manual.pdf


http://www.mediafire.com/download/ywhlh3bflpxm0vw/Vmax_Owners_Manual_US(2).pdf
 
blaxmax said:
http://www.carlsalter.com/pdfs/Yamaha_VMax_VMX12%28M_MC%29_Owners_Manual.pdf




http://www.mediafire.com/download/edvviql9vvpjdea/VMX12+Service+Manual.pdf


http://www.mediafire.com/download/ywhlh3bflpxm0vw/Vmax_Owners_Manual_US(2).pdf
Click to expand...


I'll cross reference these doc's with my Clymer manual and try to get going on the general maintenance in the Owner's manual first..thanx!

**Just to be clear, the 400 page manual is SUPPLEMENTARY only? Meaning I have to see what my bike serial # is, etc and find the section that applies to me? Also, the Owners Manual link provided isn't for the 1985 model, must be later models? Can someone please specify?

i.e. front fork fluid amount is different I think, also engine oil filter is in cover for 1985 models and filter screws into engine like most cars for later models? The Owners Manual shows an oil filter similar to most cars....
 
Last edited:
While I have some of your attention,


What's a good final gear oil, it says SAE 80 API GL-4 Hypoid gear oil.

Does anyone know something that will work for final gear oil?

Also, Sean says full synthetic trans fluid will work well for fork oil..do I just look for both of these at Wal mart?

ANy recommendations? i.e. Sean rec's Rotella T 15W40 for engine oil.. and I think I can get that at Wal Mart.... matter of fact, looking at Wal Mart.com
Rotella T5 15W-40 Motor Oil, 1 gal. for $16.47

or this? Rotella T 15w-40 heavy duty diesel oil, T, T5? What's the diff...?

Looks like wal mart has some Valvoline gear oil, and manual says 80w90, high performance gear oil, question is, how much do I buy? 1 gallon or the 32oz? i can't find volume specs on final gear oil maintenance chart....
 
I used Lucas 80W90 Hypoid Gear oil in my final drive.
It only takes a few ounces so I got the 32 oz. bottle.
http://www.autozone.com/greases-and...y-duty-gear-oil-sae-80w-90-32-oz-/693858_0_0/
But any GL-4, GL-5 or GL-6 80W90 Hypoid gear oil will work fine.

I've been using Shell Rotella T 15w40 (non synthetic, JASO MA rated) Heavy Duty Oil in my 2000 Vmax since about 2002 and it works great.
http://rotella.shell.com/products/tpl-pro.html
The Rotella T5 is a synthetic blend and is NOT JASO MA rated for use in motorcycles with a wet clutch so I would NOT use it.
There is a LOT of good info about using Heavy Duty Oil in a motorcycle here:
http://v4musclebike.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14933


As for Fork Oil I used 10 wt. Maxima Racing Fork Fluid (not oil) when I installed my Progressive fork springs.
http://www.maximausa.com/product/racing-fork-fluid/
I weigh about 180-185 lbs and I'm happy with it.
Synthetic ATF is supposed to be equivalent to around 7-8 wt.
A lot of heavier guys prefer 15 wt fork fluid though.


And Here are alternatives for the Canisiter type filter used on the 1985-1995 Vmaxes:
AUTO-TUNE E5203
BIG A 92219
BIG A 96931
CANADIAN TIRE 27-5503-2
CARQUEST 85219
CARQUEST 89931
CARQUEST 89933
CHAMP P305
CHAMP P7002
DORCY 21-8050
EMGO 10-28500
FRAM CH6002
HASTINGS LF572
LUBER-FINER P7002
NAPA 1219
NAPA 4931
NAPA 4933
PUROLATOR ML26802
WARNER P7002
WIX 24931
WIX 24933
WIX 51219
YAMAHA 1J7-13440-91
YAMAHA 1J7-13441-10
 
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