K&N Filters?

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goddam

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i have just got a set of 4 pods and 2 have holes in the top ? as any got any idea what your supposed to do with these holes and what jets and needles i need any help will be very much appriciated:punk:
 
I think if you look on here you can find the Dynojet instructions for what jets you need, be aware Dynojet sizes are not Mikuni sizes! The CV throttle slides' needles are different too, Sean Morley should have them. [email protected]

The holes are for tubing for the breather ass'y.
 
If your pulling the factory airbox and running pods instead I do believe you would need the restrictors also. Morley has those and they are pretty cheap. I had to use them when I went to a custom filter lid.

On needles and jets you might also reflect on Morley and others for a jumping off point. The PO of my bike had the Kerker and the Dynajet stage 1 kit installed, the local shop set it up the jetting per Dynajet instructions. It was so rich it was stumbling and stunk of faw fuel, started hard and got dismal MPG. I had to drop several jet sizes to get it good and proper like she should be, I'm at 4000'. Even with the free flowing filter led and full Kerker exhaust I'm a couple steps leaner than factory jetting.
 
Casey, what are the restrictors? Do the go over the carb?
Any pics of them installed?
 
Casey, what are the restrictors? Do the go over the carb?
Any pics of them installed?

They go into the air vents tube holes on top of the carbs. Sean is the man to contact for all these type of needs. I've dynoed mid 120's with the air box and stock needles. With some adjustments of course. Putting a stage 7 kit in can kill your low end and mid range without a lot of careful trial and error tuning. Do read Mark Milnes threads on stage 7 set up.

The holes on top of the filters are for the crankcase breather system that comes with Sean's kit or the stage 7 setup. Any Gen 1 Vmax can take advantage of this.
 
They go into the air vents tube holes on top of the carbs. Sean is the man to contact for all these type of needs. I've dynoed mid 120's with the air box and stock needles. With some adjustments of course. Putting a stage 7 kit in can kill your low end and mid range without a lot of careful trial and error tuning. Do read Mark Milnes threads on stage 7 set up.

The holes on top of the filters are for the crankcase breather system that comes with Sean's kit or the stage 7 setup. Any Gen 1 Vmax can take advantage of this.

Thanks. I was just curious. The only thing I did to mine was removed muffler and put my hybrid Jardine on. I swear it "feels" like it has a smidgen more umf but definitely sounds better !:biglaugh:
 
If your pulling the factory airbox and running pods instead I do believe you would need the restrictors also. Morley has those and they are pretty cheap. I had to use them when I went to a custom filter lid.

On needles and jets you might also reflect on Morley and others for a jumping off point. The PO of my bike had the Kerker and the Dynajet stage 1 kit installed, the local shop set it up the jetting per Dynajet instructions. It was so rich it was stumbling and stunk of faw fuel, started hard and got dismal MPG. I had to drop several jet sizes to get it good and proper like she should be, I'm at 4000'. Even with the free flowing filter led and full Kerker exhaust I'm a couple steps leaner than factory jetting.

I think Sean has mentioned before the DJ Stage 1 is pretty-much useless. Go BIG or go-home. DJ Stage 7 or Morley's Muscle kit, and a full aftermarket exhaust to increase your HP. I have Stage 7 and kept my VBoost intact. I am at sea level, and am using 147.5 mains. UFO 4/1 full exhaust.
 
The stock air box and needles set up is hard to beat with some tweaking of the carbs air fuel mixture and raising the needles with washers. I ride with an elevation of 1800 feet and from all the messing around I did after getting it dynoed a few times I came to the conclusion that it was way too rich. Went back to the stock air box, with a stock air filter and 147 mikuni main jets with the holeshot 4 into 2 exhaust. The bike pulls hard in all gears with no flat spots.
Not sure if too many know this but the stock air box is tuned. After all the different combination I tried, I guess you could say I learned the hard way.
 
Hard to beat is right.....
The Yamaha engineers did a really good job of tuning that box to take advantage of the resonant intake pulses to kind of 'supercharge' the midrange to get rid of flat spots.
I tuned the heck out of my bike changing PAJ1, Pilot fuel jets, PAJ2, springs, polished slides, changing main jets, and adjusting float levels. My bike was running like a beast for years now.
I had just a minor airbox mod. Just recently I put another stock cover on my airbox along with the 'Y.' So all stock airbox, just for shits to see how it ran.
Amazing is all I can say. The bike ran sooooooooo good before, but putting the stock airbox back together like factor, filled in the tiny spots where I was missing something..... and made my bike feel like I picked up missing ft/lbs in the midrange. No loss of top end either.
I've gained new respect for the airbox and its ability to take advantage of the resonant intake pulses to jam more air in and fill in the midrange torque curve.

*the only thing I miss is the throaty sound coming up at me from the top cover when riding and cranking on her hard. Yep, it's quieter now. But I know that's because the airbox is now taking advantage of that 'noise' and turning it into something more useful. Those 'noise' pulses are now being used to resonate into the carbs and boost the engine instead of being wasted as noise to make my ears happy.

Vinnie
 
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I've tried to inform people before. If you aren't putting a full system on the bike then stick with the stock airbox. MAYBE raise the "y" section up 3/16" at the most. Or, get a jet kit like we offer.
 

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Yep, I agree with you 1000%! The exhaust would change the entire original breathing design of the engine.
Stock exhaust will work best with the stock intake system designed to take advantage of the resonant airbox design. But change the exhaust and the stock design would need to change, and hence the stock airbox may now become a restriction and the resonant design may not work the same anymore.

Great link here and a better explanation than I could ever think of about airbox resonance. Whenever someone comments to me about the intake of some bike looking too small in the airbox, I'll have to show them this video. I think a lot of people assume that the bike breathes all at once and constantly and they say; 4 big carbs breathing through such a small intake area in the box. But they don't realize that they engine is not breathing in all at once. And all 4 carbs are not breathing all at once. These resonant pulses are where the airbox design comes in;
 
Yep, I agree with you 1000%! The exhaust would change the entire original breathing design of the engine.
Stock exhaust will work best with the stock intake system designed to take advantage of the resonant airbox design. But change the exhaust and the stock design would need to change, and hence the stock airbox may now become a restriction and the resonant design may not work the same anymore.

Great link here and a better explanation than I could ever think of about airbox resonance. Whenever someone comments to me about the intake of some bike looking too small in the airbox, I'll have to show them this video. I think a lot of people assume that the bike breathes all at once and constantly and they say; 4 big carbs breathing through such a small intake area in the box. But they don't realize that they engine is not breathing in all at once. And all 4 carbs are not breathing all at once. These resonant pulses are where the airbox design comes in;
 
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