New 1/4 time

Went to the track last night.
Heard rumors of this; back to back runs.
By the time I picked up my time slip I was immediately back on the staging line. In a matter of 30 min, I completed 9 passes.
My bike never had a chance to cool down.

This time around I took off my windshield and saddle bags. 2 gallons of fuel. Riding weight 220lbs.

Best time:
R/T........ .415
60'........ 1.887
300'...... 5.001
1/8th..... 7.669
MPH...... 92.90
1000'.... 9.990

ET......... 11.999
MPH....... 111.77

There were a few miss shifts in my runs. Seems that I was using my highway pegs as a way to hold the hell on. On thing I noticed, is if I shift harder; don't rev match, my MPH is higher. So shifting is now a priority.

One question to you vets about launching. Had a friend watching. Said I was catwalking it for about 30'. Never did I feel it go on for that long. It would jump, and I would feel that the front tire lifted, but not for no more than 10'.

One more question pertaining to my miss shifts. One of my miss shifts landed me in 10.5K. Nothing destructive came of this. So my question is, do the valves float at that RPM? Am I more susceptible to spun bearings than bent valves?

ETA: Also managed to do 9.0@150 . Yea, guy gave me the wrong time slip.

The valves don't really "float" much on these. You'll just exceed the rod limits. First thing to happen normally is worn small ends (with the wrist pin) which caused excess slop and a light knocking/tapping noise. Then eventually the crankshaft rod bearing can give you but that's usually when run hard cold from our experience.

Funny you mention knock. I don't have any knock.
I'm overdue for checking my valve lash; 20K, already at 21.7K .

So the valves aren't hydraulic, their not pushrod, or direct drive. They are simply set back into the head via valve springs?

Falaholic said:

Funny you mention knock. I don't have any knock.
I'm overdue for checking my valve lash; 20K, already at 21.7K .

So the valves aren't hydraulic, their not pushrod, or direct drive. They are simply set back into the head via valve springs?

Click to expand...

If I remember right, its at 26000, but I waited until 32000 the first time. No issues.

Overhead cam. Shim and bucket valve actuation. Cam lobe pushes shim, shim actuated valve. Check the how to section for valve adjustment. Nice writeup from Naughty G with lots of photos.

Sean has a valve adjustment kit floating around with the tools and and an assortment of shims to make life easy.

Note on valve adjustment, and for those with the original '85 owners manual can ring in here... but I believe that Yamaha upped the first valve adjustment to a higher mileage than that of later models, such as my '06.
Don't know why? Print error? Or is it that Yamaha noted the Vmax valve train was more durable than they expected?
Who knows?

liptoss said:

Note on valve adjustment, and for those with the original '85 owners manual can ring in here... but I believe that Yamaha upped the first valve adjustment to a higher mileage than that of later models, such as my '06.
Don't know why? Print error? Or is it that Yamaha noted the Vmax valve train was more durable than they expected?
Who knows?

Click to expand...

Yep, another reason '85 owners know that theirs are more powerful, reliable, faster, better looking, more original, quicker, longer lasting, more sought after, can I say more? Yes but my fingers are getting tired-you know what I'm saying. God forbid you bought a RED '85 model.

blaxmax said:

Yep, another reason '85 owners know that theirs are more powerful, reliable, faster, better looking, more original, quicker, longer lasting, more sought after, can I say more? Yes but my fingers are getting tired-you know what I'm saying. God forbid you bought a RED '85 model.

Click to expand...

I took the carbs off a red 85 and made my 89 faster. Might be the stage 7 kit a little. Too bad the engine was toasted beyond repair. I still have the rolling chassis, but without the matching engine?

A little :rofl_200: