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Not sure why you want a '90, the 1993+ had better brakes and larger dia front fork downtubes, though I believe the '90+ was the better ignition box & crank sensor.
1990-2007 Same Electronics (ECU's last better but pickup coils fail more often).
1985-1992 Have the Same Forks (and Crappy Brakes though we can fix that).
I loved the dark blue on the 1990's (really more of an almost black with blue metal flake). Haven't seen a low mile one in a really long time. I've got a few years available around that one but not that specific year. About any year could be made to look similar with some paint work.
1985-1992 Have the Same Forks (and Crappy Brakes though we can fix that).
I loved the dark blue on the 1990's (really more of an almost black with blue metal flake). Haven't seen a low mile one in a really long time. I've got a few years available around that one but not that specific year. About any year could be made to look similar with some paint work.
When the Duesenberg brothers introduced hydraulic brakes on their automobiles in the 1920's, they immediately enjoyed a competitive advantage over the other grand prix cars of the day.
Ettore Bugatti, whose cars had been enjoying a successful career on the Grand Prix circuit, was suddenly at a significant disadvantage, and he struggled to reconcile why his cars were no-longer, "the finest."
Bugatti disdainfully commented about the Duesenberg's braking innovation, in oblique fashion, saying, "I build my cars to go, not to stop!"
The Bugatti Chiron, named after their Grand Prix driver who was racing them shortly after the Duesenberg brothers began using hydraulic brakes.
An 8.0-liter sixteen-cylinder engine utilizes four turbos to make 1500 hp and 1180 lb-ft of torque for what will surely be epic acceleration; Bugatti claims a top speed of 261 mph. A seven-speed automatic routes that power through all four wheels. If you have to ask, you can’t afford it—expect a price of around $2.6 million when it goes on sale.
I wonder if the Bugatti Chiron's mechanical engineers agree with you? :confused2:
Ettore Bugatti, whose cars had been enjoying a successful career on the Grand Prix circuit, was suddenly at a significant disadvantage, and he struggled to reconcile why his cars were no-longer, "the finest."
Bugatti disdainfully commented about the Duesenberg's braking innovation, in oblique fashion, saying, "I build my cars to go, not to stop!"
The Bugatti Chiron, named after their Grand Prix driver who was racing them shortly after the Duesenberg brothers began using hydraulic brakes.
An 8.0-liter sixteen-cylinder engine utilizes four turbos to make 1500 hp and 1180 lb-ft of torque for what will surely be epic acceleration; Bugatti claims a top speed of 261 mph. A seven-speed automatic routes that power through all four wheels. If you have to ask, you can’t afford it—expect a price of around $2.6 million when it goes on sale.
I wonder if the Bugatti Chiron's mechanical engineers agree with you? :confused2:
Rollie
Well-Known Member
Looks good, but looks like you have a lot of add ons.
Rollie
Well-Known Member
Good eye....
I found a 90 vmax but my problem is the miles, its a nice bike but i'm just stuck on getting something under 12000 miles. It has almost 20000. So i'm picky but i'm wondering if i should just wait it out or buy this one. I'm not in a hurry.
20K miles is not a lot of miles for a VMax....or any bike for that matter.
12K on a 1990 is a bike that sat a lot....not always the best thing for a motor vehicle.
I personally go much more by condition than mileage. If you look close (sometimes there is no need to because it's obvious from 10 feet away) you can tell how a bike has been cared for. A well taken care of Vmax could conceivably go 100K miles without a major repair.
So my advice would be to buy one that looks like it's been respected as the fine piece of machinery that it is, and taken care of. Don't worry much about the mileage.
They don't even start making peak power until they have 50-60k miles on them!
Well it has sat for 15 years but he got it out of storage and had it recently serviced and carbs tuned.
If it's in good condition cosmetically the only thing you may have to address will be dried up seals. In all honesty the earlier rubber is better then the later rubber and doesn't dry out and crack as easily.
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
I would rather have a bike with 20000 miles on it, instead of 2000. When I bought my 07 in Dec of 11, it had 26000 on it. Now it has 49000.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
The guy wants $3300 for a bike that has been sitting 15 years?
Unless he already got it up and running and you can verify it operates perfectly, that price is far from reasonable.
Otherwise, I'd expect you need to clean carbs, replace tires, batteries, clutch fluid, brake fluid, then cross your fingers and hope none of the carb rubber is junk, the brake master works, the clutch master works, and the slave works.
You could easily spend $800 getting it back on the road.
Unless he already got it up and running and you can verify it operates perfectly, that price is far from reasonable.
Otherwise, I'd expect you need to clean carbs, replace tires, batteries, clutch fluid, brake fluid, then cross your fingers and hope none of the carb rubber is junk, the brake master works, the clutch master works, and the slave works.
You could easily spend $800 getting it back on the road.
tothemax93
Well-Known Member
Might be a little traveling, but heres a 1990 in the Rochester NY area.
https://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/5864565143.html
https://rochester.craigslist.org/mcy/5864565143.html
He spent 1600 on synching the carbs and brake stuff after he got it out of storage.
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
I'm not looking to discourage you in any way but, I'd want to know what he spent $1600 on. Ask for receipts. $1600 is a lot to spend but who knows how far it goes at certain repair shops.
As noted, there are a lot of parts that are in question when a bike sits for extended periods of time.
Fuel system (gas tank, fuel lines, carbs, diaphragms, O-rings, jet block gaskets.....)
Tires
Seals in both master cylinders and slave
All fluids
Brake lines
Engine gaskets (oil leaks)
If its in great shape with no issues, I wouldn't be concerned about the price.
I'm just suggesting that you look things over carefully so you don't pay a premium price for an older bike that needs money put into it to be 100%'
Good Luck.
