100% Stock gen 1 on the dyno

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ConnerK

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Ran my '92 Vmax for the first time, most likely the bikes first time too. Lol.
I am 100% stock with a dirty air filter, a weak battery, and the bike had not fully warmed up yet. The dyno confirmed my suspicions about the bike running rich, so I've got a good starting point for the work to come.

Also shout out to Traumahawk who was just shy of that magical 120hp!!

uploadfromtaptalk1441945835034.jpg
Incase the photo turns out bad:
Run 1: 101.80℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 94.97hp
Run 2: 102.01℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 101.90hp
Run 3: 102.11℉, 28.55 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 104.64hp
Run 4: 102.35℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 22%, Max Power 107.48hp

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The last one is in the ballpark for a stone-stock ride. New plugs, air filter, synched carbs, a strong battery, and I bet you pick up several more HP to break 110. Maybe some fiddling w/the main jets to lean it out a bit...Morley's Muscle or a Dynojet Stage 7, or a Factory Pro, but you need an aftermarket exhaust complete to make the jet kits pay off to their best.
 
Thanks a lot Conner. I had fun.....and we will have to do it again. I've been busy this morning.....or else I would've posted mine as well.



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Here is mine.....best hp was 119.6. With more runs I might have broken into the 120's.....but I have a dyno run set up tomorrow at the same place that I usually do it.
 

Attachments

  • Dyno 8.10.15.pdf
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Just got home from work and pulled the filter out.... Definitely going to have to sync the carbs. Left side is running so rich that I'm getting fuel spray into the air box. [emoji15]

Edit: Just checked battery. At idle holds 13.45V as throttle is increased voltage decreases. Once off battery is losing charge at about .01V per second.. time to swap batteries.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk
 
Just got home from work and pulled the filter out.... Definitely going to have to sync the carbs. Left side is running so rich that I'm getting fuel spray into the air box. [emoji15]

Edit: Just checked battery. At idle holds 13.45V as throttle is increased voltage decreases. Once off battery is losing charge at about .01V per second.. time to swap batteries.
Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

Can't lose with this one----tell them it's for a vmax
http://www.apexbattery.com/ub1220-12v-22ah-battery.html
 
Always good to start with a fresh battery but I wouldn't assume that is the cause of your charging problem. I'd look into your rectifier/regulator, and it's connection to the stator. A very common problem area on the bikes.
 
Ran my '92 Vmax for the first time, most likely the bikes first time too. Lol.
I am 100% stock with a dirty air filter, a weak battery, and the bike had not fully warmed up yet. The dyno confirmed my suspicions about the bike running rich, so I've got a good starting point for the work to come.

Also shout out to Traumahawk who was just shy of that magical 120hp!!

View attachment 50691
Incase the photo turns out bad:
Run 1: 101.80℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 94.97hp
Run 2: 102.01℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 101.90hp
Run 3: 102.11℉, 28.55 in-Hg, Humidity 23%, Max Power 104.64hp
Run 4: 102.35℉, 28.56 in-Hg, Humidity 22%, Max Power 107.48hp

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

How many miles on your 92? I had a stock bike with delkivic slip ons, which are supposed to get zero power increase, on my 2000 with 23,000 miles on it and got 118 hp and 121 hp at thunder one year. Can't vouch for the accuracy of the dyno. I'm told with more miles the engine makes more power. Nice job Tramahawk.
 
How many miles on your 92? I had a stock bike with delkivic slip ons, which are supposed to get zero power increase, on my 2000 with 23,000 miles on it and got 118 hp and 121 hp at thunder one year. Can't vouch for the accuracy of the dyno. I'm told with more miles the engine makes more power. Nice job Tramahawk.

7300 miles. And no I'm not missing any numbers. Lol.
That's interesting that the power would increase as miles increased. But if that is true then maybe Yamaha should start making motors for everyone!!

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Yes, there are different trains of thought on that. Low tension rings reduce friction and great for an N/A engine. BUT, then there are other rings that overlap each other to eliminate the area of the small gap (Total Seal is one brand) and they are good for engines that create a lot of combustion pressure (supercharged/turbo) to keep the pressure in the chamber.

The OEM gen 1 cylinder walls are so hard that even with almost 100k miles on them they still show cross hatch marks. It takes a very long time to have these rings "wear out". The gen 2 are listed as ceramic lined (though really I believe them to be Nikasil - Nickel Silicon Carbide - coated) and last quite a long time too.
 
Yes, there are different trains of thought on that. Low tension rings reduce friction and great for an N/A engine. BUT, then there are other rings that overlap each other to eliminate the area of the small gap (Total Seal is one brand) and they are good for engines that create a lot of combustion pressure (supercharged/turbo) to keep the pressure in the chamber.

The OEM gen 1 cylinder walls are so hard that even with almost 100k miles on them they still show cross hatch marks. It takes a very long time to have these rings "wear out". The gen 2 are listed as ceramic lined (though really I believe them to be Nikasil - Nickel Silicon Carbide - coated) and last quite a long time too.

I guess the ole adage is true then... " Learn something new everyday":yelrotflmao:

I have so much to learn about this bike. :th_12:
 

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