130,000 miles... Repairs and replacements.

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Bill Seward

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Joined
Mar 24, 2007
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Location
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First off, I 've gone through numerous tires and brake pads. Too many to mention here..
Let's start at the beginning. Dates and mileages are approximate from the early years.

Oil changed about every 2000 miles. Started with GTX, now using Rotella. Filter every time.

Late in 1985 muflers replaced warranty. Rusted.
About 30,000 miles did a clutch job and replaced slave cylinder.
Checked valves, and did steering head bearings 36,000 miles.
Stator replaced at 50,000. Went through a few R/R units over the years till I did the MOSFET mod this season.
3 or 4 batteries. Presently using a Triumph Rocket 3 battery in a modded battery box.
30,000 miles replaced carb diaphragms with OEM.
45,000 miles replaced seat with Corbin.
60,000 miles checked valves. All OK.
60,000 miles replaced front header pipes with used. The welds broke and pipes rattled badly.
60,000 miles replaced front rotors with used. Was pulling a trailer, and wanted better brakes.
80,000 miles replaced rear wheel bearings. Worn out.
115,000 miles replaced front wheel bearings and fork seals.
120,000 miles replaced front brake lines with stainless steel, and added speed bleeders. Progressive front fork springs. 3rd or 4th fork oil change at this time..
A few air filters over the years..
2 speedometer cables 27 years apart.
Vboost controller box at 120,000.. It had been non functional for a few years.

Did some cosmetic upgrades the last few years.. Kuryakyn footpegs front and rear, new paint this year, Delkevic exhaust this year..

There might be a few more things, if I think of them, I'll add to the list..
So how many of you weren't even born when I bought this bike on April 18, 1985??
 
Great info Bill, good thing you didn't waste a whole lot of $ reading what the manual said to do.:worthy:
 
When you got that bike I really wanted one. Nice job on service and history. Its nice to know it takes that little to get some mileage. How does it perform compared to new after all the use?
 
Man, April 18, 1985... i was 3 yrs old on the verge of turning 4. I didnt even know what a Vmax was until the early 2000's, lol.
 
As I turned from a young crazy 35 year old to a somewhat more sedate 65 year old, my definition of 'crazy fast' seems to have changed. It still runs like a bat out of hell when it hits the boost.... I'd love to put it on the dyno some time at Thunder, but with all the miles on the motor, I'd be afraid of blowing it up.. I'd bet it still puts out close to 110 or 115..
 
Good info, Bill.
Since your bike is an '85, with that many miles clocked, and NO TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS - can I assume that the bike has never been abused, as in thrashed thru the gears or raced ?
Also, the valves were "O.K." at 60k. Had they required any adjustment during the earlier check? And now at 130k, the valve train has another 70k without being checked, and the engine still runs well - presumably the clearances are still good.
My conclusion is that your engine has been operated under conditions well below what Yamaha had designed the bike for(5000 - 9000 rpm "powerband"), and consequently will have a Venture-like lonnnnng life!
My bike is now at 63k, not even broken in compared to yours. The valves were checked at 38k., with only one exhaust valve requiring a small adjustment.
I was going to check the valves again soon, but based on your info, I'm deferring for awhile yet. Wheel bearings had also been a concern,(based on mileage only) but it appears that I should be good to let that slide by as well.
Thanks again!:eusa_dance:
 
I was like 12 when the Vmax came out. Only Vmax and the 84' 750 Nighhawk( black and blue) caught my eyes. I was loving dirtbikes and trying to find a way to get a Yamaha IT or a good 4 wheeler... Glad you bike has been good to you. I let mine sit too much this summer due to the heat..When I was younger and in AZ I would ride even when it was over 100*.. Not now..lol
 
I was 14 when the Vmax first came out....and just starting to become a gear head.

Sent from my SCH-R890 using Tapatalk
 
Questions raised on how the bike was ridden... Safely, but fast. I never saw the need to beat the living hell out of it, but used the power wisely. I did a lot of touring with the machine, even pulling a trailer on a few camping trips over a period of a few years around 1990.

I was anal about engine oil changes, and did the diff oil every 10,000 miles approximately.

I put a 80/100 watt headlight into the bike just about the time I bought it, and honest to God, it lasted almost 80,000 miles. I guess a weak charging system is good for something!
 
Questions raised on how the bike was ridden... Safely, but fast. I never saw the need to beat the living hell out of it, but used the power wisely. I did a lot of touring with the machine, even pulling a trailer on a few camping trips over a period of a few years around 1990.

I was anal about engine oil changes, and did the diff oil every 10,000 miles approximately.

I put a 80/100 watt headlight into the bike just about the time I bought it, and honest to God, it lasted almost 80,000 miles. I guess a weak charging system is good for something!

I bought my 99 with 8,000 miles on it & sold it with 99,000 still running like a top & I beat the shit out of it. LOL It was at the dragstrip on a regular basis. I wished I would have kept up with the next owner to see how long it went for.
 
Congrats with your bike. My has nearly 18000 miles and had already so much problems as yours during all those miles. Unfortunately I didn't make the first 17000 miles.

May I ask what is a R/R unit?
 
With my 22 year old son riding the Max now, I think the engine is going to be doing a bit more time in the "Boost Zone"! He's probably done more WOT riding in 3 years on it than I did in 30!
 
okay , thanks. I wonder than if it is my next problem because I suspect I have a hot start problem with an almost one year old battery.
you changed it many times because it starts to give wrong voltage to the battery? or it just broke?
 
okay , thanks. I wonder than if it is my next problem because I suspect I have a hot start problem with an almost one year old battery.
you changed it many times because it starts to give wrong voltage to the battery? or it just broke?

Overnight voltage without a charger connected all night should be 12.5 volt minimum. That's assuming it was in a normal state of charge the day before, either on a charger or ridden. When I get a new battery I put it on the charger for about 1 hour at 10 amps then install it.
 
The early regulators grounded through the frame. Only one wire (positive charge) went to the battery through the wiring harness and the 'crimp'.. I believe corrosion at the point the regulator grounded to the frame and where the footpeg bracket bolted to the frame caused resistance which hastened the demise of the unit. Later regulators have a dedicated ground wire. Most people directly wire the red and black wires to the battery. This eliminates the crimp from the charge circuit.. The best way to upgrade your system is to install a MOSFET voltage regulator. These are more efficient and run cooler. All you need to know about installing this upgrade is available on this forum. My Max went from a puny 12.7 volt charge with problematic starting to 14.6 volts at idle to redline.

While you are at it, check out the COPS mod. You can mount the regulator where the rear coils used to be..
 
Thanks for the info. I don't want to bring here on this thread my hot starting problem, since I first want to dig more into it. but anyway that gives me an idea of how to have a better charging system although mine is on the edge of the 12.6 v .
The cops thing is something that I have been reading about here and I really want to do it as soon as I have the bike running good and some extra money for the parts, but from what it does, it's really something that I want to have in a near future.
 
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