1st gear selection issue

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lookdonkey

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Hey all, I’ve been to look at a VMAX today with a view to buying.
It has sat for a while as the man can’t use it due to health reasons and it’s too heavy for him now.
As I went to pull away it killed the engine and couldn’t engage until we went up to 2nd and back to 1st then no problems.
Opinions please?
Possible clutch plates sticking as they’ve been inactive?
Or something more sinister?
TIA
 

lookdonkey

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Was the sidestand down ? That will kill the engine when you shift into 1st. Just a guess.
No it was definitely up and we checked that the pin was disengaged although this doesn’t mean it wasn’t faulty internally.
just making sure I check all options
 

MaxMidnight

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The way you describe the problem (As I went to pull away) that seems to suggest that you had selected a gear or did it cut out as you selected first?
After you had selected second then first engaged OK and continued to do so?

If it was sticking clutch plates then you would normally hear some graunching of the dogs as they try to engage or the gear goes in with a clunk and the bike jumps forward as the plates separate.

If memory serves well (you judge) I seem to recall that if the side stand is down or the switch stuck then the motor cuts out as soon as you pull in the clutch?

There is an issue that can affect bikes with the early selector segment (#6) that allowed the pins (#'s 7 & 13) to come out which would cause selection issues.

Shift.jpg

This part was updated but I don't recall what year this happened. IMO this is probably the worst that will be wrong and is a relatively simple job to undertake.
 

lookdonkey

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The way you describe the problem (As I went to pull away) that seems to suggest that you had selected a gear or did it cut out as you selected first?
After you had selected second then first engaged OK and continued to do so?

If it was sticking clutch plates then you would normally hear some graunching of the dogs as they try to engage or the gear goes in with a clunk and the bike jumps forward as the plates separate.

If memory serves well (you judge) I seem to recall that if the side stand is down or the switch stuck then the motor cuts out as soon as you pull in the clutch?

There is an issue that can affect bikes with the early selector segment (#6) that allowed the pins (#'s 7 & 13) to come out which would cause selection issues.

View attachment 76821

This part was updated but I don't recall what year this happened. IMO this is probably the worst that will be wrong and is a relatively simple job to undertake.
hi max, sorry for the vague descr.
it actually clunked and stopped as I selected 1st gear and cleared after the 2nd into 1st selection.
I did buy the bike and it didn’t do it at all when I went to collect it so it does seem that it was a sticky plate issue.

thank you very much for your input though as it’s great to have opinions and knowledge for other possible issues going forward.
and who’s to say the issue is actually resolved still.
 

MaxMidnight

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That's good to hear and from what you say it does sound like the plates just needed freeing up.

I probably don't need to suggest this (but I will 🙄) doing a full service will ensure that you know that it has been done to your standard. A check sheet is here.

Hope you enjoy your Max and should you need any help there's plenty of knowledgeable folk here happy to help.
 

lookdonkey

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That's good to hear and from what you say it does sound like the plates just needed freeing up.

I probably don't need to suggest this (but I will 🙄) doing a full service will ensure that you know that it has been done to your standard. A check sheet is here.

Hope you enjoy your Max and should you need any help there's plenty of knowledgeable folk here happy to help.
yeah the first things are putting it into the shop for a full service and check of everything before I start running it.
a little bit of TLC prevents sitting beside the road waiting to be recovered.
 

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Fire-medic

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This is a great place to start for a new Vmax owner to learn much information about the maintenance and operation of your bike. RaWarrior did a great job in answering questions that many Vmax owners may have about their bike.

What wheel is on the rear of the bike? It looks like it might be a YZF style hollow-spoke rim mated to the Vmax hub. Is it a 17 inch by 5 and 1/2 inch? Or is it 6 in?
 
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lookdonkey

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This is a great place to start for a new Vmax owner to learn much information about the maintenance and operation of your bike. RaWarrior did a great job in answering questions that many Vmax owners may have about their bike.

What wheel is on the rear of the bike? It looks like it might be a YZF style hollow-spoke rim mated to the Vmax hub. Is it a 17 inch by 5 and 1/2 inch? Or is it 6 in?
it is the 17” but not sure if 5.5 or 6, I’ll have to find out myself for curiosity. I rode a standard VMAX and my one on the same day and the difference is phenomenal.
I absolutely hated the standard one and nearly didn’t go to see the 2nd one. Glad I did
 

MaxMidnight

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yeah the first things are putting it into the shop for a full service and check of everything before I start running it.
It's your choice but if not already done so have a look at the service check sheet; there isn't much in there that can't be done at home and most of the items are checks. Get a Haynes manual and away you go.

The only thing you may wish to out source is the carb balance but even that is pretty simple.

Not only will you save a whole lot of money (which can be invested in to 'safety related' items*) but you will learn and get to know the bike.
Any bits you are not sure of just ask.

* Safety related is anything you may want for the bike and as it is classified a 'safety', no-one can deny the expenditure.
 

Fire-medic

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I stand in solidarity with my long-time acquaintance MaxMidnight. Learn what the specs are, check things out, and follow the instructions in the factory service manual, or as MM suggested, the Haynes manual. VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net) This needs to be saved onto your computer, and used as-needed. The factory manual takes some getting used-to, as annual updates for service and covering the few changes made to the VMax over the 22 years it was made, are to be found at the beginning of the manual. These on their title pages are called Supplements, and there are a few of them. Spend some time getting used-to the layout of the service manual, and check at the back, where there are handy tables and charts. The time you spend getting acquainted with the factory manual will directly benefit your wallet!

Yes, glad you rode two back to back, I'm of the opinion the #1 thing improving the Gen. 1 VMax is a switch to radials, especially at higher speeds.

The size of the rim should be cast-into the rim somewhere.

Changing the engine oil, the coolant, the oil the forks, brake fluids and the clutch master cyl fluid and the final drive oil are all things you can do on your own. I suggest a reverse-bleed for the clutch and brake master cyl bleeds. It can be a bit-messy, (wipe up and off any spilled brake fluid before it damages your paint) but in my opinion, without having a $$ pressure brake bleeder, it's the quickest way to getting a firm lever back after bleeding your brakes, or the hydraulic clutch. (51) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) In this thread is how-to make a simple, inexpensive tool for reverse-bleeding, and the procedure for getting your hydraulics in the brakes and clutch back to full operational condition, quickly and easily.

I'd suggest at-least checking the final drive oil, if you don't change it immediately. The fork oil level only leaks-out if your fork oil seals are leaking. Have you checked your front fork pressure? It should be between ~5-15 psi, unless the prior owner swapped-in some aftermarket fork springs like Progressive Suspension, which do not need to be pressurized. Be VERY careful about using an air hose to do this, as the volume of each downtube is very-small, and it only takes a second of pressure to fill them completely, and people who have been careless about how-much air they use have on-occasion blown-out their fork seals.
 
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