I stand in solidarity with my long-time acquaintance
MaxMidnight. Learn what the specs are, check things out, and follow the instructions in the factory service manual, or as
MM suggested, the Haynes manual.
VMX12- Service-Manual.pdf (vmoa.net) This needs to be saved onto your computer, and used as-needed. The factory manual takes some getting used-to, as annual updates for service and covering the few changes made to the VMax over the 22 years it was made, are to be found at the beginning of the manual. These on their title pages are called
Supplements, and there are a few of them. Spend some time getting used-to the layout of the service manual, and check at the back, where there are handy tables and charts. The time you spend getting acquainted with the factory manual will directly benefit your wallet!
Yes, glad you rode two back to back, I'm of the opinion
the #1 thing improving the Gen. 1 VMax is a switch to radials, especially at higher speeds.
The size of the rim should be cast-into the rim somewhere.
Changing the engine oil, the coolant, the oil the forks, brake fluids and the clutch master cyl fluid and the final drive oil are all things you can do on your own. I suggest a reverse-bleed for the clutch and brake master cyl bleeds. It can be a bit-messy, (wipe up and off any spilled brake fluid before it damages your paint) but in my opinion, without having a $$ pressure brake bleeder, it's the quickest way to getting a firm lever back after bleeding your brakes, or the hydraulic clutch.
(51) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) In this thread is how-to make a simple, inexpensive tool for reverse-bleeding, and the procedure for getting your hydraulics in the brakes and clutch back to full operational condition, quickly and easily.
I'd suggest at-least checking the final drive oil, if you don't change it immediately. The fork oil level only leaks-out if your fork oil seals are leaking. Have you checked your front fork pressure? It should be between ~5-15 psi, unless the prior owner swapped-in some aftermarket fork springs like Progressive Suspension, which do not need to be pressurized. Be VERY careful about using an air hose to do this, as the volume of each downtube is very-small, and it only takes
a second of pressure to fill them completely, and people who have been careless about how-much air they use have on-occasion blown-out their fork seals.