1st Post - Barn Find 85 VMAX

[SnipeJDM]

I figured this might be a pretty good first post and look forward to many more and learning as well.

A little history: I've always had and rode sport bikes owning several in the past. I sold the last one about 2 years ago.

A guy I work with owns a 1985 VMax and I happen to remember and mentioned it to him a month or so ago. I asked him where it was to which he replied "in a syrup shed down at my late fathers house." It was last ridden 15 years ago where he rode it down to the syrup shed and parked. It hasn't seen daylight since. I asked him what he was going to do with it and if he wasn't interested in selling it. He said that he was not interested in selling it, but just come get it. FREE. He said he would never do anything with it and it would rot away down there.

With all that being said, fast forward to this morning. Hooked up the trailer and headed to his house. We pulled it out of the syrup shed which was full of insulation. Unfortunately the rats had found the insulation and had made a home in the motorcycle. It had pecans and insulation packed in every crevice. It is rough around the edges and has plenty of peeling engine paint and rust. Nothing that can't be fixed or replaced though and I look forward to doing it.

First thing will be to check out the gas tank and see if it's rusty or not. I'm sure it is and will need to be cleaned out. I would love some suggestions on how to do that and what works.

Second will be to remove the front fairing and highway pegs. If anyone want's them, let me know. I'm certain they won't go back on the bike. The front fairing appears to be made by "Tracy".

Third will be to get a battery, check all wiring, general maint, and then see if it will fire.

I would greatly appreciate any and all advice, links, etc you could provide on what I need to do to get it road worthy again.

Daniel

 

[Tex85]

Nice find! You definitely have some work ahead of you to get it back to tip top shape but for the price of free that leaves you with funds to get it to where it needs to be. Congrats and definitely take and post pics throughout the restoration process since it is always fun to watch these bikes be given a second chance.

As for the fairing it looks like something off of a Kawasaki, definitely gives that Vmax a different spin.

Lastly, what are the last 4 digits for the VIN?

 

[Warp12]

Nice!! Can you post the VIN? Interested to see how early the bike is! I'm still trying to find the VIN information on the '85 my dad bought new, back then. I'd love to know where that bike ended up.

 

[SnipeJDM]

Just went and checked. Last four is 0426. I remember the owner saying it was one of the first ones in the south when he got it from it's original owner. I think he acquired it sometime in 86 from the original owner.

 

[Warp12]

Awesome find, man! I will restore an '85 one of these days.

 

[rusty]

Just went and checked. Last four is 0426. .

Your a lucky man Snipe, how many miles on the speedo:ummm:

 

[dannymax]

Wicked cool find Snipe, thanks for sharing! unk:

Might just be my old eyes but are the scoops & sidecovers chrome?

 

[Traumahawk]

Congrats and welcome to the forum.

 

[twistedmax]

Welcome , very good find !, if those little mouse basterds got your wiring harness I have a couple good ones .

 

[SnipeJDM]

Wicked cool find Snipe, thanks for sharing! unk:

Might just be my old eyes but are the scoops & sidecovers chrome?

Yes they are. The previous owner had an interesting take on the bike, hence the fairing. He took these to a local chrome shop in the 80's and had them plated. It's all peeling off now.

What color were these in 85? Any ideas on how to safely strip the remainder of the chrome?

 

[dannymax]

Yes they are. The previous owner had an interesting take on the bike, hence the fairing. He took these to a local chrome shop in the 80's and had them plated. It's all peeling off now.

What color were these in 85? Any ideas on how to safely strip the remainder of the chrome?

Hmmm, not sure about stripping the chrome but if I remember right (had an '85 back in the day) the scoops were solid silver.

 

[dannymax]

Oh well, I tried. Pretty sure the scoops & side covers are the same, a dull or brushed silver.

 

[Rusty McNeil]

Awesome find and welcome to the forum. You'll find all you need here.

I would suggest perusing the carb and electrical sections and that'll get you started.

 

[SledHead]

Congratulations Snipe, what a neat find! While the Vmax is no match for sportbike handling, it's not nearly the pig, some make it out to be. You will be amazed by the power of these bikes. Make sure you know where it's pointed when you whack open the throttle.

Thank you for sharing this experience, it's a great story.

 

[CrackerRican]

Very cool of your friend giving you the vmax. It's gonna be fun bringing her back to life. There is a wealth of knowledge on this forum to help you every step of the way & welcome to the forum. Looking forward to seeing each step.

 

[SnipeJDM]

Your a lucky man Snipe, how many miles on the speedo:ummm:

Looks like 19,441 on the odo.

 

[SnipeJDM]

Congratulations Snipe, what a neat find! While the Vmax is no match for sportbike handling, it's not nearly the pig, some make it out to be. You will be amazed by the power of these bikes. Make sure you know where it's pointed when you whack open the throttle.

Thank you for sharing this experience, it's a great story.

Thanks for the advice. I know it won't be anything near sportbike handling, but that will be fine. I love the mountain trips but I'm sure this will give me some thrill.

Funny story is that after I sold my last sportbike, which was a 06 GSXR 1000, my wife and I talked about getting a new VMax. She more than I. She really likes the looks and being able to ride comfortably....well more comfortable than the sportbike back seat. Now she's excited about this vintage max.

 

[Fire-medic]

The chrome shop can remove the chrome just like they applied the chrome, by electrolysis. I dunno if they generally do that, because of contaminants that may end-up in their solution, but you can ask. Also, if you were going to re-chrome the pieces, they would need to perform that step to prepare the surface for the new chrome.

As to the gas tank-you can buy a new one for not that-much $. If you think-about the coating process and trying to get it done, and the issues you can have (constantly-clogged carbs, multiple carb disassemblies) you can see the wisdom of biting the bullet and splurging on a new tank. Hey it was free-save yourself the headaches and get a new one. Try Ron Ayres Motorsports for online fiche and ordering.

If you must try coating your tank, you might try electrolysis to remove rust. There are a couple threads on it, your tank may come-clean if your deterioration isn't too-far along. Use the 'search' function for the threads. Also look on the web for additional info. POR-15 is supposed to be a good lining, better than CREEM, which is usually-sold in bike shops who carry such things. Be sure to follow directions exactly! POR-15 can be bought from the Eastwood Company. Web search for it.

Your two masters and the clutch slave cylinder, and all three disc brake calipers all will need disassembly, and probably rebuilding. For the price, I recommend buying a new brake master cylinder, they aren't that-expensive compared to the cost of a rebuild kit, and how-much is your safety worth? The calipers can usually just be disassembled, the corrosion cleaned-off the caliper body and the pistons w/some wet-or-dry sandpaper, and/or a wire wheel. I recommend you buy a Dremel Tool if you don't already own one. They are invaluable for cleaning the square-cut recesses in the caliper bodies, using a small cut-off disc to cut slices in fittings you cannot persuade to come-apart, like the master cylinder lids, and plenty of other cleaning tasks you are going to face and polishing too. The piston square-rubber O-rings rarely go-bad, you can probably clean them, give them a good inspection, and re-use them.

If your fork seals leaked due to roached-out downtubes pitted w/rust, they probably fouled your brake pads w/fork oil. Replace the pads, HH rated pads are a good way to go. Bad forktubes need to be replaced, Replacements from Forking by Frank (web search time) are probably $300/pair, maybe more, shipped. I suggest looking for a good used front end from a 1993+, which will probably be about the same price as buying new tubes and will be larger-dia tubes. More info below. Save the old stuff if you decide to sell later if someone is interested in the OEM equipment.

The CV carb diaphragms are probably in-need of replacement, from being so-old, disassemble them and see. here, you may find a ViceGrip straight jaw plier can help break-loose your screws. Consider replacing them w/allen-head screws you can source at the local Lowe's or Home Depot, or a good neighborhood store, metric fasteners, of-course.

I'd say, all the electrical connections need to be opened and viewed for bad crimps or deteriorated wire strands to the crimps. And since there were rats, chewed-upon wiring. If you need to replace lots of wires, consider a used harness, you already got an offer of one on here. And the battery, I suggest the Odyssey PC680 or a lithium ion if you want big cranking amps, expensive though.

The regulator/rectifier may need replacement, see about going to the MOSFET type instead of the stocker. They run cooler and apparently are subject to less issues w/time.

I'd say, the 1st order of business is get it running, and then undertake the overhaul of its systems and components.

For my $$, the best thing you can do to a 'Max for handling and curing the weave/wobble, or whatever other issues people complain-about, is to go to radial tires, which will require a new/used rear wheel, try a 17 or 18" Kosman, and a pair of sensibly-sized good radials, like front 110 and rear 170. Checking wheel bearings, steering head bearings, and the swingarm pivots are mandatory. Then you can go-into the front forks and consider replacement of the rear shocks, Progressive Suspension 412's (rear shocks) are cost-effective, they have more-expensive ones if you want to spring for them. The front forks, Race Tech or Progressive Suspension replacement springs are what most people get. Different valving from Race Tech or RICOR is an idea. If you have to replace the downtubes because of corrosion, consider upgrading to a used 1993+ downtube/slider & triple trees. They are 3 mm larger in diameter, and the switch will be much less expensive compared to an upside-down fork conversion, probably 1/4 the price. The USD fork will probably run you $1K+.

Well, there are lots of more-specific issues you're gonna post about as you get into it. My advice, get it running first, to see if it's worth doing the other stuff. Even if you had to install a used engine, you can still get a functional bike for probably $2K.

Take pics-we love pics-and document what you do. Keep a spreadsheet of costs, so you have an idea of what your outlay is, and a notebook of work done, parts bought, etc. You have lots of used parts resources on here, just post what you need and members will make you offers.

You have an early bike. Have fun, but have a plan.

 

[davesax36]

Pretty everything you need to know can be found on here. Post questions, and you'll get fast and accurate responses. If you want some stock bars, I'm about to pull mine off this week. Mine are yours for shipping. It's gonna be a crazy journey, but well worth it.

 

[SnipeJDM]

The chrome shop can remove the chrome just like they applied the chrome, by electrolysis. I dunno if they generally do that, because of contaminants that may end-up in their solution, but you can ask. Also, if you were going to re-chrome the pieces, they would need to perform that step to prepare the surface for the new chrome.

As to the gas tank-you can buy a new one for not that-much $. If you think-about the coating process and trying to get it done, and the issues you can have (constantly-clogged carbs, multiple carb disassemblies) you can see the wisdom of biting the bullet and splurging on a new tank. Hey it was free-save yourself the headaches and get a new one. Try Ron Ayres Motorsports for online fiche and ordering.

If you must try coating your tank, you might try electrolysis to remove rust. There are a couple threads on it, your tank may come-clean if your deterioration isn't too-far along. Use the 'search' function for the threads. Also look on the web for additional info. POR-15 is supposed to be a good lining, better than CREEM, which is usually-sold in bike shops who carry such things. Be sure to follow directions exactly! POR-15 can be bought from the Eastwood Company. Web search for it.

Your two masters and the clutch slave cylinder, and all three disc brake calipers all will need disassembly, and probably rebuilding. For the price, I recommend buying a new brake master cylinder, they aren't that-expensive compared to the cost of a rebuild kit, and how-much is your safety worth? The calipers can usually just be disassembled, the corrosion cleaned-off the caliper body and the pistons w/some wet-or-dry sandpaper, and/or a wire wheel. I recommend you buy a Dremel Tool if you don't already own one. They are invaluable for cleaning the square-cut recesses in the caliper bodies, using a small cut-off disc to cut slices in fittings you cannot persuade to come-apart, like the master cylinder lids, and plenty of other cleaning tasks you are going to face and polishing too. The piston square-rubber O-rings rarely go-bad, you can probably clean them, give them a good inspection, and re-use them.

If your fork seals leaked due to roached-out downtubes pitted w/rust, they probably fouled your brake pads w/fork oil. Replace the pads, HH rated pads are a good way to go. Bad forktubes need to be replaced, Replacements from Forking by Frank (web search time) are probably $300/pair, maybe more, shipped. I suggest looking for a good used front end from a 1993+, which will probably be about the same price as buying new tubes and will be larger-dia tubes. More info below. Save the old stuff if you decide to sell later if someone is interested in the OEM equipment.

The CV carb diaphragms are probably in-need of replacement, from being so-old, disassemble them and see. here, you may find a ViceGrip straight jaw plier can help break-loose your screws. Consider replacing them w/allen-head screws you can source at the local Lowe's or Home Depot, or a good neighborhood store, metric fasteners, of-course.

I'd say, all the electrical connections need to be opened and viewed for bad crimps or deteriorated wire strands to the crimps. And since there were rats, chewed-upon wiring. If you need to replace lots of wires, consider a used harness, you already got an offer of one on here. And the battery, I suggest the Odyssey PC680 or a lithium ion if you want big cranking amps, expensive though.

The regulator/rectifier may need replacement, see about going to the MOSFET type instead of the stocker. They run cooler and apparently are subject to less issues w/time.

I'd say, the 1st order of business is get it running, and then undertake the overhaul of its systems and components.

For my $$, the best thing you can do to a 'Max for handling and curing the weave/wobble, or whatever other issues people complain-about, is to go to radial tires, which will require a new/used rear wheel, try a 17 or 18" Kosman, and a pair of sensibly-sized good radials, like front 110 and rear 170. Checking wheel bearings, steering head bearings, and the swingarm pivots are mandatory. Then you can go-into the front forks and consider replacement of the rear shocks, Progressive Suspension 412's (rear shocks) are cost-effective, they have more-expensive ones if you want to spring for them. The front forks, Race Tech or Progressive Suspension replacement springs are what most people get. Different valving from Race Tech or RICOR is an idea. If you have to replace the downtubes because of corrosion, consider upgrading to a used 1993+ downtube/slider & triple trees. They are 3 mm larger in diameter, and the switch will be much less expensive compared to an upside-down fork conversion, probably 1/4 the price. The USD fork will probably run you $1K+.

Well, there are lots of more-specific issues you're gonna post about as you get into it. My advice, get it running first, to see if it's worth doing the other stuff. Even if you had to install a used engine, you can still get a functional bike for probably $2K.

Take pics-we love pics-and document what you do. Keep a spreadsheet of costs, so you have an idea of what your outlay is, and a notebook of work done, parts bought, etc. You have lots of used parts resources on here, just post what you need and members will make you offers.

You have an early bike. Have fun, but have a plan.

Thank you very much for all the advice. I have a plan, I just don't know how long it will take me to get it all done. I pride myself on doing quality great looking work on a budget and will enjoy doing the same on this motorbike.

As far as pictures and documentation, is there a PROJECT sub-forum on here that will allow me to start a "project" thread? That's probably the best way keep all my progress and pictures in one spot to show everyone on here. If there isn't one, is there a possibility of making one?