Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
- VMax Year
- 2000
1st Gen V-Max 2000 VMAX RESURRECTION
- Thread starter Sniffbooger
- Start date
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Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
Since I purchased the bike in Feb of 2021 in non-running condition, I've changed the oil and filter a couple times already, changed the fuel filter, cleaned out the fuel pump best I could, flushed the cooling system with vinegar, distilled water, then refilled with coolant...I've replaced the headlight with a HID light, replaced the blinkers which aren't so big and dorky looking as the OEM ones, replaced the mirrors with new ones, bought the new smoked mini windscreen and the custom Vmax windscreen frame, took off the stock rear fender (it never rains here in SoCal) and replaced the tail light with flashing LED for now. I also bought a good used OEM red tail light, since the clear one already on the bike was yellow and crappy looking. I found a good front fender online and installed it. I'm currently sanding the tank cover and I'll paint both fenders at the same time and re-install it before rainy season. The bike needs tires soon, I probably shouldn't be riding it like this... I'll probably get the recommended EBC HH brake pads, and new fork seals too. The V-boost is wired for 3k operation, but I don't really care for it. I currently have it disconnected, in the closed position. I would rather have it set back to stock 6k but I haven't figured exactly how to wire it back to stock yet. Cant wait for it to work properly. I read pages and pages about manual Vboost cable controls, T-boost, and electric switches. But I think the engineers got it right the first time and 6k is where mine is going to stay. I'm reading about it here in the forums and hopefully that will be a simple task to re-wire it stock.
I've also changed the spark plugs, replaced the battery with an AGM, replaced the throttle cables, carb boots, v-boost boots, and I've had the carbs off at least 10 times getting them clean, changing jets, gaskets, replacing stripped screws and various other parts, and trying to set the floats correctly. I have collected a large assortment of jets of various sizes for tinkering. I've got the 150 mains in now, and pilot fuel jet is changed up to a size 40 but it seems to run a little too rich at low rpms... it has the Dale Walker Holeshot dual exhaust and it was lean popping quite a bit even with 4-5 turns out on the mixture screws, so I thought a richer slow jet would help...but I think I need to clean out the carbs better.....I'm going to put the 37.5's back in soon...and maybe even change the main jet to the smaller 147.5 see how that works at high end just for kicks. I'm at sea level, and I'm only getting average 22mpg right now with the 40 pilot jets and 150 mains with stock needles. This has to improve! I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, just did the best I could with carb spray and air nozzle to clean the carbs out after disassembly. I've even done the 'Shotgun' blast a couple times too. I purchased a spare set of 4 good used carbs off ebay for $250 and they have saved me a bunch. I actually cracked one of the carb bodies trying to drill out one of the stuck fuel mixture screws...curse
... but I replaced it with my spare and all good now.
Any tips or comments are appreciated.
Jacob
I've also changed the spark plugs, replaced the battery with an AGM, replaced the throttle cables, carb boots, v-boost boots, and I've had the carbs off at least 10 times getting them clean, changing jets, gaskets, replacing stripped screws and various other parts, and trying to set the floats correctly. I have collected a large assortment of jets of various sizes for tinkering. I've got the 150 mains in now, and pilot fuel jet is changed up to a size 40 but it seems to run a little too rich at low rpms... it has the Dale Walker Holeshot dual exhaust and it was lean popping quite a bit even with 4-5 turns out on the mixture screws, so I thought a richer slow jet would help...but I think I need to clean out the carbs better.....I'm going to put the 37.5's back in soon...and maybe even change the main jet to the smaller 147.5 see how that works at high end just for kicks. I'm at sea level, and I'm only getting average 22mpg right now with the 40 pilot jets and 150 mains with stock needles. This has to improve! I don't have an ultrasonic cleaner, just did the best I could with carb spray and air nozzle to clean the carbs out after disassembly. I've even done the 'Shotgun' blast a couple times too. I purchased a spare set of 4 good used carbs off ebay for $250 and they have saved me a bunch. I actually cracked one of the carb bodies trying to drill out one of the stuck fuel mixture screws...curse
... but I replaced it with my spare and all good now. Any tips or comments are appreciated.
Jacob
If there's a next-time:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/s...screws-ideas-aaaaaaaa-help.50336/#post-504535
I bet you'll like the 147.5 mains. I use the stock pilot jets and can get the air bleed screw set several turns out OK. I assume you've balanced the carbs?
22 mpg is pretty-low, I read many members claiming 40 mpg, but I think I ride harder than them. I usually get ~33 mpg and I see the VBoost w/regularity, and the red oil light winking at me.
The Shinkos aren't a long-lasting tire but they're pretty-sticky and OK on price.
If you plan on keeping the bike, as much as you seem to like it, you should consider a change to radials, which requires at least a modded rear wheel. You can fit a radial on the OEM front, but it's not optimal width of a rim, it should be an inch wider for the stock tire size, but a radial. Where radials really work well on a VMax is at higher speeds and the curves. There is much-more handling precision evident. Don't run two different brand radials! And don't run a radial rear and a bias-ply front!
Pic 1 is a bolt-up 5-1/2" X 18" wheel I can have made. It uses a new rim blank, machined to accept the VMax spline center.
Pic 2 is a 5-1/2" X 17" weld-up, using a used donor rim on a OEM rear splined center section. You can see the difference in width. Fit a radial and it's a much-improved ride, for either.
The 17" is shorter in height, it's like changing the final drive, less top-end. However, how often do you hit the 149 mph claimed for the stock bike? There are more tires available in 17" because that's what sportbikes use.
The 18" is taller than the 17" and therefore you sacrifice less top-end. However there is less of a rubber selection.
From your list of work, it's getting the care it needs to work well.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/s...screws-ideas-aaaaaaaa-help.50336/#post-504535
I bet you'll like the 147.5 mains. I use the stock pilot jets and can get the air bleed screw set several turns out OK. I assume you've balanced the carbs?
22 mpg is pretty-low, I read many members claiming 40 mpg, but I think I ride harder than them. I usually get ~33 mpg and I see the VBoost w/regularity, and the red oil light winking at me.
The Shinkos aren't a long-lasting tire but they're pretty-sticky and OK on price.
If you plan on keeping the bike, as much as you seem to like it, you should consider a change to radials, which requires at least a modded rear wheel. You can fit a radial on the OEM front, but it's not optimal width of a rim, it should be an inch wider for the stock tire size, but a radial. Where radials really work well on a VMax is at higher speeds and the curves. There is much-more handling precision evident. Don't run two different brand radials! And don't run a radial rear and a bias-ply front!
Pic 1 is a bolt-up 5-1/2" X 18" wheel I can have made. It uses a new rim blank, machined to accept the VMax spline center.
Pic 2 is a 5-1/2" X 17" weld-up, using a used donor rim on a OEM rear splined center section. You can see the difference in width. Fit a radial and it's a much-improved ride, for either.
The 17" is shorter in height, it's like changing the final drive, less top-end. However, how often do you hit the 149 mph claimed for the stock bike? There are more tires available in 17" because that's what sportbikes use.
The 18" is taller than the 17" and therefore you sacrifice less top-end. However there is less of a rubber selection.
From your list of work, it's getting the care it needs to work well.
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Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
Nice looking wheel! It's. Similar to my stock wheel design...I'm reading a lot about tires lately...Shinkos, Metzler's, etc...it's one of the next things on my list. Michelin Commander II is probably my favorite choice for now. Any experience with those? Appears to be a well made bias ply that handles well and lasts a long time, usually 15-20k miles if you don't thrash it... according to all the reviews ...I'm not sure I want to spend 1k+ for a radial setup at this time but I'll definitely keep those nice wheels in mind!
Also, I did synch the carbs with Carbtune a few times, at different rpms just for kicks, I tried synch at 3k and currently 1100rpm and plan to do it again after changing my jets. I've got the 40 pilot jets and they are set at 1/8 turn out and they are very finicky...carb #3 actually runs better with the mixture screw all the way closed...must be a float level issue...the 40 jets seem harder to adjust with the mixture screws compared to the 37.5s because they are letting higher volume of fuel through the circuit. My target is 40 mpg. My Vboost is not even hooked up currently.
Cheers Jacob
I don't think I've ever-gotten much-more than 4K mi. out of a bias-ply rear tire on my VMax'es, and I buy premium tires. I don't do smoky burn-outs and don't run it at the dragstrip. I'm blaming my throttle-hand.
I don't have Michelins on my bike, but I've used Michelins on other literbikes and have had positive experiences.
http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdfDo a wet measurement on the float level and see what you get. Chap. 5 p.9 (5-9) or p. 230 in the .pdf file. The chapter also has VBoost info.
The air bleed screw should be able to start and run the bike at 2-3 turns out and adjust from there if the jet is sized properly. As you said size # 37.5 is stock.
I don't have Michelins on my bike, but I've used Michelins on other literbikes and have had positive experiences.
http://vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdfDo a wet measurement on the float level and see what you get. Chap. 5 p.9 (5-9) or p. 230 in the .pdf file. The chapter also has VBoost info.
The air bleed screw should be able to start and run the bike at 2-3 turns out and adjust from there if the jet is sized properly. As you said size # 37.5 is stock.
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Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
I got the V-boost re--wired back to factory configuration and it works at 6000 rpm like it should...I took apart the carbs and put the 147.5 Mikuni main jets in it, and I put the 37.5 pilot jets back in. I just ordered some OEM style jet block gaskets (K&L kit) because the Chinese rubber ones I used were expanding and plugging some small holes under the jet block... but I have it back together for now, until the new parts arrive...(I also ordered some nice stainless allen head bolts for the diaphragm covers and the carb bowls...)
It now runs mediocre, makes a few lean popping noises after shift, with the idle mixture screws set about 4 turns out, but its difficult to start when cold. It misses and stumbles at low rpms, but runs strong if you open up the throttle. I have a K&N filter and Holeshot dual exhaust. Its probably still too lean. Maybe I should shim the stock needles. Where can I get the washers? I think Radio Shack went out of business around here a couple years ago... Cylinder #2 is not firing about half the time, mostly at cruise and idle. It seems to fire up when I give it some throttle. I checked the spark and it seems fine. Probably a jet block gasket issue, or a plugged jet. I'm going to clean it really good when I get the new jet block gaskets in.
What a pain! I've had these carbs off so many times I can do the entire procedure in about 5 minutes now from airbox removal to opening up the bowls. The brand new rubber carb boots are worn in like a mommy of 5 kids. I can pop the carbs on and off and not even feel it. :")
but I have it back together for now, until the new parts arrive...(I also ordered some nice stainless allen head bolts for the diaphragm covers and the carb bowls...) It now runs mediocre, makes a few lean popping noises after shift, with the idle mixture screws set about 4 turns out, but its difficult to start when cold. It misses and stumbles at low rpms, but runs strong if you open up the throttle. I have a K&N filter and Holeshot dual exhaust. Its probably still too lean. Maybe I should shim the stock needles. Where can I get the washers? I think Radio Shack went out of business around here a couple years ago... Cylinder #2 is not firing about half the time, mostly at cruise and idle. It seems to fire up when I give it some throttle. I checked the spark and it seems fine. Probably a jet block gasket issue, or a plugged jet. I'm going to clean it really good when I get the new jet block gaskets in.
What a pain! I've had these carbs off so many times I can do the entire procedure in about 5 minutes now from airbox removal to opening up the bowls. The brand new rubber carb boots are worn in like a mommy of 5 kids. I can pop the carbs on and off and not even feel it. :")
Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
Yesterday I put the new K&L jet block gaskets in and also replaced the emulsion tubes around the needles with the Chinese replacement tubes in my cheapo fleabay kit. I noticed mine were a little worn from the needles. Big mistake! After getting it all back together and synched, it would idle but it wouldn't rev up at all...it would just choke and die! I turned out the idle mixture screws until it finally started to run slightly better, to about 6 full turns out ..and it still won't rev past about 3k...so I looked around the net for some new ones.... apparently these are not available OEM anywhere ...Mr. Morley only has used ones too....hmmm...guess I'll have to fork over bucks for aftermarket replacements....I ordered some new High Dispersion Jet emulsion tubes from Factory Pro...total was $145 set of 4 including shipping....for now I'll have to put my OEM tubes back in and just ride it that way. Don't use the Chinese Brass!
Attachments
Ron Ares Yamaha has 'em, $28 apiece. Part #34
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456a5f8700209bc79313a/carburetor
Nozzle, Main
26H-14941-90-00
Your Price: $28.00
Did you consider drilling-out the aftermarket cross-hole to the same dimension as the OEM, and then chamfer the opening? And checking the long hole for how it compares to the OEM?
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500456a5f8700209bc79313a/carburetor
Nozzle, Main
26H-14941-90-00
Your Price: $28.00
Did you consider drilling-out the aftermarket cross-hole to the same dimension as the OEM, and then chamfer the opening? And checking the long hole for how it compares to the OEM?
Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
I don't really wanna mess with drilling them out because the holes where the needles go in are too tight also and the needles get stuck... Just overall not precision machine work from China. I probably can't do much better with a hand drill lol....I've got the Factory Pro emulsion tubes on the way...
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Sniffbooger
Well-Known Member
This morning I pulled the carbs again and replaced all the Chinese emulsion tubes with the worn OEM used ones that I had before. I also noticed the brand new K&L jet block gaskets (Made in Taiwan) are rubber like the Chinese ones, and the ethanol in the gasoline appears to have stretched them out and they do not fit good anymore after one night of soaking in the gasoline...now they are too loose fitting and warped.. well at least the holes are cut better than the Chinese ones.. if I had to do it again I would just get the factory ones from Yamaha that hopefully are not rubber or at least they are made of something that is more resistant to the ethanol in the gasoline...
Also I shimmed the stock needles about 1.5mm while I had the carbs open. Put everything back together and it runs good except for a couple carburetors that have no adjustability in the idle screw. I attribute this to the worn out emotion tubes causing a rich idle.
I also replaced the outer diaphragm covers with stainless hex bolts to match the carb bowl hex bolts. So much better!
Also I shimmed the stock needles about 1.5mm while I had the carbs open. Put everything back together and it runs good except for a couple carburetors that have no adjustability in the idle screw. I attribute this to the worn out emotion tubes causing a rich idle.
I also replaced the outer diaphragm covers with stainless hex bolts to match the carb bowl hex bolts. So much better!
