2001 VMAX: Pick-up Coil or Ignitor?? Need verification on Ohms read...

[CALI-gula]

A couple of days ago, I went out to my 2001 VMAX, it started, but then within a couple of minutes died. It's mostly all stock save for the SuperTrapp exhaust; it started great, got to the end of the driveway to let it warm a bit as usual.

After running about a minute there was a significant kick of backfire through the carbs like it's never done - ever - ran fine for some 20 seconds or so after that, then went completely dead. It would not restart at all. I've had this bike for 7 years now, and have never had an issue like this or with the ignition system - at all.

First, the suspected issues: It's either the Pick-up Coil, or the TCI/ignitor.

1. There is no spark at any of the 4 plugs and coils.
2. It was running fine, with plenty of power and no inconsistency or stumbling prior to this; I ride it EVERY day (well, except for the last 3 days) so any prior issue of running bad would have been instantly noticed.
3. There were never any troubles with it advancing the timing or prior backfire.
4. It won't restart at all; some people with pick-up coil issues have mentioned it would re-start then cut out once it got hot. I have an absolute no-start/no spark situation.

What I've done thus far that has me puzzled: I've checked the Ohms between the Orange/Black wires on the connector to the Pick-up coil, and I'm getting a read of 295 Ohms in the resistance of the orange and black wires. When first connected, it starts high, at around 500 Ohms then drops to settle at around the 295 Ohms and stays there.

But here I've got a dilemma; I'm in Los Angeles - it's about 95 Fahrenheit degrees outside right now (33 Celsius) and the inside of my garage is at about 100 F degrees right now (38 C).


With that in mind: The resistance between the orange and black wires should be about 126Ω +-10% at 20C (68F), and I understand that resistance goes up with temperature.

So does 295 Ohms seem logical to be the likely proportionate Ohms as a proper read in jumping from 20C/68F to 38C/100F ??

I need to confirm the above and be sure the Pick-up coil is good or bad before suspecting the Ignitor; so if the Pick-up coil were bad, would I get that high of a reading anyway at these temperatures, no read of Ohms, or something else entirely?

What other tests should I try on the Pick-up Coil and/or stator to be sure this is or is not the issue. I don't want to jump to the juggler of the Ignitor, not only due to the cost, but I hate wasting money by trial and error when I have the proper tools to be sure what it is not first.

ALSO: I already have the ignitor out for testing. Is there any kind of test I can perform on the Ignitor connector pins to see if that is the problem? (the shop manual give no information). As it likely operates at milivoltage, I don't want to start fiddling with it and go connecting my multimeter to it and improperly blow it out with too much voltage to any of the diodes/transistors, etc.

Here are the things I know it is NOT:

1. Fuel pump is working fine.
2. Battery is fine and giving more than enough power to kick it over and then some: was charged, was re-charged, and I also have an engine starter.
3. Carbs are not flooded.
4. It's not the kick-stand safety switch.
5. The four coils are all good.
6. All plugs are clean, properly gapped, and with good connections.
7. All other power/electrical components are working fine.
8. It does turn over and starter works fine; just no spark.
9. There were no prior indications of a charging issue at all, so I am sure the alternator is fine.
10. Ignition switch is fine.
11. I have the shop manual and appendix updates.
12. I have search the forum, internet, and have not found anyone having posted a relationship of their reads of Pick-up Coil Ohms at 100F/38C.

(Side note: these later VMAXes use a single pick-up coil (right?) so it's not the 5 pin connector as mentioned elsewhere or in the shop manual - as I discovered. I also know that the Shop manual that everyone has including me, is typically for the earlier models, and I know about the Orange-wire typographical error in the description concerning testing older pick-up coil connectors wherein it should have stated black - as the common.).


:confused2: Thanks in advance....

 

[alorio1]

Pick up coil must be bad with that kind of ohm reading, even with the engine up to normal operating temp you won't see that kind of reading. Usually when an ignitor box goes out you can put a plug in the plug cap ,ground it to the motor and turn the switch key on and off and it will spark. Get in touch with Sean Morley ([email protected]) he can fix you up. He has a loaner program where he will send both PU coil and ignitor box and which ever component is bad then naturarliy he would expect you to buy it from him. He may be a bit higher but you can't beat his support for the member's on the forum. Morley Muscle [email protected].........................

 

[PATMAX]

Will Sean send out parts to a first time
Poster?

 

[CALI-gula]

Pick up coil must be bad with that kind of ohm reading, even with the engine up to normal operating temp you won't see that kind of reading. Usually when an ignitor box goes out you can put a plug in the plug cap ,ground it to the motor and turn the switch key on and off and it will spark. Get in touch with Sean Morley ([email protected]) he can fix you up. He has a loaner program where he will send both PU coil and ignitor box and which ever component is bad then naturarliy he would expect you to buy it from him. He may be a bit higher but you can't beat his support for the member's on the forum. Morley Muscle [email protected].........................

Great, thank you. It confirms what I am already presuming; in the least, I will test it tonight after the ambient temperatures subside after sunset. However, I do think these elevated numbers present some extreme resistance even in the 100F degree setting.

Honestly I don't even know why I took the time to pull the ignitor out; prepping for the worst I guess in taking advantage of the time I did have this weekend so if that were it, I was a step ahead.

 

[alorio1]

Will Sean send out parts to a first time
Poster?

I really don't know how he would handle a first time poster, but he is a trusting type guy...........

 

[CALI-gula]

Will Sean send out parts to a first time
Poster?

First time? I guess that it looks that way. I've been on here since 2008 - I just never really had much to say. I had posted some spare parts for sale, and was looking for some parts about 5 years ago - obviously those threads were either closed or deleted - but really, it's only because my VMAX has been running so good for these past 7 years, I never really had any questions about it. So far, it has been the most reliable bike I've ever owned besides my 1973 Honda CB750-Four and my 1982 Virago 750 (which I later converted to a 920 engine).

Sooo... I've only be more of a reader than anything else.

:wink2:

 

[CALI-gula]

I forgot to ever post an update; it turned out to be the pick-up coil as I suspected. I pretty much had the answer, but appreciated the validation.

I found a used one on Ebay for $100, put it in, and the bike is running great, even better even than for the past several months leading up to the pick-up coil's total failure. It's now much more even and consistent. That coil had probably started going bad about 6 to 8 months prior to it dying, as I noticed it gained a more uneven idle throughout its entire operating range, and not as consistent and would seemingly "jump" at times. That doesn't sound logical I'm sure, as it should be an all or nothing thing with a pick-up, but that was definitely the case here.

.