600 mile Eng. Oil Change - Any suggestions besides Yamalube?

[riderboy1961]

I will have 600 miles on this Gen 2 after I ride this Sunday.

I have the owners Manual which states to use Yamalube brand Engine Oil and the Yamaha Geniune Shaft Drive Gear Oil.

Questions:
1) Yamalube Engine Oil... is this Dino Oil or some type of Synthetic? (the owners manual states to change the engine oil every 4,000 miles on the Yamalube, from now on)
2) can I use: Shell Rotella T6 - 15w40 Synthetic and if so, how many miles can the engine drive before the next oil change on this stuff?
3) I'll be using the Yamaha part # 9079E - SH001 - 00 Yamaha Geniune Shaft Drive Oil for the shaft drive.

*Any suggestions on any other Brands and Types/Synthetic or Semi Synthetic or Dino for the Engine Oil?

 

[Itgoes]

Can't go wrong with Mobil 1 4T https://tinyurl.com/y7g6emzd

That's what a lot of owners use and it's recommended by Gurued Gear.

My recommendation would be 2500 - 3000 miles in between engine oil, shaft oil every other engine oil change.

 

[riderboy1961]

Can't go wrong with Mobil 1 4T https://tinyurl.com/y7g6emzd

That's what a lot of owners use and it's recommended by Gurued Gear.

My recommendation would be 2500 - 3000 miles in between engine oil, shaft oil every other engine oil change.

Cool.
1) How many miles can we go on this Synthetic Engine Oil in our engines?

2) What Shaft Drive Oil do You Use itgoes?

3) will this Drive Shaft gear that is Synthetic oil (see below) be just as good as the Yamaha Synthetic drive shaft gear oil #9079E - SH001 - 00 ? (Less money and more fluid)
(see below)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mxo-44901

 

[Itgoes]

Cool.
1) How many miles can we go on this Synthetic Engine Oil in our engines?

2) What Shaft Drive Oil do You Use itgoes?

3) will this Drive Shaft gear that is Synthetic oil (see below) be just as good as the Yamaha Synthetic drive shaft gear oil #9079E - SH001 - 00 ? (Less money and more fluid)
(see below)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mxo-44901

The manual says every 4000 miles, I try not to go over 3000.

The Yamaha gear oil sates it has anti-foaming properties which is important for high speed operation to prevent cavitation. So that's all I ever use because I like to operate my VMax at high speeds.

I guess I would use another brand if it stated that it had anti-foaming properties on the label.

 

[riderboy1961]

I ended up putting Yamalube 10w40 in the engine as stated in the owners manual, mostly because it is still under factory warranty so why risk the warranty.
(The owners manual did Not specify Dino, Semi Synthetic or Full Synthetic Yamahlube so I assumed, per the owners manual, I needed to use the Dino Yamalube.)

1) How many miles should I ride on the Yamalube 10w40 dino oil before the next oil change"?
2) Does anyone know what Oil comes in the engine on the gen 2's "From The Factory? (dino, synthetic, 10w40, 20w50...?)

 

[why2kmax]

Ive used Mobil 1 4T 10/40 in everything Ive owned (mostly yamahas) No issues and UOAs always come back with good results.

 

[Pighuntingpuppy]

My opinion on oil is this....why cheap out on something so inexpensive? I run synthetic oils in all my vehicles with the exception of the new truck I got because I am doing the semi-synthetic route at the moment. My 1988 truck takes Castrol 5W50 at $12 a quart. The engine burns 1 quart every 2500-3500 depending on what I am doing. 6 quarts for it plus filter, makes it a $75 oil change. My 2004 Impala takes the 5W30 Castrol Dexos approved oil. This car has 225K on it, inside looks like I rebuilt it yesterday and the engine doesnt have the infamous tick they are known for. My 100K Virago runs the Castrol 10W40 Power 1 synthetic oil. This oil I usually had to order because no one ever really carried it. In my Gen 1 Vmax, I use the Yamalube. Even when I have the dealer change the oil, it comes to about $50.

And no....I am not pushing Castrol for those about to say something about it. Back in my youth working at a dealer, I forgot to tighten a drain bolt on an oil pan. Customer lost it. Drained the oil, kept driving for about 1 mile due to traffic and then pulled off. When I got the vehicle back, I put a new drain bolt in and added oil. Beat the hell out of the car to make sure if the engine was gonna grenade, it would grenade on me and not the customer. The engine survived and the car came back to me for 3 years for other maintenance. Why that story? This was when I worked at VW. The 1.8 Turbo engines they used in the early 2000s required full synthetic engine oil. Prior to this point in time, I was of the mindset of, "eh, its slippery, its good to go". After this, I began looking more seriously at synthetics. Since Castrol was the factory fill for VW at the time, I went with them. Castrol saved me from fronting a $10,000 engine on that car. This is why I use them today.

Moral of the story, use what feels good to you. The vast majority of engine oils out there, especially the common name brands are so similar today, they will all suit your needs. If you want to spend more on Amsoil, by all means. Its your investment and you can protect it however you deem it will serve you and your investment. If you want to protect your investment with gas station no name oil.....lol, well, thats your choice too. Viscosity in your location will be more of a factor than the name brand of your oil. Cant run a super thin oil at 6200 feet when temps in the summer will soar over 100. Same respect, you cant run a 20W50 in a cold weather state. You will never get the engine to turn over when its cold.

 

[bsbllctchr]

That's what a lot of owners use and it's recommended by Gurued Gear.

My recommendation would be 2500 - 3000 miles in between engine oil, shaft oil every other engine oil change.[/QUOTE]

So you are recommending to change the shaft oil every other oil change (the final drive oil) ? The owners manual say to do it every 16k mi

 

[Itgoes]

That's what I have done in the past. It may be slight overkill, but I rode my bike hard on the street and made occasional trips to the dragstrip.
It uses so little rear gear oil it's not a big deal IMO.

 

[C2protect]

I've owned an 85 Vmax before the legal age when I was 17. Back then Yamaha would not allow a minor to purchase or test one under 21 years old. I only got one because my dad got it and gave it to me. I rode it for 3 months before I took it it Kearney Nebraska Dragstrip and ran a 10.33 with it. Then to took it to Bandimere Dragstrip 4 months later and turned a 10.23 at 5280 ft altitude. That was a good time especially at altitude. It was good enough that Yamaha had me fill out a 20 page questionnaire to ask me all kinds of questions. Since it was a better time than Peewee Gleason turned on it during its intro days. This bike lasted for 165,000 miles and still ran low 10's. I changed the oil at 5-7,000 mile intervals, the gear oil 3 times the whole time I owned it.
My Gen II Vmax has 80,000 miles now and not one issue to think of. (other than tires) haha.
Bottom line sir...Don't fret over anything that says Yamaha or Vmax on it. They aren't built for the garage, they were built for the human speed freak.
In 1982 when the first prototype was tested. They TRIED to blow it up front the Japanese streets of stop and gos' to the German Autobahn running 1.5 quarts low of oil and yes,cruising at triple digit speeds for hours with extended fuel tanks on it. Allowing it to cruise for 200 miles before empty at 100+mph.
This is all knowledge I was privy to when Yamaha interviewed me.
Like the gentlemen stated, just watch the weight at altitude/temperatures and "they" won't fail you. They have the best valve train of any motorcycle manufacturer in the world.
So enjoy.

 

[riderboy1961]

Awesome Info!!!

1) "From the Factory NEW" (Japan, where they are built) does anyone know what Type Engine Oil comes in these Gen 2 engines?
(I would think they use Yamalube brand, correct?)
Dino?
Semi Synthetic?
Full Synthetic?

2) And... what engine oil Weight (10w30, 10w40, 10w50, 20w50?) does Yamaha install in the engine when brand new at Factory in Japan? (I assume Yamaha Factory Japan puts the exact same engine oil in All the Gen 2's, Every Year.)

 

[C2protect]

Factory oil is Yamalube 10w30. Only for break in. Depending on the temp and ground temp, you shouldn't even run lighter than 40w.

 

[TN_Max]

I run Rotella T6 in everything I own including the VMAX.

 

[dafish2]

T-6 here too, although I prefer to use the 15W-40 version vs the 5W-40.

I'd love to have a MA approved 15w-50 in it, just haven't look hard enough yet I guess.

 

[ShawnD]

Can't remember where I read about Mobil 1 75W90 gear oil but I used it in my last gen 2 without issue. Bottle doesn't mention anything regarding anti-foam but literature online says it has good resistance to foaming. I used Shell Rotella T4 (nonsynthetic) & T6 (synthetic) oil without problems either. My only complaint is that the T4 only comes in 15w40. I ride through winter & 10 weight would be more appropriate in those temps.

 

[Coastal Grey]

I use amsoil metric 10w 40
No issues at all

 

[rolynisa]

I have a Gen 2 60,000 plus miles have always used yamalube 10w40. No issues.

 

[2017VMax]

Did not see it mentioned, but if you go synthetic, do the dd clutch mod. The clutch is in with the oil.

 

[ShawnD]

Did not see it mentioned, but if you go synthetic, do the dd clutch mod. The clutch is in with the oil.

Synthetic oil alone doesn't warrant the clutch mod...performance mods do.

 

[Jerry Klay]

I was using Mobil 1 4T 10-40 racing oil. Switched to the same basic spec from Castrol. Shifts the same but I think the clutch feels better. Seems to just grab a bit better. But either are good.