redbaron13
Well-Known Member
Man I am going to laugh my but off when you get that thing running.....
96 sitting for 4 + years.
- Thread starter mjsinil
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MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Hmmm that should be worth seeing, will you post a video of it falling off?
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redbaron13
Well-Known Member
Sure will, man when I get a problem I will not let it go until I smell poop , hear breaking glass on instruments and all the blood drains from me little bitty 240 pound body.
redbaron13
Well-Known Member
Some guy did a full Gen 1 restoration, he posted it on line Yamaha Vmax 1200 restoration by Stephan Morris
Got some good photogs and info here. Sorry if this is already posted, ahhhhh....errrr somewhere.
Got some good photogs and info here. Sorry if this is already posted, ahhhhh....errrr somewhere.
Parminio
Well-Known Member
Agreed. That's must see TV.Hmmm that should be worth seeing, will you post a video of it falling off?
Yeah, that's one I bookmarked before, it could help people to deal w/their issues as they work on their own rides. Good descriptions, lotsa pics. A good one of-which to remind us.
I pulled the engine out yesterday. I saw some things that were concerning when I pulled the vboost off. Looks like the long bolts were put in the wrong spot, so I have oil leaking from 2 holes .... the tensioner for 2 & 4 was loose and the gaskets seem to be sealed with silicone...
desert_max
Well-Known Member
Uh oh. I can see FM wisely stroking his long beard already.
Parminio
Well-Known Member
And it's things like that Fire Medic and I were concerned about.
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Two of the inlet stub threads do go into oil passages (LH front and RH rear if memory serves well) so will leak if sealer isn't used on the thread.
Seems like more problems everywhere you look. Do you want a hand grenade or a functional & durable engine?
Functional and durable. A hand grenade between my legs doesn't sound very pleasing..
Well, you know what I recommend.
Don Garlits has a reputation of trying things others hadn't, and of being a very-good racer. You might-say, "he's the fastest man with half a foot." He lost his partial foot from an exploding clutch. Then he invented a scattershield. Better late than never. Now, they're required.
Just installed the heads and cam shafts. Everything is set correctly now. Found a few more issues. Striped tension screw on back head, new one ordered, that's where oil was leaking. Few other messed up screws. Should have top end back together next weekend.
Hopefully the prior butcher's work didn't extend to case-splitting. I've got my fingers-crossed that your work is gonna set things right.
What do the case covers look-like, left and right? Are they showing a sloppy-squeeze-out of excessive gasket sealant? If they did, I think I'd be tempted to remove the case covers, and to check for things like the clutch basket nut torque, the stator fastener torque, the star for the shifter drum, etc.
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I pulled the covers off and didn't see any excess sealant anywhere. Clutch basket looks okay, but I'm going to pull it and do a rebuild.
Are you going to replace the innermost half-width friction disc with a full-width one? I like the PCW heavy-duty clutch diaphragm spring, much-cheaper than the Barnett pressure plate, and it has a much-lighter pull than the double-disc (DD) two diaphragm springs installation. Do the clutch basket 'fingers' have any notchiness? Is the basket tight, not wobbly, on the shaft? That would be a good time to replace the star segment for the shift drum, if it needs it.
Looks like PCW Racing has upgraded their internet presence: PCW Racing Home Page They sell a kit with a new OEM clutch case cover gasket, new OEM Yamaha '+1 friction disc' set (to replace the half-width one) and the heavy-duty diaphragm spring, as a kit. Assuming your clutch basket is OK and the 'steelies' can get-by with a scuffing to break the glaze, you should be good to-go. In my experience, it's best to-call them, I did my shopping on that phone call, and my parts were quickly-delivered.
518 346 - 7203
Fax: 518 346 - 2817
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Thanks, if I pull it apart it'll get all new parts, upgrade if available. I'm not going to put old parts back together and hope they are good. From what I can tell the parts are not that expensive to upgrade.
MaxMidnight
Well-Known Member
Whilst it is worthwhile inspecting the clutch IMO if the motor is to remain in it's original state of tune the the OE clutch set-up works fine.
I would check the steels for any signs of overheating and flatness; if OK re-use them.
Same for the friction material; if it doesn't smell burnt it probably isn't.
The only time I'd replace the frictions is if they are near to the wear limit.
If you swap the half plate for a full you will notice that the gear change becomes more 'clunky'. Not really a problem but something to consider. Once again no benefit unless you are putting extra power through it.
Assuming the diaphragm spring is within spec then I would keep it.
I see no benefit for replacing parts that are functional, it is only your wallet that suffers.
Once you have the bike back togetherand running then should there be clutch issues it isn't a big job to rectify then.
I agree with MaxMidnight, a disassembly to check the parts in the clutch is all that you need to do as-far as the clutch goes. If everything is OK, re-install components and get 'er back-to the road (or the tarmac/macadam, as MaxMidnight may-say). The OEM clutch is a robust unit, and it commonly gives good service. There really isn't any need to buy/install the Barnett pressure plate or to-do the DD double-diaphragm spring installation, unless you're going to be frequently drag racing it and subjecting it to lots of abuse. The replacement of the half-width friction disc will, as MM said, make it a bit-less forgiving of ham-fisted shifts, it was an easy way for Yamaha to provide a slipper-clutch effect to ease poor synchronization on downshifts. I'd stay-away from the aftermarket friction discs. The OEM are fine, even-in a power boosted engine/drivetrain. Removing the basket allows a check of the star gear on the shift drum.
