98 V max won't crank

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mmslash

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So I took the battery out of my 98 v-max last fall, charged it and put it in my heated basement on a wood block. Took it out last week, charged it at 2 amps overnight and threw it in my v max. Went to start it, lights came on, but no vboost sound and nothing else happened. Made sure it was in neutral, side stand up and clutch handle pulled in. Still nothing when hitting the start button, lights do go off and oil and gas lights come on. So using a screwdriver I short across the relay between the two coils, and it turns over normally and I can get it to start and idle just fine - but that relay is clicking like mad. Still in neutral with the side stand up. Still will not crank but at least now, I hear the vboost running like it should but starter button will not engage starter. I checked the relay wires with a test light and the two wires coming in from a connector have power on both sides as does the direct wire from the starter but, obviously, not the other side (or the starter would turn over). None of these change when hitting the starter button. I checked all of my fuses and all are good. I did nothing else to the bike other that remove and re-install battery and checked all of the connections around the two coils that you have to remove so as to remove the battery. I'm thinking it's that starter relay but I'm worried about the clicking noise I hear when the cycle is running. Any other ideas?
 
The fuel pump clicks audibly when the bike is running. I'll click much more often if one of it's little rubber diaphrams has become dislodged inside making it difficult for it to maintain proper fuel pressure. Are you sure you are not hearing it click, rather than the starter relay?

Welcome to the forum, by the way.
 
The fuel pump clicks audibly when the bike is running. I'll click much more often if one of it's little rubber diaphrams has become dislodged inside making it difficult for it to maintain proper fuel pressure. Are you sure you are not hearing it click, rather than the starter relay?

Welcome to the forum, by the way.

Thanks. No, I can actually hear and feel the clicking from the relay, which is kind of wierd. I've had the seat off many times while running in the past and don't recall hearing this before.
 
So following the service manual, I grounded the blue/white wire coming off the relay. The starter turns without using the start button. Disconnecting the lead too the starter and hitting the start button does nothing, no click. So I measure resistance between that blue/white wire and the terminal that connects to the battery and that is infinity. So I'm thinking the relay is bad. Any input?
 
Brown wire....


HA. I BEAT MILES!!!!

Anyway. Welcome to the forum. The brown wire is what feeds the ignition switch (I think). It can cause all sorts of problems if the ignition switch or the contacts in the housing are corroded. The brown wire is with the red and blue ones coming out of the bottom of the ignition tube.

Or I'm totally wrong.
 
Brown wire....


HA. I BEAT MILES!!!!
Groovy. Dave trying to "channel his inner Miles". I'm flattered.....but not worthy.

Anyway, it appears on the wiring diagram that the "on"position of the starter switch simply grounds the blue/white wire, providing a path for the red/white to energize the starter relay.
Have you checked this at the starter switch itself, by disconnecting, and checking b/w continuity to ground , with the switch pressed?
Cheers!
 
Just to pin-point the clicking part, I would take a 3'or so section of hose and use it like a stethescope and snoop around for the actual source.
 
Thanks for the input. I kind of ruled out the starter switch as when pushing it, the lights go dim (or out) and the two red warning lights come on (oil and gas?). So I'm thinking the switch is doing something. But then again, I may be totally wrong here. I need to look at the wiring diagram again. Problem is, I have service manuals/wiring diagrams across several years so I'm hoping they are all the same.
 
Thanks for the input. I kind of ruled out the starter switch as when pushing it, the lights go dim (or out) and the two red warning lights come on (oil and gas?). So I'm thinking the switch is doing something. But then again, I may be totally wrong here. I need to look at the wiring diagram again. Problem is, I have service manuals/wiring diagrams across several years so I'm hoping they are all the same.

Several changes in the starting wiring over the years. For specific diagrams, click on The Morley banner at the top of the page. He has a link to the various diagrams.
Yes, you are probably right about the switch function being O.K.(because of the test lights coming on) but I would still confirm by checking the blue/white for continuity to ground when the button is pressed. Probably better - and easier - to do this right at the starter relay itself.
I beleive you have already said that there is battery voltage at the red/white with the ignition on?
Cheers!
 
OK, more checking. Took the starter switch apart, check resistance across the switch as I depress switch, goes from infinity to 0 so I think that's OK. Also checked the Kill Switch - o problems there either. Took the left cowl off and grounded the black/yellow wire (side stand, clutch switches?), then the blue (neutral switch) on the starter switch unit - no difference. So I'm seriously thinking it's the starter solenoid/switch. My local Yamaha dealer says they are a bout $120. WTF? Anybody know where I can get a reliable one cheaper than that?
 
OK, more checking. Took the starter switch apart, check resistance across the switch as I depress switch, goes from infinity to 0 so I think that's OK. Also checked the Kill Switch - o problems there either. Took the left cowl off and grounded the black/yellow wire (side stand, clutch switches?), then the blue (neutral switch) on the starter switch unit - no difference. So I'm seriously thinking it's the starter solenoid/switch. My local Yamaha dealer says they are a bout $120. WTF? Anybody know where I can get a reliable one cheaper than that?


Works perfect on my Vmax.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/221272268621?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
Sorry, this won't work. Your link goes to Ebay to a starter relay for Yamaha VMX1200 V-MAX 1200 1985 1986 1987 1988 1989. Beyond 1990, this won't fit as from 1990 on, the relay has two small wires going into a dual connector, not a single wire.
 
OK, more checking. Took the starter switch apart, check resistance across the switch as I depress switch, goes from infinity to 0 so I think that's OK. Also checked the Kill Switch - o problems there either. Took the left cowl off and grounded the black/yellow wire (side stand, clutch switches?), then the blue (neutral switch) on the starter switch unit - no difference. So I'm seriously thinking it's the starter solenoid/switch. My local Yamaha dealer says they are a bout $120. WTF? Anybody know where I can get a reliable one cheaper than that?

Hate to see you spend $$$ on parts that can't be returned...IF your originals are O.K.
Did you test the starter relay, independantly of the bike's wiring harness?
The Clymer manual outlines the procedure. To paraphrase......
- fully charged battery
- disconnect battery and starter leads and two pin connector
- use jumpers to connect battery positive to red/white terminal, battery negative to blue/white
-check for continuity across relay terminals. If no cont., it's defective.
By the way, are you the Slash from Guns&Roses??
love your music, Man!
Cheers!
 
I've had this moniker for almost 40 years but I'm happy to share it with the guitar god that is also called Slash. Following the manual, I checked the resistance between all of the terminals on the relay and everything was infinity. So anyways, I'm tired of screwing around with everything and I'm gonna bite the bullet today and drop the bike off at the local Yamaha dealership. As the relay cost is over $100, if that's the problem - they will know pretty quick. If not - then I'm saving money not buying the relay.

Thanks for all of the replies!
 
OK, gotta post this now that the problem is fixed. Cost me a whole $48 and everything goes back to the dumbass owner - ME! Turns out, I had the coil connector and the ignition connector switched. I never thought the two connectors would be inter changeable - but they are. AND, I must have disconnected and connected those two connectors at least 10-15 times trying to rfix the issue. One connector is white, the other a very light yellow so anybody having this problem - make sure the colors match. I'm such a dumbass, I never even checked those!
 
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