a little advise?

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thetank

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my first max and i dont have any other experience to refrence the bike and mine had been modded before i got it and no one knows how much.
it doesnt want to hold speed...alays wants to accelerate..it is like i am always fighting it....it wont idle with the vboost on but wont run worth a crap without it

is thiss all normal for a jetted 4 2 1 headered bike or should i tear it appart and rebuilt the carbs
 
This is a whole lot of question without knowing a lot more. There are experts here that should be able to help you.
A modded bike that is in an unknown state is a rough place to start from... Been There..

Good Luck,
Dave
 
my first max and i dont have any other experience to refrence the bike and mine had been modded before i got it and no one knows how much.
it doesnt want to hold speed...alays wants to accelerate..it is like i am always [/U]fighting it....it wont idle with the vboost on but wont run worth a crap without it

is thiss all normal for a jetted 4 2 1 headered bike or should i tear it appart and rebuilt the carbs


Mine does that too. It's a right wrist issue ! :rofl_200:

Seriously though , sounds like a possible choke and / or jet issue.

One of the carb gurus will be here shortly , have patience , it will get sorted.

Welcome to the forum
 
well when i bought it ..it was the second owner and he only had it a little while...it scared him...he said it had stage 3 jetting and had been dyno'd and tuned for the vboost and the exaust..and i know it had something done cause the brass caps have been drilled out...it also has a k&n and the top of the box removed and i think it was even ground out for a bigger hole for air....all i know is that it is a scarry ride when opened up...it would smoke the hell out of my r1...if it had 6th gear
 
Hang in there. Some very resourceful guys on here. I'm sure they will help get it figured out. I am new myself on figuring out the Max, but this place is a wealth of knowledge.

Sent from my Smart-Ass phone.
 
my first max and i dont have any other experience to refrence the bike and mine had been modded before i got it and no one knows how much.
it doesnt want to hold speed...alays wants to accelerate..it is like i am always fighting it....it wont idle with the vboost on but wont run worth a crap without it

is thiss all normal for a jetted 4 2 1 headered bike or should i tear it appart and rebuilt the carbs

Not enough info really.
Switching v=boost on is not a standard feature. Have you had a 3 position switch installed? That would be off, 3000 or 6000.
Although, in none of those positions should the v-boost affect the idle.

Do you mean it starts to die down if you try and hold a constant speed? The only way to stop it from fading away is to slowly open the throttle, and all of a sudden it takes off?
If that is the case it is running too lean. It might require shimming the needles.

But more info is definitely required!
 
ok well i will try to explain it...i have a three position switch...the previous owner said that to the left is off the middle is normal and to the right is boost on
i will start with the idle....in the middle it has smooth idle but stumbles apon acceleration
when it is switched to the right side it idles like a bbc with a big cam and will die after about 30 seconds and while trying to stay at a constant speed it seems to fall behind then blast off without changing hand position...but acceleration without hesitation....and holy crap does it accelerate...lol
i have not switched it to the lift position yet but i have only had it for about 400 miles and i dont know how it was stored so i thought it might just have dirty carbs...but i would like to know what i am looking at...would it help if i took pictures of the vboost under the left hand cover...could anyone tell me what i have by what switch is there?
 
I would say keep it in the normal position and ride it like that for a while.
If the switch has a position for always on, then you might have to adjust the tuning or jetting a little bit to get it perfect.
If you try it in the normal position until you get used to the bike you will learn how the v-boost works. It is normally off before 6000RPM to provide smooth idle and bottom end, and starts to open at 6000RPM to give maximum horsepower at high revs. It this position you will get a kind of turbo boosting at 6000RPM which is really fun!

A lot of us on the forum have changed things to suit ourselves. Some have standard v-boost, some have always on, some have it starting at 3000RPM (called t-boost), some have programmable controllers.

Normally the 3 position switch (t-boost) is off, 3000RPM and 6000RPM. Your one might be custom though, because t-boost has no effect on idle.

edit : after re-reading your description, I realise it stumbles on the middle setting. If it is light throttle stumbling then maybe the needles need shimming to provide a bit more fuel in that range. It is possible the previous owner never got it working right!
 
The first thing to do on a new to you Max is sync the carbs! If the sync is out it can cause all sorts of havoc with idling and running (not smoothly) through acceleration.

And the good news is: sync takes a whole 5-10mns to do, and you hardly have to take anything off the bike (carb covers). All you need is a sync tool like the Morgan Carbtune ($100ish) or you can make your own for about $15. (Use the search tool)

To me it sounds like your bike was tuned to run with vboost stuck to on, which won't idle right as it's way too rich. In your middle position you prolly have the vboost off, so it'll idle happily but cough away on acceleration being starved.

There's a possibility that switch to left is the OEM setting, and that may work best - no boost at idle, comes on around 6000 rpm. That's the way Yamaha designed it and still the way it works best overall. A lot of people, after installing Tboost (which opens at 3k instead of 6k) took their bikes to a dyno run only to find out they made better power with the boost coming on at 6k..

So, do yourself a favor and sync your carbs first.
Then, with the bike on center stand, warm it up, and try revving it quickly to around 6000rpm while looking at the vboost motor/cable assembly (remove whatever you need to until you can see it using a flashlight if needed). The easiest way to find/see it moving is to switch your ignition off and on - you should hear (and see) it cycle open and close.
This way you can find out what it does depending where your switch is, as noted previously the three positions usually are off, on @ 3000rpm and on @ 6000rpm but find out and let us know, it'll really help on deciding what's best to do!
 
ok i'll try to figure out the switch tomorrow...but either way i have the switch i have only felt the boost when i turn it on...having trouble centering it on my jack since PO removed the center stand for the exaust...but i think you are right about it bieng set for full boost...part of my jerking problem was me...i have been riding a m50 for the last year so i was shifting by ear since my face shield makes it impossible to see the dash...and i was lugging it...rode it today with my lower piece up on my helmet and realized i was shifting too soon....started shifting later and it ran perfect except for full boost and having to switch it when i stop
 

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