Iam not sure if I checked the oms properly or not but when the engine is running I get 11.9 volts and when I rev it up I get 12.2 and two min running and the rr gets too hot to touch.Like I said before I get 20 to 50 ac volts with the stator un connected and1 0-11 with it connected to the rr.Do i really need to wire and solder the three stator wires to the rr or just clean up the connecters and use that to join them .
I recommend cutting that stator connector plug out. Its a frequent failure point.
A matter of opinion but I think a quality compression butt splice taped up or heat shrinked is as good as soldering any day.
Based on this last post tho I still think your r/r is fried.
Perhaps you could check stator output "wire to wire" engine running, plugged in to r/r and take duplicate readings on the stator side and then the r/r side of that connector to check for a massive voltage drop across that stator connector when it has load on it.
Better yet and more accurate;
You can also read directly across the connector from one side to the other (AC) for the same wire and if good shouldn't read much if any volts, more than a 100 millivolts for this one would be the most I'd let slide. Every little bit counts.
If its dropping a bunch across the connector then maybe i'm wrong and its not the r/r. But based on what you said earlier about the r/r getting way hot i'm still guessing that's the problem.
You can also do that "across the connector" reading anywhere on the DC side to look for bad connections as well. Remember tho you need load in order to see voltage drop. Lights, fan on if possible to give you a worst case scenario.
Another proving method (once you have a good r/r) is to read DC volts (running, everything normal and plugged in) from the DC positive wire first connector from the r/r between it and the BODY of the r/r. (Dig in with that probe on the r/r body)
That's what the r/r is REALLY making.
If your not getting this same voltage across the battery terminals then you have a poor ground between the r/r body and the battery, or a poor connection between that positive wire and the battery. (Famous crimp fix, there's another way tho ill get to in a bit)
Straight path to point a to b in all cases, not relying on the frame or engine to get neg. to your battery or starter, and eliminating connector voltage drops is key here.
I still have the frame and engine grounded of course but buying some big monster wire (I think i used #6 or #8 awg, cant remember) and getting creative did the trick for me.
Ground wire directly from the r/r mounting bolt to the battery neg., straight ground wire from the battery neg. to a starter mounting bolt ( this is to address starting issues) and splicing into that first pos. wire coming out of the r/r and taking it straight to the battery pos. are things I did. (On the r/r positive I used an oversize butt splice when eliminating the connector and added a third wire straight to the battery, around the famous crimp, butt I also soldered that crimp as well a long time before)
Big wire from the r/r pos. lead to the battery pos. is kinda overkill though cause I think the factory wire coming out of the r/r is only #10 or #12 awg perhaps.
I did not eliminate any existing wiring, I just paralleled it with new wire skipping around all the bullshit connectors, splices, and crimps. Except for the connectors on both sides of the r/r, I shit canned those and butt spliced them.
Sorry to be so dang wordy....just trying to help with a little detail.
