Adventures with Powdercoating

[fmcandrew]

Calipers all shot & rebuilt...they will definately stand out on my black/red bike

 

[gamorg02]

Calipers all shot & rebuilt...they will definately stand out on my black/red bike
View attachment 42615

i always had my powdercoater mask off any machined mating surfaces, any reason you didn't here?

 

[fmcandrew]

I masked off the machined surfaces where the 2 halfs join on the caliper...but I've seen those PC'd as well. 1 to 2 mil dry coating equates to something much less after flow-out. I've yet to encounter any fitment issues. I think the perception that PC is this massively thick coating is somewhat miss-understood. Just my personal experience over the last couple years...

Remeber I'm a hobbiest...and learning all the time...but the way I view the process is that I want to wrap the part as completely as possible. It's astetically pleasing and I've yet to have a coating failure...

 

[marsmax85]

I masked off the machined surfaces where the 2 halfs join on the caliper...but I've seen those PC'd as well. 1 to 2 mil dry coating equates to something much less after flow-out. I've yet to encounter any fitment issues. I think the perception that PC is this massively thick coating is somewhat miss-understood. Just my personal experience over the last couple years...

Remeber I'm a hobbiest...and learning all the time...but the way I view the process is that I want to wrap the part as completely as possible. It's astetically pleasing and I've yet to have a coating failure...

Looking good wish you were my neighbor I've got some parts you could practice with :biglaugh: unk:

 

[bazwell]

Calipers all shot & rebuilt...they will definately stand out on my black/red bike
View attachment 42615

I'm intriged by the bolts. I tried doing bolts once and decided that it wasn't worth it because the PC came off so easily when I leaned on it with a spanner.
What is your experience with PC on bolts?

I also mask off mating surfaces, and fill the banjo bolt, bleeder and caliper holes. I scrunch up little bits of newspaper and shove them in the threaded holes to keep them clear. I get a sheet of sticker material type stuff and use a hole punch set to makes circle stickers to fit the banjo bolt gasket surface.

I even make stickers for where the head of the pinch bolts sit because I think the bolts can come loose if they are seated on nylon!

 

[fmcandrew]

Baz, so far I've had real good luck on all my hardware. I usually bead blast & prep like any other part. While "not worth it" to many, I think it just screams uniqueness and pride in ownership. An upcharge for sure as it's labor intensive (I just don't see it often...but I love the ability to contrast since PC has far more limitations than paint with regards to effects).

I'd be curious if your experience was due to an undercure situation. Granted...I'm very careful when I reinstall making sure I have the best fitting tool for the job. Actually, what I've found is that the coating will close the tolerance between the bolt & tool, the socket will fit snug, but that keeps it from moving around much and limits the material stripped away, if any.

I used to use all kinds of stuff to plug holes...I've upgraded to good silicon plugs & caps...just makes the whole process a bit smoother & quicker. They last forever and there are good kits on ebay...so money well spent IMHO.

Marsmax85 - I generally don't "sell" myself even though I consistently produce high quality items. Reason is the amount of spare time I have. If, however, you wanted something done and don't mind waiting a bit longer than a shop, I'm generally very cheap. PM me and we'll see if I can help or if another forum member is better positioned to assist you.

For me, this thread is for PC'ers sharing knowledge & experiences...something I gladly give for free...

Which leads me to my latest "adventure"...shooting high-temp powder on my recently aquired Holeshot exhaust. Below are some before/after pics. I got this powder (other colors are available) from All Powder Paints, LLC (my supplier of choice). They claim it's good up to 1200 degrees and will take consistent temps around 1000 degrees. Can't comment on that yet, but I can say that this powder shot very nicely. Yes...the flanges fit nicely over the tube (I could feel a comment coming...). If this holds up to the temps as claimed, this will be a VERY cost effect alternative to the other currently available coatings. I was blown away by the results...I hope my fellow Maxer's are as well...








P.S. - Steve...I hope you're enjoying your new toy and not cooking yourself anymore!!!:rofl_200:

 

[sdt354]

Baz, so far I've had real good luck on all my hardware. I usually bead blast & prep like any other part. While "not worth it" to many, I think it just screams uniqueness and pride in ownership. An upcharge for sure as it's labor intensive (I just don't see it often...but I love the ability to contrast since PC has far more limitations than paint with regards to effects).

I'd be curious if your experience was due to an undercure situation. Granted...I'm very careful when I reinstall making sure I have the best fitting tool for the job. Actually, what I've found is that the coating will close the tolerance between the bolt & tool, the socket will fit snug, but that keeps it from moving around much and limits the material stripped away, if any.

I used to use all kinds of stuff to plug holes...I've upgraded to good silicon plugs & caps...just makes the whole process a bit smoother & quicker. They last forever and there are good kits on ebay...so money well spent IMHO.

Marsmax85 - I generally don't "sell" myself even though I consistently produce high quality items. Reason is the amount of spare time I have. If, however, you wanted something done and don't mind waiting a bit longer than a shop, I'm generally very cheap. PM me and we'll see if I can help or if another forum member is better positioned to assist you.

For me, this thread is for PC'ers sharing knowledge & experiences...something I gladly give for free...

Which leads me to my latest "adventure"...shooting high-temp powder on my recently aquired Holeshot exhaust. Below are some before/after pics. I got this powder (other colors are available) from All Powder Paints, LLC (my supplier of choice). They claim it's good up to 1200 degrees and will take consistent temps around 1000 degrees. Can't comment on that yet, but I can say that this powder shot very nicely. Yes...the flanges fit nicely over the tube (I could feel a comment coming...). If this holds up to the temps as claimed, this will be a VERY cost effect alternative to the other currently available coatings. I was blown away by the results...I hope my fellow Maxer's are as well...
View attachment 42678

View attachment 42679

View attachment 42680

View attachment 42681

P.S. - Steve...I hope you're enjoying your new toy and not cooking yourself anymore!!!:rofl_200:

That is a great job Frank. I believe you 're the first to dive into the high temp powders, that I can think of. The finish is what I'd hope to get. Yea, my old gun has zapped the hell out of me a few times, Mostly because of a bad ground in the wiring. I need to PC something soon, I'd wished I'd PC'd my calipers. the caliper paint comes off if you look at it sideways. Thank you for posting, and the gun.
Steve-o

 

[PATMAX]

You must have missed my post about a year ago concerning high temp PC and the results. No biggie, my findings were the same, great! Only used the flat black for exhaust parts. I have no idea what would happen with colors though.

 

[fmcandrew]

Pat,

How did it hold up to the heat? My supplier only offers 3 colors (flat black, grey & bronze), but hoping they can do more with the silicon blends. I didn't mean to steal any thunder...this was just my 1st experience with it and was very pleased how the powder flowed (nothing to do with my skills). I've never priced the cerimic or chrome alternatives, but would be curious to know approximate averages. I know my direct costs and they're not much. If the powder can take the temps as claimed this has got to be the most economical way to bring life back to older pipes...

 

[bazwell]

Ooh, I didn't even know about HT powder!
Is there pics of it after plenty of use? If not, I can't wait to see them.

Frank, yeah I was probably lazy with the bolts I did. Sometimes I think I might change my name to Lazy McLazy, but I'm too lazy. :biglaugh:

 

[fmcandrew]

Baz, I asked Pat to weigh in on his experience...as I'm also very curious how my pipes will hold up. I can't test as I don't have a kilm and my oven struggles to get to 500 degrees.

If it is a true silicon based product it should do ok, I guess. My plugs are all silicon and they take the blast from my propane torch with ease...I can't even test with a sample & torch as my IR gun only goes to 600 degrees. If someone has a kilm I'd glady send a sample for testing...

Regarding the bolts...it's a complete labor of love thing...pretty sure most would consider it useless considering you could easily paint them after installed with some touch-up paint...

 

[PATMAX]

My high temp work were logically exhaust pipe only. Nothing special to shoot powder. I did find that it required only two light coats for perfect coverage.
Even right out of the head the color has remained dark and even. If anything the sheen may have changed a tiny bit. Everything downstream is like new. It seems more resistant to any scratching or incidental damage than standard powder. I think one could get away with striking it with a round piece of metal like a ratchet handle without damage. I give it a rating of "excellent " for cost, ease of use and durability. Only downfall I can come up with is there are but only a few colors available from my normal suppliers. Not that I want neon green exhaust pipes!

 

[sdt354]

You must have missed my post about a year ago concerning high temp PC and the results. No biggie, my findings were the same, great! Only indebted the flat black for exhaust parts. I have no idea what would happen with colors though.

Thanks Pat. Can't believe I missed it. I'm glad to hear and see good results.
Steve

 

[fmcandrew]

Pat...that was the review I was hoping for!!!!! Sounds like I've made a good choice and others have a excellent alternative to cerimic or chroming.

I did a bunch of research on this and the general concensus is that you can't PC exhaust pipes...period. Of course those same folks were pushing a ceramic solution...

Like Steve, I too am sorry I missed your initial assessment...but then again I'm old and generally forget what I did the day before....

Regarding colors, I'm OK with what we got since all you really see is grey, black or chrome anyway. But I agree it would be REALLY cool if we could offer some fun colors to play with!

 

[fmcandrew]

Just some additional work on the exhaust...got the cans in OK shape, cleaned them up as best as possible then shot red to follow the theme of my bike...I'll update when on the bike...

 

[fmcandrew]

It's been some time since I lasted posted on this thread, but I figured I'd share some recent work. I PC'd the exhaust, cans and engine cases/bolts.

The engine cases were the most challenging as most shops won't even PC them (the cases are heat soaked in oil {normal service} making out-gassing a huge problem). Got them to come out real nice...but it was challenging. Pics only show left side, but right side was also done (required waterpump rebuild). It's not clean - so please try to look past the smudge marks

 

[adambweird]

Did you PC all those bolts or are those anodized? Your bike looks amazing, well done sir!

 

[fmcandrew]

Pc'd...I don't think you can anodize steel...just aluminum. If the bolts are new (I paid $50 for a complete engine kit) then it's pretty quick & painless...if older bolts then they'd need to be properly prep'd or you'd risk failure when installing.

Oh...and thanks for the compliment

 

[PATMAX]

Sean has the complete engine bolt kits available so it's not worth it to me to individual prep, wire hang and spray all those bolt heads. Just a tip on masking guys. Just grab some aluminum foil. Tear off what you need and a wrap or two enough to keep the foil from blowing off when puffing the powder. It's cheap, fast, easy and effective. What else do you want?
Brake caliper mask off discussion, I plug the caliper bolt holes with silicone plugs but the machined faces got coated. Can't see how it would matter if they had PC on them. Honestly, the hole and chrome bolt fit is plenty sloppy to not even bother covering them.
The rest is sprayed as one piece with pistons pushed in all the way.
The super anal will complain the bolts that hold the caliper together are forever fused to the caliper but which of you guys are disassembling your caliper halfs ?

 

[fmcandrew]

There are other methods available for dealing with the bolts (I don't hang them individually...they are batch processed). Haven't seen Sean's bolt kits, are they colored to choice or just stainless?

Like I've mentioned before...the bolts are a purely personal thing...I saw a few bikes done and personally liked it...tedious - yes, but what the hell...