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wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
youtube
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
Ten tons of sanding. I recommend buying chrome parts from Morley and let someone else do the major work involved. The chrome parts also will not need repolished and waxed every other week to stay shiney.
alorio1
Well-Known Member
I never tried this but found this on Youtube, so I just thought I would throw this out to you, but the ones who viewed it on the forumm was not too impressed and neither was I.........
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=26959
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=26959
maxrom
Well-Known Member
I agree + 2
if you got the $$$ go chrome
If not you will need elbow oil all life long I KNOW:biglaugh:
davesax36
Well-Known Member
I followed this procedure when I polished the fork lowers on my VTX. Decide whether you're willing to go through all of it after reading and before you start. Once you start, you'll have to finish... Or you can quit at any point and have a (good) chromer cover your mistakes.
My process started when I tried to use a little dremel wheel to take off a couple tiny spots on my fork lowers. It went like this.
Make tiny little tracks on your forks with dremel tool. (not necessary)
Make some more to see if the first ones can be covered up. (also not necessary)
Ask about polishing on the forums. (Congratulations, you've already done this step.)
Take over a sink. (I recommend a utility sink, as I did this whole project in the apartment sink of my then girlfriend/now wife. She's very understanding of my condition [loves motorcycles]. YMMV)
Begin wet sanding with 320-440 grit sandpaper. You get to pick which to start with. Remember that the lower you start, the longer it will take, but if there are big imperfections in your parts, it will be worth it in the end and you won't have to start over if you get the grit right at the beginning.
Do not skip any sections that you think "already look pretty good." They will look different if you skip them. Don't ask me how I know this.
Once you're satisfied that you've sanded every nook and cranny at one level, move up in grain to the next available to you. I went to 400 from 320.
Continue to move up one level at a time 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600 (if you can find it).
Once you've wet sanded at all those levels, move to #0000 steel wool with dish soap. It might sound nuts, but that's what I did. I feel like it made a difference.
After you're done with the steel wool, get out the jewelers rouge. I think mine went red, green, white. Whatever the colors, follow the instructions and use a different buffing wheel for each color. I'm pretty sure there is also black and brown in some kits.
WARNING!!!!! THE NEXT STEPS MAY CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO RELATIONSHIPS, AND/OR THE HEALTH OF THE POLISHER.
Buffing with a disk on a drill, or any other apparatus for that matter, will "paint" a nice black line 1-5" wide, extending between 8 and 10 feet of whatever room your sink is in, from the point of polishing perpendicular to the axis of and in the same direction as the rotation.
If you survive that part, you have the joy of looking at your handiwork every time you see you buff and seal your polished part. This will be at least weekly, but could probably be every day if you ever touch the part or do not have it cleared before your fingers return to their normal color and you get all the buffing wheel fuzzies out of your hair/clothing/cabinets/pets.....
If you still want to polish your parts, there are a couple very good sealers on the market. I'd have to look them up again, though.
Good luck.
My process started when I tried to use a little dremel wheel to take off a couple tiny spots on my fork lowers. It went like this.
Make tiny little tracks on your forks with dremel tool. (not necessary)
Make some more to see if the first ones can be covered up. (also not necessary)
Ask about polishing on the forums. (Congratulations, you've already done this step.)
Take over a sink. (I recommend a utility sink, as I did this whole project in the apartment sink of my then girlfriend/now wife. She's very understanding of my condition [loves motorcycles]. YMMV)
Begin wet sanding with 320-440 grit sandpaper. You get to pick which to start with. Remember that the lower you start, the longer it will take, but if there are big imperfections in your parts, it will be worth it in the end and you won't have to start over if you get the grit right at the beginning.
Do not skip any sections that you think "already look pretty good." They will look different if you skip them. Don't ask me how I know this.
Once you're satisfied that you've sanded every nook and cranny at one level, move up in grain to the next available to you. I went to 400 from 320.
Continue to move up one level at a time 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, 1600 (if you can find it).
Once you've wet sanded at all those levels, move to #0000 steel wool with dish soap. It might sound nuts, but that's what I did. I feel like it made a difference.
After you're done with the steel wool, get out the jewelers rouge. I think mine went red, green, white. Whatever the colors, follow the instructions and use a different buffing wheel for each color. I'm pretty sure there is also black and brown in some kits.
WARNING!!!!! THE NEXT STEPS MAY CAUSE SEVERE DAMAGE TO RELATIONSHIPS, AND/OR THE HEALTH OF THE POLISHER.
Buffing with a disk on a drill, or any other apparatus for that matter, will "paint" a nice black line 1-5" wide, extending between 8 and 10 feet of whatever room your sink is in, from the point of polishing perpendicular to the axis of and in the same direction as the rotation.
If you survive that part, you have the joy of looking at your handiwork every time you see you buff and seal your polished part. This will be at least weekly, but could probably be every day if you ever touch the part or do not have it cleared before your fingers return to their normal color and you get all the buffing wheel fuzzies out of your hair/clothing/cabinets/pets.....
If you still want to polish your parts, there are a couple very good sealers on the market. I'd have to look them up again, though.
Good luck.
Last edited:
shawn kloker
Well-Known Member
DOn't forget how many times that you will have to grow back your finger prints. LOL. They are already gone before you will start to feel the pain while wet sanding.
Miles Long
Well-Known Member
As others have said already, if you polish your alloy parts, be prepared to spend countless hours maintaining the finish.
For this reason, if I have anything to fabricate that is intended to be polished, I make it out of stainless steel. Much more difficult to shape, bend, cut and polish, but no maintenance is required after finishing, other than cleaning off road grime.
I've never tried it, but google "Zoopseal", if you are looking for a sealer for polished aluminum. Apparently different than other clearcoats, in that a chemical process is involved, and the finish lasts up to three years.
Cheers!
For this reason, if I have anything to fabricate that is intended to be polished, I make it out of stainless steel. Much more difficult to shape, bend, cut and polish, but no maintenance is required after finishing, other than cleaning off road grime.
I've never tried it, but google "Zoopseal", if you are looking for a sealer for polished aluminum. Apparently different than other clearcoats, in that a chemical process is involved, and the finish lasts up to three years.
Cheers!
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Zoopo Seal is no longer made. This is supposedly the best alternative.
http://www.shineseal.com/
http://www.shineseal.com/
