Another High Temp Thread!

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VMAX Eddie

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Yes I know, Eddie wtf is with another temperature thread!?

Well my answer is, everything doesn't get covered in just one, topics get off focus and new solutions bring new questions.

Per my other thread I am looking to solve my VMAX high temperature issues with a automatic solution. Like many I DO NOT WANT a manual switch because I will forget to turn it off and I don't want to have to focus my attention while driving on a stupid switch, unless it's NOS ;)

I've tried the Vmax Outlaw switch and I guess I got a bad one because it comes on WAY too soon, but I'm not positive that it isn't just a hokey solution.

Being that they only have a 90-day warranty I just don't want to bother with it. The other recommended switches, like the NAPA, Borg Warner, etc, seem hokey as well and seem to make the fans run TOO much.

Before putting in the VMO switch, which is now out and stock is in, I did a very thorough flush of the radiator system. I replaced the fluid with ordinary radiator fluid and water, 50/50 mix. Since then even with the stock switch Mr. Max is much happier. The temp isn't going quite as high and cools down MUCH faster.

However on hot AND humid days it still stays WAY up near the red line in any sort of stop and go traffic after running for any amount of time. Really quickly it will climb in that situation.

So my question is, what else is a worthy solution? (Forget the switches here, lets just stay stock.)

Some say replace the fan blade with an aluminum one. From what I've seen those blades go for around $60. Is it worth it?

Some say use Water Wetter or one of the other alternative fluids. But others say they tried them and they don't do shit. Waste of money or worth a shot?

Any other solutions I have not read about feel free to inject here.
 
I put in temperature sending switch. fan comes on at 200 degrees or half way on gauge whether it comes to much or to early I don't see a problem . Peace of mind knowing I don't have to stare at gauge to see where needle at . I just can't remember where I got unit from ebay I'm sure maybe I followed another threads recommendation.
 
I put in temperature sending switch. fan comes on at 200 degrees or half way on gauge whether it comes to much or to early I don't see a problem . Peace of mind knowing I don't have to stare at gauge to see where needle at . I just can't remember where I got unit from ebay I'm sure maybe I followed another threads recommendation.
I have a cheap Auto Zone sender for a car. It closes at 170 degrees. I know it's a little early, but it puts me right on the gauge dot (early Gen 1's) It's a few years old. I'm wired for a manual over ride in case the sender ever dies. Or I want a switch. I check that temp gauge a lot in hot weather, just habit.
Steve-o
 
You could have a bad thermostat, or slowly block radiator, or timing off some, I road all day the pass 3 days very hot here in MD, My temp stayed just a hair above the middle at idle when riding it drops a little below the middle. Me would check the stat 1st... to make sure it's opening
and closet at the right temp.
 
Have you determined that it actually IS overheating...as opposed to a bad or high reading temp gauge?

Checked for vacuum leaks, sync and valve adjustment or a lean condition?

If all that is good maybe a new stat?
 
I don't think the there is any block. I will check the gage and do a closer test on the sensor.

What about aluminum fan blade? This going to do anything real to the situation?
 
In regards to aluminum fan blades?

I don't see how the blade material is relevent at all.....:ummm:

Now if the blade has a different pitch or some design change beyond the material used that causes it to move more air then I could see where it might make a difference........

I also use Royal Purple's "water wetter" product...I don't know if it made any difference at all....I did it with the new engine since I knew it was going to run hotter....so I don't have any before and after comparison to judge from...

With no fan and running around at any speed over 25-30mph or so it stays at slightly below the middle 3:00 mark...which I've tested and found to be right at 200 degrees....If it's sitting still idling the fan is absolutely required to keep it from overheating, with the fan on it'll idle in traffic just fine without overheating.....I run the switch and have never considered having to turn it on or off a burden......I still have the stock thermal switch in service too for backup...

To test the thermostat gauge and switch just fire it up with the radiator cap off, using a good thermometer stuck in the water where you removed the cap....I use one thats an attahcment for a Fluke DVOM...

The fan switch and guage should be easy to compare with you thermometer...on the t-stat you'll know when it opens by the behaviour of the water movement in the cap area....

For a more accurate test I would try to keep the tip of your thermometer off the side walls of the filler neck area....
 
There's an old thread here somewhere that tells you what thermostat from a car will fit and its a 180 on the same thread it tells you what sender to put in to kick your fan on earlier... Going down the road my bike holds about 180-185 and sitting in traffic the fan comes on at roughly 205 and shuts off at 198, I've got a Vapor speedometer that has a temp gauge built in to it with a sender in my coolant flow so I know exactly what temps the bike runs at... Try to find that thread and you'll be all set, I bought the parts at NAPA..

Sent from my ADR6425LVW using Tapatalk 2
 
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