Best 1st gen year for reliability and ease of maintence

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Generally clutches are easy peasy. If the cost is right, a 2001 would be a great bike and if the only thing wrong with it is the clutch, then it would be easy to fix and easy to upgrade (new frictions, new steels, and upgrade with install of 'full-friction' disc and higher pressure PCW diaphram spring) and you'd be good to go with no more slippage...... ever.
Vinnie
 
New to Yamaha vmax, i am about to buy a 2001. the previous owner states that the clutch has trouble holding pressure. I assume that will be an easy-ish fix. Anyone have this issue before or have any input on if this is a make or break for the bike?
2001, 25 K miles

Sounds like a master cylinder or slave cylinder issue. Seems to me the slave goes more often. No big deal if thats all there is to it.
 
Very few changes over their production. I had a 95 and an 01 and I believe that the 01 had all upgrades (Oiling issues, front forks) ever done to the vmax before 2nd gen of course. I rode both like I stole them almost daily, the 01 had 53,000 miles when i sold it and never smoked even if left sitting and still launched like new. If i were to buy another I’d go with the later years after 2000
 
Here's the problem with any issues on these bikes, almost-any bikes, really.

One thing can mask another issue, or issues. A bad 2nd gear is a common VMax problem, and that alone is enough to cut the market value of these bikes, in-half. Most people aren't going to be able to fix a bad 2nd gear on their own. It's probably $2,000 to take your bike to a Yamaha dealer, and to get them to do the work, many dealerships won't agree to take-on such work, unless you pay substantially, up-front. Why? because when the bike comes-in and it needs a 2nd gear, in the course of a teardown other issues come to-light. Suddenly that estimate is out the window, and to most people, the bike is going to be something they are not-willing to pay-for. They walk-away from the bike, abandoning it, and the dealership is reluctant to spend the time and $ to fix it, because the dealership market for a Gen 1 isn't going to get then their $ out of it. Try and trade-in a Gen 1 these days, and they'll probably offer you < $1K for it. That's a running one.

These are great bikes for someone who can fix the issues that commonly occur: carburetor cleaning/rebuild, fork seals/downtubes replacement; R/R replacement with a MOSFET unit; battery, brake pads, rebuild/replace front brake and/or clutch master cylinders (also clutch slave cyl); brake calipers rebuild; clutch friction discs (steelies rarely need replacement, just a scuffing); and, yes, the second-gear replacement. I didn't mention tires, that's a given. Electrical repairs can quickly turn a bike into a nightmare.

If the bike cannot operate properly, such-as the clutch is acting-up, which could be nothing-more-than needing a good bleeding, that's gonna prevent you from easily and safely operating the bike to hammer-it in 2nd gear, to see if the gear dogs and the mating holes are worn, and if the bike is one which has sat for years, now needing carbs done, that 2nd gear repair, tires, brake pads, calipers, all hydraulics rebuilt/cleaned, fork seals, maybe downtubes, cleaning the gas tank, maybe sealing it, etc., suddenly that's a $500 bike. A savvy seller will know this and will know the bike's true-worth; an unscrupulous seller will know 2nd gear is bad, and all those other deferred-maintenance issues, but still insist, "hey these are selling on ebay motors for $6,000!" That may-be someone's asking-price, but sales prices are more like half-that, for stock bikes in decent shape.

We're on-here because we like these bikes, most of us can do some if not most of the work needed to keep them on the road. Also, there is a good body of knowledge when those problems occur: someone on-here, or who has been on-here, has had your problem before. The search function is your-friend.

The key is to being smart with your money, buy the best bike you can. If you're buying something having the quality of, "it needs work," do NOT over-pay! For me here in the good, ol' USA I wouldn't pay over $1,000 for a in good-shape VMax with some desirable accessories needing 2nd gear, and I can do the work. Something neglected and weathered, not-running, that price gets cut in-half, and only if the bike turns-over and has compression. A locked-up bike engine for me consigns it to a $250-$300 price range. No, I don't care how-much they're selling-for on ebay motors, that's my price. GLWS.
 
I must say that most of the Florida bikes I saw while living there were in very good to mint condition.

Of course, if the owner actually lives and rides on the beach and parks it in the sun all time, it can be a different story, but most are in town/country, and are garaged or at least parked under car ports most of the time.

I'd buy such a FL bike any day over any that actually goes through a snowy winter yearly.
So very true----a lot of riders down here are week end warriors. A lot of cheap low millage bikes to choose from.
 
That description of the problem is difficult to answer for sure.

Sounds like a clutch slave leak. If that's the problem, it is not deal breaker at all. You can fix it in a few hours with ordinary tools and about $30 or so in parts.
 
New to Yamaha vmax, i am about to buy a 2001. the previous owner states that the clutch has trouble holding pressure. I assume that will be an easy-ish fix. Anyone have this issue before or have any input on if this is a make or break for the bike?
2001, 25 K miles
Probably just needs to bleed, especially if it's been sitting a while.
 
Probably just needs to bleed, especially if it's been sitting a while.
I'm not-sure I follow your thoughts about this. The only reason a sealed system (yes, with a tiny air relief breather-hole) would need bleeding is because of a leak, or low fluid (probably due-to a leak!); then, it needs a rebuild of whatever's leaking, or a replacement.

My point I was trying to-make, in my longer post, is that being cautious will prevent you from being burned by an unscrupulous seller. "Ran when parked," sure. If someone wants "running bike" pricing on his sale, and it "only-needs spark plugs," or whatever, so, it's an "easy-fix," then, you do it and give me a call, because then, I'll surely buy it!

My personal method of purchasing bikes is that if it's not-running, I'm only-paying parts-bike pricing. That resolve has prevented me from being financially-abused in my bike purchases.
 
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Clutch slave likely needs rebuilding. Kit's aren't expensive and the job is usually not too difficult.
 
Good morning V-Maxers, I hope life is treating all of you well. I ride a 2005 now with 54,000 miles on it and climbing. I have a lot of fun riding this machine, and I exercise all the ponies on a frequent bases. I think I am having clutch area related issues. I replaced the clutch at around 30,000 miles. It feels like it engages well, but is hard to get into Neutral when at a stop. When ever I am in neutral with the clutch engaged at a stop, the back tire gives a jolt when I put it in gear. I have flushed the clutch fluid, and bled out the bubbles. When I have the center-stand down, engine off, in first gear, and clutch engaged there is a lot of resistance. During my 3 hr. clutch bleed extravaganza, there was a spot where the resistance was almost 0, but I still was seeing bubbles, so I continued until the bubbles were gone, and when I finished the resistance was back. Does this sound like I need to rebuild my slave cylinder, and if so, does anyone know who makes the best rebuild kit. I love this motorcycle, it is a blast to ride, as so many of you know. I would like to keep it on the road as long as I can and see if I can pass 100,000 miles and keep going. However, most of the miles ridden will never be soft. I ride hard, and I have a lot of fun doing it. I appreciate your time and thoughts.
 
Good morning V-Maxers, I hope life is treating all of you well. I ride a 2005 now with 54,000 miles on it and climbing. I have a lot of fun riding this machine, and I exercise all the ponies on a frequent bases. I think I am having clutch area related issues. I replaced the clutch at around 30,000 miles. It feels like it engages well, but is hard to get into Neutral when at a stop. When ever I am in neutral with the clutch engaged at a stop, the back tire gives a jolt when I put it in gear. I have flushed the clutch fluid, and bled out the bubbles. When I have the center-stand down, engine off, in first gear, and clutch engaged there is a lot of resistance. During my 3 hr. clutch bleed extravaganza, there was a spot where the resistance was almost 0, but I still was seeing bubbles, so I continued until the bubbles were gone, and when I finished the resistance was back. Does this sound like I need to rebuild my slave cylinder, and if so, does anyone know who makes the best rebuild kit. I love this motorcycle, it is a blast to ride, as so many of you know. I would like to keep it on the road as long as I can and see if I can pass 100,000 miles and keep going. However, most of the miles ridden will never be soft. I ride hard, and I have a lot of fun doing it. I appreciate your time and thoughts.

Start here:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

Use of the 'reverse-bleed' technique is the fastest way I've been able to bleed clutches and brakes. The description is in the link destination, including how-to make your own 'reverse-bleed' tool, inexpensively.

$25.88 at Ron Ayres Yamaha for the slave cylinder seal kit.
https://www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/yam/500452abf8700209bc79242a/clutch

Part #29: Push Lever Seal Kit

26H-W0098-00-00
 
Generally clutches are easy peasy. If the cost is right, a 2001 would be a great bike and if the only thing wrong with it is the clutch, then it would be easy to fix and easy to upgrade (new frictions, new steels, and upgrade with install of 'full-friction' disc and higher pressure PCW diaphram spring) and you'd be good to go with no more slippage...... ever.
Vinnie
 
I have a 2001. My dad has had a VMax since they came out. He is also a genius with these bikes. When this 01 came in his shop he called me and said it was for sale. He said the 01’s just seem to be a bit stronger then the other years. This is coming from a man who built a custom intake for his blower he put on his Max. Along with a 4 barrel carb and belt driven. He is a bit of a madman. Some might know Jack King in south jersey.
 
Camden County area here. Have to say the Vmax is a power house at any year. I’ve owned my 94 just about two years now and finally have it where it’s rideable.
It’s definitely quicker than my Vtwins.
 
If you ever need a master VMax mechanic to work on your beast, let me know. I’ll give you his contact info. Man is a legend with Max’s
 

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