Best fix for o-ring problem?

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hawkeye

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So I've read through quite a few threads on the o-ring issue, but have yet to find a solid solution. It seems to me that it is a combination of two things - a soft silicone o-ring, and the oil pipe not being seated deeply enough.

So, what would be the most reliable fix? A different o-ring with the new foot that cycle one off makes? Wiring up the oil pipe?

Let me know. Thanks.
 
Using the Kawasaki o-ring and wiring up the pipe seems to be the most reasonably priced idea.

I believe the problem was the foot would get soft and mush down over time and allow the pipe to move down which in turn allows the o-ring to bulge out.

Chris
 
what are people using to wire the pipe, and what to?
 
what are people using to wire the pipe, and what to?

I believe there's a casting tab up there and most just use an old extension cord... lol No not really...

I'd use safety wire, but any thin gauge steel or stainless wire would suffice. You just need to get it tight enough.
 
I believe there's a casting tab up there and most just use an old extension cord... lol No not really...

I'd use safety wire, but any thin gauge steel or stainless wire would suffice. You just need to get it tight enough.

any suggestions on where to get said wire and how to tighten it?

take a look at these pics. He found the solution

http://imageevent.com/wforest/spanishflyermyvmax

not a bad idea, but i don't have the fabrication ability.
 
Definitely would not need safety wire pliers in this application. Just grip the ends of the wire with regular pliers and twist. Does the exact same thing just not as fast or fancy. Pretty much like tying rebar. If. You need any practice come on down, we have about 5 thousand lbs of it to tie up in Erie by tomorrow.
 
LOL, we can round up a pair or two (I could have loaned you some too). You won't need it to be particularly special though. We used the .040" wire on the last engine (though we hadn't really been wiring up all the tubes with our HD oiling kit). The wires per inch should be between 8-10 if possible though it varies with the wire thickness.

Sean
 
Mike is right, you don't need the fancy tool to do the job and pliers will do fine. I have seen it done on endurance race snowmobiles that my buddy builds which run 500 miles @ 80 mph avg on a 1 mile banked ice track!
 
Oh is that where that elbow is from? I saw that and figured it was a pretty good fix, but the same in the end as wiring it up. Do you think the plastic foot that replaces the rubber one would be just as good?

Thanks for the replies. This is a much more productive forum than the one for my truck - there you get 10 stupid smarta$$ answers to one good one.
 
hawkeye,

I read that you have a 2006. Yamaha updated the pipes in 2003. It may not be necessary for you to do anything. The new pipe fits farther up and provides a much better "Captivity" of the O-Ring. I have done 2 bikes, a 94 that had the O-Ring popped out of place but no engine damage. The second, an 89 and the O-Ring was in place but I swear it had updated pipes... I replaced the O-Ring on both with the Kawasaki Part. I used the COO Button on the 94 but did not on the 89. I used the rubber bumper from the 94 on the 89. It appeared to be in slightly better shape. I don't forsee ever having to worry about ether O-Ring, ever again...

There are many ways to fix the problem. But I still think that you may find that you don't have a popped O-Ring on your 06.

Good Luck, no matter what you decide...


Dave
 
i may just do the kawi o-ring and a new rubber bumper (which sean recommended). i just honestly don't want to ever do it again to be honest, so while i'm there i'm looking for a best case fix it all too.
 
Thanks Dave! I was hoping that the updated pipe would in fact be good enough but I read a few other posts that had me worried. I bought the bike used (being a student) so I'm not too sure how the other owner treated it. Anyhow, I'm not terribly concerned about it, just wanted to know what to do if I had to fix it. One day when I change the oil I might pull the pan off as well just to check. Sorry to drag up an old topic one more time. Thanks again!
 
I'm happy that I have a little experience with this and have researched it enough to add 2 cents. Sean is the ultimate expert on this subject. I've learned a lot from him about this. I feel that what I've done with my bikes was the right way for each of them. If you guys with 03's and newer bikes want to do anything, Sean's Kawasaki O-Ring is the perfect, forever fix. Much more is overkill on your newer Max... JMHO


Added PS: As Sean has mentioned, even a popped O-Ring will not kill an engine during normal use. My 94 is proof of that. The Oil Pump is High Volume and the engine can survive... Motors used to an extreme will likely be damaged with the O-Ring popped out...
 
Thanks Dave! I was hoping that the updated pipe would in fact be good enough but I read a few other posts that had me worried. I bought the bike used (being a student) so I'm not too sure how the other owner treated it. Anyhow, I'm not terribly concerned about it, just wanted to know what to do if I had to fix it. One day when I change the oil I might pull the pan off as well just to check. Sorry to drag up an old topic one more time. Thanks again!

no need to apologize, getting ready to do this myself in the next couple weekends.

I'm happy that I have a little experience with this and have researched it enough to add 2 cents. Sean is the ultimate expert on this subject. I've learned a lot from him about this. I feel that what I've done with my bikes was the right way for each of them. If you guys with 03's and newer bikes want to do anything, Sean's Kawasaki O-Ring is the perfect, forever fix. Much more is overkill on your newer Max... JMHO


Added PS: As Sean has mentioned, even a popped O-Ring will not kill an engine during normal use. The Oil Pump is High Volume... Motors used to an extreme will likely be damaged with the O-Ring popped out...

you've helped out a ton lately dave, thanks so much!
 

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