Bike won’t go into neutral while running.

[Beau254]

It’s next to impossible to get my Vmax to go into neutral while running. Kill it & it snaps right in no problem! Any ideas? Anyone else experience this issue? I’ve been thinking of draining/changing clutch fluid. Maybe clutch is not quite fully engaging? Or I wondered if maybe the clutch cable may just need a little more adjustment? But if so, IDK how to begin adjusting it? Also considered the DD add a disc spring mod in the clutch.

 

[Beau254]

It’s kind of a pain because when you pull up to a red light you have to hold the clutch in the whole time. Can’t give your hand a rest. (Unless you kill it & snap it in neutral, then restart it again to take off on green.) But that’s a pain in the butt.

 

[Fire-medic]

Your clutch master cylinder and/or your slave cylinder are leaking, and need repair, or replacement. Bleeding it may buy you a bit of time, but it's not the 'fix' which you need. An overhaul kit for both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave cyl will run about $60. There are aftermarket suppliers for these like K&L, from a jobber like Parts Unlimited, but they aren't that-expensive from the Yamaha parts dealers online like Ron Ayres Motorsports or partzilla.


Push Lever Seal Kit

26H-W0098-00-00

Retail Price: $36.99

Your Price: $26.64


Cylinder Kit, Master (Clutch)

2KW-W0099-00-00

Retail Price: $39.99

Your Price: $30.94

Ron Ayres for both.

Read this thread and study the pics. 'Reverse-bleed,' to-win! I even tell you how to make your very-own cheap bleed tool after a visit to your local supermarket and the auto parts store, for probably a $20 outlay.

(62) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

(62) Leaky clutch master cylinder | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

 

[Beau254]

Your clutch master cylinder and/or your slave cylinder are leaking, and need repair, or replacement. Bleeding it may buy you a bit of time, but it's not the 'fix' which you need. An overhaul kit for both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave cyl will run about $60. There are aftermarket suppliers for these like K&L, from a jobber like Parts Unlimited, but they aren't that-expensive from the Yamaha parts dealers online like Ron Ayres Motorsports or partzilla.


Push Lever Seal Kit

26H-W0098-00-00

Retail Price: $36.99

Your Price: $26.64


Cylinder Kit, Master (Clutch)

2KW-W0099-00-00

Retail Price: $39.99

Your Price: $30.94

Ron Ayres for both.

Read this thread and study the pics. 'Reverse-bleed,' to-win! I even tell you how to make your very-own cheap bleed tool after a visit to your local supermarket and the auto parts store, for probably a $20 outlay.

(62) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

(62) Leaky clutch master cylinder | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

Thanks for all the info, but I don’t show any leakages. Fluid always stays @ the same level in the oil level sight glass. So then what now?

 

[desert_max]

The leakage is internal to one or both cylinders. Insufficient hydraulic pressure to fully disengage the clutch pack.

 

[user 16790]

I have no leaks on my bike and it also doesn't like to go into neutral all the time when stopping, what I do is ease the clutch lever out until the bike just begins to move, then pull the lever back in and then it will quickly go into neutral, I've had other bikes like this too and never knew why it was

 

[MaxMidnight]

Your clutch master cylinder and/or your slave cylinder are leaking, and need repair, or replacement.

IMO it is unwise to make such a statement without performing any diagnosis first.
If it was an internal leak then I would expect to see the fluid level reduce over time and clutch drag to develop.
As the questioner has not mention either of the above then at this stage I don't think a fluid leak is likely to be the problem.

Mr Beau 254, do you have the OE levers fitted? Also note that a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting and therefore none is possible.
Bleeding the system followed by tying the lever back over night should ensure that any air is removed and that you are getting maximum lift of the plates.
Check that the linkage ball joints are free and do not have excessive slop in them, Also check that the pivot is greased and the ever moves freely.
I may also be worthwhile trying adjusting the lever a bit higher or lower.
On mine lowering the tick-over speed helped.
I have read other owners report that using different oils can also make a difference.

If all else has failed then checking the selector adjustment.



This relates to an XS650 but the arrangement is similar on the Max.
I've not seen any feedback on this so can't say if it is an issue...but any port in a storm!

 

[gb.carson]

I have the same issue so would love to know the resolution to this.

 

[Fire-medic]

Max, the diagnosis is the problem mentioned, ("I have a problem shifting," and my pointing to the two major components involved in performing the shifting into neutral) and then the likely fix for it. While all those things you mentioned can affect shifting, I bet a pound for a porridge it's either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder, rather than missing star-segment pins on the end of the shift drum, or sloppy shifter ball-and-socket pieces, nor aftermarket levers (pronounced, lee'-vurs). Yes, occasionally a change in oil has shown to be beneficial, usually when the owner was skimping on providing his ride with appropriate motorcycle oil by using current formulations of low-viscosity automobile oils which do-not contain the proper friction modifiers for wet clutches. That's why I always mention to the members who haven't contributed their information, to give us the year of your bike in your signature line, so we have a better understanding of your starting point, or if the engine's been swapped, what year chassis, and what year engine? The other part of that, is a location for the member so someone nearby may assist, or can make a quality referral.

I am always impressed that the suggestions MaxMidnight offers are thoughtful and well laid-out and his emphasis on diagnosing things. However, even the references sometimes refer to 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity,' or something similar. Hence why Sean Morley's travelling electrical components kit solves so-many issues for owners. I'm not an advocate for artillery-use to solve issues, but for instance, most of us don't possess the electrical aptitude to search on a PC board for failed components, and then to effect a repair. Once you've progressed as-far as you can then sometimes it's 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity.' In the case of, "I cannot disengage properly my bike from being in-gear, to find neutral," the logical approach is to look at what controls your ability to shift.

 

[02GF74]

It is difficult to fix things at a distance so no suggestions should be thought of as bad.

My question is: has it always done this if not was anything changed or any work carried out immediately prior?

 

[Beau254]

It is difficult to fix things at a distance so no suggestions should be thought of as bad.

My question is: has it always done this if not was anything changed or any work carried out immediately prior?

The previous owner mentioned it always did this for him too. I think he or the original owner may have replaced the clutch cable @ some point. So I have wondered if it may just need a little more adjustment. But I’ve never adjusted one before.

 

[Fire-medic]

The previous owner mentioned it always did this for him too. I think he or the original owner may have replaced the clutch cable @ some point. So I have wondered if it may just need a little more adjustment. But I’ve never adjusted one before.

Hydraulic clutch operation, no cable/no 'adjustment.'

At this point and with this new info, you need to examine the clutch and its actuation from the clutch basket to the master cylinder. Something wasn't assembled properly, it appears.

 

[Beau254]

IMO it is unwise to make such a statement without performing any diagnosis first.
If it was an internal leak then I would expect to see the fluid level reduce over time and clutch drag to develop.
As the questioner has not mention either of the above then at this stage I don't think a fluid leak is likely to be the problem.

Mr Beau 254, do you have the OE levers fitted? Also note that a hydraulic clutch is self adjusting and therefore none is possible.
Bleeding the system followed by tying the lever back over night should ensure that any air is removed and that you are getting maximum lift of the plates.
Check that the linkage ball joints are free and do not have excessive slop in them, Also check that the pivot is greased and the ever moves freely.
I may also be worthwhile trying adjusting the lever a bit higher or lower.
On mine lowering the tick-over speed helped.
I have read other owners report that using different oils can also make a difference.

If all else has failed then checking the selector adjustment.

View attachment 77210

This relates to an XS650 but the arrangement is similar on the Max.
I've not seen any feedback on this so can't say if it is an issue...but any port in a storm!

Thanks for all the detailed info. You are correct. No clutch drag. & yes I have OE levers. I have no idea how long the clutch fluid has been in it, as I have been slowly doing a full service of all fluids/filters. But I don’t think it has any air in the line. Because the clutch doesn’t seem to be “spacey.” & it works flawlessly/smooth when it is not running. It’s when the bike is running that it won’t go in Neutral. Also it seems it takes a little more force to shift when the bike is running vs not running.

 

[Beau254]

Your clutch master cylinder and/or your slave cylinder are leaking, and need repair, or replacement. Bleeding it may buy you a bit of time, but it's not the 'fix' which you need. An overhaul kit for both the clutch master cyl and the clutch slave cyl will run about $60. There are aftermarket suppliers for these like K&L, from a jobber like Parts Unlimited, but they aren't that-expensive from the Yamaha parts dealers online like Ron Ayres Motorsports or partzilla.


Push Lever Seal Kit

26H-W0098-00-00

Retail Price: $36.99

Your Price: $26.64


Cylinder Kit, Master (Clutch)

2KW-W0099-00-00

Retail Price: $39.99

Your Price: $30.94

Ron Ayres for both.

Read this thread and study the pics. 'Reverse-bleed,' to-win! I even tell you how to make your very-own cheap bleed tool after a visit to your local supermarket and the auto parts store, for probably a $20 outlay.

(62) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

(62) Leaky clutch master cylinder | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)

Thanks for the tips!

 

[Beau254]

The leakage is internal to one or both cylinders. Insufficient hydraulic pressure to fully disengage the clutch pack.

Ah! Gotcha!

 

[Beau254]

Max, the diagnosis is the problem mentioned, ("I have a problem shifting," and my pointing to the two major components involved in performing the shifting into neutral) and then the likely fix for it. While all those things you mentioned can affect shifting, I bet a pound for a porridge it's either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder, rather than missing star-segment pins on the end of the shift drum, or sloppy shifter ball-and-socket pieces, nor aftermarket levers (pronounced, lee'-vurs). Yes, occasionally a change in oil has shown to be beneficial, usually when the owner was skimping on providing his ride with appropriate motorcycle oil by using current formulations of low-viscosity automobile oils which do-not contain the proper friction modifiers for wet clutches. That's why I always mention to the members who haven't contributed their information, to give us the year of your bike in your signature line, so we have a better understanding of your starting point, or if the engine's been swapped, what year chassis, and what year engine? The other part of that, is a location for the member so someone nearby may assist, or can make a quality referral.

I am always impressed that the suggestions MaxMidnight offers are thoughtful and well laid-out and his emphasis on diagnosing things. However, even the references sometimes refer to 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity,' or something similar. Hence why Sean Morley's travelling electrical components kit solves so-many issues for owners. I'm not an advocate for artillery-use to solve issues, but for instance, most of us don't possess the electrical aptitude to search on a PC board for failed components, and then to effect a repair. Once you've progressed as-far as you can then sometimes it's 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity.' In the case of, "I cannot disengage properly my bike from being in-gear, to find neutral," the logical approach is to look at what controls your ability to shift.

View attachment 77218

Sorry, It is a 1992. As far as I know all original. & I am located in Corpus Christi, TX.

 

[Beau254]

Thanks for all the detailed info. You are correct. No clutch drag. & yes I have OE levers. I have no idea how long the clutch fluid has been in it, as I have been slowly doing a full service of all fluids/filters. But I don’t think it has any air in the line. Because the clutch doesn’t seem to be “spacey.” & it works flawlessly/smooth when it is not running. It’s when the bike is running that it won’t go in Neutral. Also it seems it takes a little more force to shift when the bike is running vs not running.

The leakage is internal to one or both cylinders. Insufficient hydraulic pressure to fully disengage the clutch pack.

So why does the clutch work flawlessly when the engine is not running?

 

[MaxMidnight]

So why does the clutch work flawlessly when the engine is not running?

Pure guess work but as nothing is moving the things that need to align can do so easier and there is (possibly) less oil induced drag between the clutch plates.

One other trick is to select neutral just before you come to a halt.

Max, the diagnosis is the problem mentioned, ("I have a problem shifting," and my pointing to the two major components involved in performing the shifting into neutral) and then the likely fix for it. While all those things you mentioned can affect shifting, I bet a pound for a porridge it's either the master cylinder or the slave cylinder, rather than missing star-segment pins on the end of the shift drum, or sloppy shifter ball-and-socket pieces, nor aftermarket levers (pronounced, lee'-vurs). Yes, occasionally a change in oil has shown to be beneficial, usually when the owner was skimping on providing his ride with appropriate motorcycle oil by using current formulations of low-viscosity automobile oils which do-not contain the proper friction modifiers for wet clutches.

...even the references sometimes refer to 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity,' or something similar. ...Once you've progressed as-far as you can then sometimes it's 'replace the suspect unit with one of well-known operational capacity.' In the case of, "I cannot disengage properly my bike from being in-gear, to find neutral," the logical approach is to look at what controls your ability to shift.

Sorry to be pedantic but the issue is selecting neutral and not a general shifting problem which IMO would rule out many of the 'usual suspects' that you have mentioned.

I always advocate beginning with the basics as this is often the simplest and easiest place to start but is often overlooked.

I don't disagree with the 'substitution' method of diagnosis provided acquiring the parts to do so does not involve the expense of a purchase. To replace items without reasonable evidence that they are the causal part is a good way to burn money and end up with a lot of good spares.

One specification that would be useful but I have not seen is the amount of lift (or how far the the slave cylinder moves) that is normal when operating the clutch lever. Something I'll try to remember to measure if I ever need to open the clutch.

 

[redneksoldier]

Mine had the same issue with not being able to get neutral. The problem slowly got worse over the course of 3 years and was to the point the clutch would drag a small amount. Rebuilt clutch master and slave and bled, and bled,, and bled which solved nothing. Those are the most likely causes for this issue, but not the ONLY causes. Ended up replacing the clutch frictions and that solved the issue. Now it goes into neutral and every other gear just as smooth as butter. I guess they may have been warped just enough to cause some drag between the frictions and steels even with the lever pulled all the way. Night and day difference now and I do not have to pull the lever all the way to release the clutch.
On a side note, the clutch lever itself and brass pin can cause this issue as well if they are really worn. That has happened to me in the past as well.

 

[Mmmaxxy]

Mine does the same. Sometimes feels like clutch drag - happens more in the heat (although not much of that in Scotland ) I’ve just put it down to the tolerances the components are working to. Fine if we were talking a brand new bike but mine is a grand old 23yrs so I would expect a few things have worn. I does go into neutral but sometimes it’s a pain to find. But it’s a V Max so having checked the obvious - I just call it a quirk. He has his moods and I love them