Bike won’t go into neutral while running.

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Beau254

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Pure guess work but as nothing is moving the things that need to align can do so easier and there is (possibly) less oil induced drag between the clutch plates.

One other trick is to select neutral just before you come to a halt.



Sorry to be pedantic but the issue is selecting neutral and not a general shifting problem which IMO would rule out many of the 'usual suspects' that you have mentioned.

I always advocate beginning with the basics as this is often the simplest and easiest place to start but is often overlooked.

I don't disagree with the 'substitution' method of diagnosis provided acquiring the parts to do so does not involve the expense of a purchase. To replace items without reasonable evidence that they are the causal part is a good way to burn money and end up with a lot of good spares.

One specification that would be useful but I have not seen is the amount of lift (or how far the the slave cylinder moves) that is normal when operating the clutch lever. Something I'll try to remember to measure if I ever need to open the clutch.
Yes, I’ve always subscribed to the K.I.S.S. Strategy- starting with the simple things 1st. Because 9 times out of 10 when you dissect something major & start replacing parts that may or may not be needed it usually ends up being something simple you overlooked in the 1st place.
 

El Canadiense

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I had similar problems while travelling in Mexico on my old Gen 1. The clutch/slave cylinder was good. I took apart the clutch and found the clutch basket was notched and thd the discs would stick. I repaired the clutch basket to remove the notches with a small file and replaced the Barnett discs and plates. Heard stories about how this doesn't last but after 8 years, it is still going strong.
 

Beau254

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I had similar problems while travelling in Mexico on my old Gen 1. The clutch/slave cylinder was good. I took apart the clutch and found the clutch basket was notched and thd the discs would stick. I repaired the clutch basket to remove the notches with a small file and replaced the Barnett discs and plates. Heard stories about how this doesn't last but after 8 years, it is still going strong.
Basket?
 

Beau254

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A good catch on your clutch problem and the fix, do you have a recollection of the #/miles/km on the bike when it happened? That would be informational.
The bike is new to me. So came like this. But The previous owner of 2-3 years said it was always that way for him also. (The whole time.)
 

Fire-medic

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The bike is new to me. So came like this. But The previous owner of 2-3 years said it was always that way for him also. (The whole time.)
The clutch basket contains the clutch friction discs, plates, or rings (#9 'friction plates' on the fiche) which sit inside the outside perimeter of the clutch basket. Notches in the clutch basket perimeter mesh with tabs on the largest-diameter of the friction discs.

The 'steelies' ('clutch plates,' #10 in the fiche) which separate the friction discs/rings from each other, as everything is stacked-inside the clutch basket, have notches on their innermost dimension. Those notches fit-into similar notches in the clutch hub (called the 'clutch boss' part #3 in the fiche).

The clutch pressure plate in a VMax uses a diaphragm spring, shaped somewhat like a pie plate, to press the friction discs and 'steelies' together to transmit power from the engine to the gearbox.

If the clutch basket perimeter cutouts/notches aren't smooth, where the friction discs' outermost circumference tabs slide back and forth, the clutch has problems in operation. It may have excessive drag, and it may hang-up, and not release fully.

2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Clutch | Ron Ayers

VMax clutch.png
 
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02GF74

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What I understand El Canadiense saying is the the cut outs in the basket get notched by the plates.

Similar happens to Shinano freehubs but in reverse - imaging the clutch basket to be the freehub body with splines instead of notchets, the sprockets , eqiuvalent to the plates, sit on the splines and wear grooves in them.

1622147860243.png
 

Fire-medic

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What I understand El Canadiense saying is the the cut outs in the basket get notched by the plates.

Similar happens to Shinano freehubs but in reverse - imaging the clutch basket to be the freehub body with splines instead of notchets, the sprockets , eqiuvalent to the plates, sit on the splines and wear grooves in them.

View attachment 77302
Yep, similar issues. I have a Klein Attitude mountain bike with XTR gruppo, it's 30 years-old and I've replaced the gear stack, though the hub is OK. My Shimano Ultegra gruppo on my Litespeed frame has fared better.
 

02GF74

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Oooh, don't get me started on MTBs but now you mentioned it, here's my 1996 Proflex XP8 with DIY disc brake conversion and Marzocchi bomber forks - the forks have brackets to run twin discs!! - (mine has Shimano 4 pot callipers, probably the best brakes ever made and a breeze to bleed) - the brake mounts on the forks are non standard (not IS) so need an adapter like early gen 1 does for later callipers.

Early Kleins and Fat Chance (Yo Eddy) go for stupid amounts of ££££ over here.

Oh, the real afficionados will notice a modern Fox air shock fitted to the rear suspension.

1622150303366.png
 

Beau254

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I’ll have to inspect it for wear. If excessive wear is not present I was wondering if the DD clutch mod might help matters any?
 

Fire-medic

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I’ll have to inspect it for wear. If excessive wear is not present I was wondering if the DD clutch mod might help matters any?
I doubt issues with the properly-operating clutch spring has anything to do with it.

Not a fan of the DD modification unless you're drag-racing. The PCW single diaphragm spring with a heavier rating than OEM I think is a good choice. Honestly, the OEM spring has done a good job though I'm not a drag-racer.
 

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