Blue spot

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baloo681

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Hi got hold of some blue spots calipers. Do I really need to upgrade master cylinder.had conflicting advice
 
No your stocker is fine. Assuming you are referring to R1/R6 calipers.
 
The monoblock R1 calipers aren't much of an upgrade for the 93-07 forks (for which they are direct fit). They don't increase pad surface area and piston volume isn't much different either. The main advantage is the different pad type they typically come with. The downside is that the hose connection is 2" higher and 90 degrees rotated. The stock line length fits but bunches up so a -2" shorter line kit fits better. The gold versions are aluminum pistons with anti-stick coating and operation is a lot smoother with them.

To get an upgrade I would suggest a consideration for the Sumitomo calipers (6 piston) though they aren't as "pretty".
 
Seans 100% right IMHO, I got the R6 calipers for my Venture and briefly entertained putting them on the Vmax instead, but they just dont appear to offer much over the factory calipers after measuring pistons and figuring how much actual gain I would get over the stock calipers. The Venture really needed them, you guys should see the shitty brakes Yamaha put on the gen1 Ventures. They are linked and have two different size calipers. not ABS, just linked! LINKED!!! :ummm: Also the bikes not even 30 years old yet and I ALREADY HAVE TO REPLACE CALIPERS!!:clapping:

I went to Brakecrafters and noticed they had no Vmax stuff on the website so I called Mark and he did have all the stuff on hand. It was at my house two days later, pretty nicely priced for non-Chinese parts too, in fact I'm pretty sure Mark wont sell Chinese stuff. The riding season is pretty much over so I'll do the work over the winter and we'll know after the first thaw how well the freshly remade cylinders and HHs stop the beast. My expectations are high, I have read that a healthy stock Vmax brake system works quite well when equipped with HH pads.
 
Hi got hold of some blue spots calipers. Do I really need to upgrade master cylinder.had conflicting advice


don't need to, works fine with stock master, will stop on a dime with good braided lines & good pads. the master swap to the 14mm smaller master is to give more lever travel & "feel"....... the stock 5/8" bore master pushes more fluid per whatever increment of travel, so less "feel", it grabs quick, does not require alot of effort.

Another consideration when switching master cylinders is "how much other shit do I have to re-arrange to make this fit?" No other master cylinder will keep the mirror in the exact same spot, and it may not snug up to the switch housing as well.




The R1/R6/FZ1 calipers are made from a solid block of metal, instead of 2 halves bolted together like the stock calipers, to reduce/eliminate flex, equalling more squeeze.




Per some reading on R1/R6 forums, there are different advantages & disadvantages to the steel piston blue spots (R1/R6/FZ1) vs. the alloy piston gold spots (R1 SE?). In any case, either one is an improvement over the stock calipers.

Need I say more ?
 

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To get the best out of blue spots you do, IMHO, need to change the master cylinder.

This is due to how the lever ratio (how much an input force is amplified to provide a greater output force) changes depending on which m/c the calipers are paired with.

The R1 has a 14mm dia. M/C which gives a lever ratio of 33.5 with the blue spots.
This is slightly more than the Max set-up with the early @ 32.7 & later 32.8.

Couple blue spots with the Max M/C the lever ratio drops to 26.0 which will give a more wooden or dead feel to the brakes and a result greater effort will be required.
This is what I found when I fitted b-s's.
Changing to a 14mm m/c transformed the brakes.

Additionally I suspect that the blue spots are stiffer so more of the input pressure is transmitted to the pistons.
I've not experimented with friction material so can't comment on what difference that will makes.
 
I've really like the 6 piston calipers I run on my '92's m/c. I have Sean's adapters, SS lines and run HH pads which results in a 2 fingered operation for all the braking and more that I need running sticky Shinko Verge radials (On 18" Carrozzeria wheels).
I do run a 4 piston silver dot rear underslung on a 3" longer braced swingarm (Sean's) actuated by the stock rear m/c which has good enough feel and I have only ever locked it up under really hard braking or when I intentionally tried to lock to feel where the lockup point was.
 
It's a custom made part if you want to use a 4 piston setup. I usually keep these on hand for both top mount and bottom mount. Also for 280mm or 298mm rotors. It also includes the brake bar.
 

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