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Body Carburators replacement

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gavicool

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I will post the repair when I finished it...
But,so far I do not know why I can no swap needels,jets,bowls,..with the other bodys that I have...looks the same to me...
 

02GF74

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That looks bollocksed.

Not sure what alloy they are made from but it may be possible to build up the missing area using lumiweld. These are rodes that are applied like solder to aluminium and its alloys.

Aluminium is a good conductor of heat so you'll need a sizeable blowtorch or else put the body on top of a gas hob or BBQ. You'll need to strip out all things that can melt, namely rubber seals and washers and any plastic parts.
 

Fire-medic

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Yep, Jb, devcon, plastic metal will sort that no problem - maybe give it a sandblast around that area, put a big blob on, drill through the bracket - carefully...
I think a good way to approach it doing that, is to use some type of release-agent on a screw of the proper pitch. Place the screw into the fractured hole, then glop-on the bonding material. You might want to do several layers of it, you don't care what it looks-like, as you're gonna use a Dremel or hand files, or a milling machine, if you have access to one, to make the surface which you need. In this case, I believe that I'd go for a much-wider than stock casting for the build-up. More mass and more bonding-area means it should be stronger in-service.

Clean all surfaces where you wish the bonding to occur w/a solvent like acetone. You might consider making some shallow kerfs with a Dremel cut-off disc, to give some 'tooth' to the bonding agent you choose. I like JB Weld.

The idea of Lumiweld or some-other rod to solder to the potmetal of a carburetor reminds me of a story Jay Leno told about riding his helicopter turbine-powered motorcycle in stop-&-go traffic. Some guy in an expensive foreign luxury car pulled-up close behind him, and Jay saw the guy's plastic front fascia begin to sag and to melt, from the turbine's exhaust discharge. The TOT (turbine outlet temperature) is not-kind to thin plastic fascias! Likewise, I've seen the die-castings of potmetal carburetors sag in a similar fashion, once-heated w/a torch, instant junk! If it was my carburetor, I'd do the JB Weld.
 

Julian Tomkins

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when I've had parts like that break I have repaired them by super gluing the bits back together first, then I wrap it several times with some copper wire strands from an electric cord for reinforcement, then add a layer of jb weld or similar epoxy stuff all over it forcing it into the wire, then another layer of an epoxy over the top for extra strength and to create a smooth'ish finish
 

sdt354

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That looks bollocksed.

Not sure what alloy they are made from but it may be possible to build up the missing area using lumiweld. These are rodes that are applied like solder to aluminium and its alloys.
advocaluminium is a good conductor of heat so you'll need a sizeablYo

Though I would get another carb body, low heat, HTS2000 rods will work on this type of metal. You can get them on E-Bay, probably Amazon too.
 

gavicool

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Hi,t👏👏👏👏,thank you very much for your recomendations!!!very good advise of how to repair.
Like I coment before,I will go for the JB weld method,welding process in this kind of material is very tricky(maybe laser welding),because heat can deform the carb´s body... it is like to try to weld /repair a crak in the scoops,it´s must be do it by "profesionals",and that it´s not cheap eather..
My doubt is if I might use other carb bodys set instead...I have ones but apparently not all the carbs are the same,isn´t it?( I mean as a set,not indibidual,like each carb from a diferent bike..)

Thank´s for your coments
 

huw s

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Not all sets are the same? Interesting question, my haynes manual says the early vmax had smaller carbs - 34 instead of 35? Anyway, the spare set I have is two sets - looks like the a**se who sold them on ebay took two good ones and swapped in two seized screw ones.
Anyway, the differences? Well the only things I can see are some redundant ally in the float chamber, and some redundant lugs cast in at the sides of the main body. Dimensionally, they are the same, all jets are the same, the plates are the same, I can't see why they shouldn't work. That's not to say they're all the same though?
 

dannymax

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As far as US carbs go....All VMax 'sets' have the same configuration. All VMax sets are 35mm. There are minor jetting changes for later model Calif. carbs. as well as some add'l. emissions control

Sets can be swapped between bikes (an '85 set will work on an '07)

Jetting varies between USA, Canadian, EU, etc.

Individual carburetors are set up differently regarding fuel/vent inlet/outlet, throttle shaft, sync/throttle linkage, etc. and can not be swapped (example: a left rear carb will not work on the left front)
 

Fire-medic

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I think the VBoost manifold may have been differently-sized for the 1st year. As I recall, the 1st year model's exhaust headers had to be re-designed to meet EPA noise requirements, and to keep things the same, power-wise, the VBoost manifolds changed. Sean or dannymax may be able to confirm this.


From the above site, here is the info, p.2 of the VMax History: Lvlhead's Vmax - History Of The Yamaha Vmax
 

huw s

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As far as US carbs go....All VMax 'sets' have the same configuration. All VMax sets are 35mm. There are minor jetting changes for later model Calif. carbs. as well as some add'l. emissions control

Sets can be swapped between bikes (an '85 set will work on an '07)

Jetting varies between USA, Canadian, EU, etc.

Individual carburetors are set up differently regarding fuel/vent inlet/outlet, throttle shaft, sync/throttle linkage, etc. and can not be swapped (example: a left rear carb will not work on the left front)
Interesting - yes I see jetting can vary, at least all my carbs have the same jets. What about carburetors set up differently? Yes the throttle shafts are different, and the fuel inlets are mostly different, but what else? Really - is this just myth? No1 looks identical to No4, except for the fuel inlet? Nothing that couldn't be changed?
 

huw s

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I think the VBoost manifold may have been differently-sized for the 1st year. As I recall, the 1st year model's exhaust headers had to be re-designed to meet EPA noise requirements, and to keep things the same, power-wise, the VBoost manifolds changed. Sean or dannymax may be able to confirm this.


From the above site, here is the info, p.2 of the VMax History: Lvlhead's Vmax - History Of The Yamaha Vmax
Yes it was, I have one here, definately smaller inside diameter.
 

gentsvmax

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Hello gavicool, from what you show there of the side plate threads hole damage, I wouldnt worry
at all about it. The integral strength of the top ,bottom and side plates combined along with being
seated in the carb boots to your stg7 manifolds is plenty of modular holding power. No danger of
miss-alignment of linkages etc.
Could you show other pic angles of the flange chamber cover damage?
As for air corrector removal, I have used a good clean screw extractor( easy-out) turned in just enough
to finesse the little brass out. In fact getting them out so easy made me lightly prick punch the bore
when I re-installed them for fear of the possibility of a carb cough or back fire blowing them out of
the bore. Probably why Sean says to put a dab of super glue on for install.
 

dannymax

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Interesting - yes I see jetting can vary, at least all my carbs have the same jets. What about carburetors set up differently? Yes the throttle shafts are different, and the fuel inlets are mostly different, but what else? Really - is this just myth? No1 looks identical to No4, except for the fuel inlet? Nothing that couldn't be changed?
The #2 carb has a mounting boss for the choke lever.
 

huw s

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The #2 carb has a mounting boss for the choke lever.
Yes (without checking) - there are obvious differences, but are there any hidden ones - like for instance wider throttle shaft bosses, that are potentially hidden underneath return springs? I think otherwise the throttle shafts would swap, and the fuel inlets could be persuaded out, making some swaps doable?
 

gavicool

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Hello gavicool, from what you show there of the side plate threads hole damage, I wouldnt worry
at all about it. The integral strength of the top ,bottom and side plates combined along with being
seated in the carb boots to your stg7 manifolds is plenty of modular holding power. No danger of
miss-alignment of linkages etc.
Could you show other pic angles of the flange chamber cover damage?
As for air corrector removal, I have used a good clean screw extractor( easy-out) turned in just enough
to finesse the little brass out. In fact getting them out so easy made me lightly prick punch the bore
when I re-installed them for fear of the possibility of a carb cough or back fire blowing them out of
the bore. Probably why Sean says to put a dab of super glue on for install.
Hello gentsmax,thank you for your recomendations..I will add some pictures regarding the chanber cover damage(the thread is damage in one of the screws,I have to put a nut behind in order to tight the cover...I will use a *helicoil to fix the thread damage)..pic´s on the way...
Thank you for the air corrector removal instructions...you mean to use this type of tool for removal,isnt´it?..sorry for the translation...
 

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Fire-medic

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Yes, that should do it. A small sheet metal screw with a fine pitch of threads could also substitute.
 

gavicool

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Yes (without checking) - there are obvious differences, but are there any hidden ones - like for instance wider throttle shaft bosses, that are potentially hidden underneath return springs? I think otherwise the throttle shafts would swap, and the fuel inlets could be persuaded out, making some swaps doable?
Hello;
Continuing with this issue(I do not like things "open"..) I consult this with Yamaha Customer Service,their answer is ;
A)My bike 86´ was fitted with BDS35-VMax, Cassis model code 1UT0 , ( ACCORDING TO HAYNES MANUAL DBS 34 ??????!!),to get there,Yamaha ask me for the Chassis Number.
B)About the differences betwen DBS34 and DBS 35,I "copy and paste" their answer;
"We cannot, however, search for the BDS34 carbs separately. We can only search from bike model or chassis number. As a result, we cannot list the differences between the carbs.

If the bike model from which the BDS34 are taken from is provided, we may be able to list the differences."

So,I think,maybe Mr.Haynes made a mistake in the carb tech. data,according to his manual,bikes from 85 to 92 fit DBS34 and from 93 to 03 fit DBS35,it maybe be the opposite,maybe not,...but according to the YAMAHA Service Manual the information in Haynes manual about it is correct.
I will send anothe email to Yamaha Customer Service with this pic(maybe info in Yamaha manual is incorrect...)

I will let you know their answer.
 

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Fire-medic

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Since #'s start at 101, yours is the 208th bike made that year for your market, see the tag for which market that is. As far as I know, the USA carbs were all 35 mm.
 

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