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I did the fronts and clutch first, then the rear when I rebuilt the bike
DMAN999
Well-Known Member
If I replaced the front brake line, I'd do the clutch line at the same time just because.
Each part can be done on it's own though many do all of the lines as part of an upgrade as well as a cosmetic benefit. I have a few used lines as well as new stuff.
No problem at all. Get what you can when you can. Each system is indivudally run so you don't have to buy multiple positions if you don't want to (or need to spread it out).
Redbone
Well-Known Member
I did mine like Tim, Front brakes and clutch and then the rear brake when I did a major upgrade.
For the front brakes I went with 2 lines from the caliper to the master cylinder foregoing the two line to the factory junction under the headlight and then the one from the junction to the master cylinder; less places a leak could happen or air to get into the system was my thinking.
For the front brakes I went with 2 lines from the caliper to the master cylinder foregoing the two line to the factory junction under the headlight and then the one from the junction to the master cylinder; less places a leak could happen or air to get into the system was my thinking.
Bill Seward
Well-Known Member
I did mine the same way. 2 long lines directly to calipers from master. Used one of those big floor mounted vacuum bleeders and did the job in an hour..
Traumahawk
Well-Known Member
Ive always been told that the 2 lines are easier to bleed, and the 1 line that splits, like the factory line, can be a B*tch to bleed some times.
wildweasel_pt
Well-Known Member
I prefer the cleaner look of the loop around fender
Are you guys talking about something like this, that bypasses the stock housing under the headlight??
https://www.powersportsplace.com/pa...king-systems&gclid=CMis96Kq580CFQ9ZhgodeiALDg
https://www.powersportsplace.com/pa...king-systems&gclid=CMis96Kq580CFQ9ZhgodeiALDg
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
Agreed. It's what I run.
I used a fancy reverse injection tool to bleed my setup when everything was new. I was shocked at how easily it went.
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
That appears to be a 3 line setup similar to OEM. 1 line from the master to the splitter. 2 lines from the splitter down to calipers.
Theses guys are talking about a 2 line setup. You have 2 lines that attach direct from the caliper to the master cylinder.
I've heard that us the most efficient setup.
As Fred mentioned, I prefer a setup that jumps over the front fender. Many sport bikes have it. 1 line from the master to the first caliper. Double banjo at the caliper and thr second line jumps over the fender. It looks cleaner up at the handlebars IMO.
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[email protected]
Well-Known Member
carrizog60
Well-Known Member
i have the front brake done,but is there any major benefit in doing the clutch or even the rear brake?
wont rear brake turn to sensitive and lock the wheel?
wont rear brake turn to sensitive and lock the wheel?
[email protected]
Well-Known Member
No major benefit. Unless your existing lines are getting old I'd save the money for something more useful.
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Redbone
Well-Known Member
I did not find it more sensitive even when adding HH pads to the original brake setup with larger rotor(298mm). I now run a R1 dual piston caliper on a 282 mm rotor with HH pads on a braided line, but I have a 200 width radial on the back now. I've ever only locked it up when I was testing the limit of braking grip and I could push pretty hard before it locked up.
racerboy
Well-Known Member
Just remember gang, depending on which clutch line kit you get, most of the kits have a super small adapter orifice that sits between the line and OEM pipe coming up from the master cylinder, this orifice is round and is used for a good seal between fittings. I could not find the orifice at 1st, its kinda small.
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