Can’t find neutral at a stop.

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FunnyBones

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Hey all! I have a 1990 VMax (Japanese version, I live in Japan). I’m having an issue when I come to a stop light. At a complete stop, I can’t shift up into neutral from 1st. But if I shift down to 1st while moving I am able to find neutral. Anyone have any idea how I can fix it. Any help is welcomed.
 
The newer star segment (shift drum) is a better design, and fixes a weak point known to exist upon earlier VMaxes. I'm not saying this is your problem, but it could help. 1990 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12A) Shift Cam Fork | Ron Ayers

Though this is the 1990 fiche, the shift drum ass'y. is the updated one. Replacement of the entire shift drum requires splitting the engine cases. The star segment is the ass'y. on the end of the shift drum which doesn't require splitting the cases to replace. Contact Sean Morley [email protected] for buying just the star segment updated shift ass'y.
 
Various suggestions from different oils to reducing the tick over speed (which is what I'd try first).

If you want to did deeper it may be worthwhile checking the gear change claw adjustment.

Clutch Adjustment1.jpg
 
Unfortunately, the gear claw is fixed and not adjustable.

Check shifter lever adjustment. If too low, it will bind. I had that issue when I tried positioning it like a rearset setup. I've also had strange things or lever feel change with a bad slave cylinder. Make sure bleeder valve is sealed...could be internal seal as well.

IMG_7611.jpg
 
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Try replacing and bleeding the clutch hydraulic fluid. A small air lock could result in the slave cylinder not releasing the clutch fully and having it drag so you can’t find neutral at a stop. (Does the clutch engage with the lever just slightly off the handlebar?) The XS650 was notorious for the dragging clutch and in many cases the only solution was to slip it into neutral just before coming to a stop.
 
Try replacing and bleeding the clutch hydraulic fluid. A small air lock could result in the slave cylinder not releasing the clutch fully and having it drag so you can’t find neutral at a stop. (Does the clutch engage with the lever just slightly off the handlebar?) The XS650 was notorious for the dragging clutch and in many cases the only solution was to slip it into neutral just before coming to a stop.
A good reason to perform a 'reverse-bleed.' You're pushing any air in the fluid of the clutch in the direction physics tells it to go. 'Bubbles rise.' Usually though, when there is air not fully-purged from the system, the lever travels closer-to the handlebar before reaching the friction point and releasing.
 
This will likely fail to impress after the great guidance here already, but when I feel my shifting getting finicky I change oil. That elusive stoplight neutral is my first clue and fresh oil reduces the issue to the point of it being a non-issue. Normally I change oil around 2500-3000 mi often using this symptom as a guide.

I flush and bleed DOT every couple years but this year I'll try the reverse bleed method too.
 

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