Can't get neutral when engine running

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HeckticHaze

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I just purchased a 2007 V-max. It has about 6500 miles on it. Was not run for about 2 years. I have put about 600 Miles on it since I got it. With the engine running, stopped, clutch in, and in 1st gear I cannot get the bike in neutral. Shut the bike off and no problem finding neutral. I could get neutral running when I first got the bike. Any ideas? Waiting on service manual before tearing into it.
 
do a light blip of the throttle just just before you click neutral, or let the clutch lever out a bit to slight engagement then back in again before quickly going into neutral
 
A common complaint. Sometimes an oil change is all that's needed. Rotella 15-40 NON-SYNTHETIC is quite popular in these engines.

How's the clutch fluid look? Maybe it's time to replace it and bleed the system..
 
You can also crack the bleeder on the slave to see if there is a tiny bubble trapped there
 
Julian and mabdcmb thank you for the reply. I have not changed the oil. I need to do that. Do you know if I can use Yamahalube conventional oil 20W-50 in this bike? I have some for my 82 Seca 750 I keep on hand. I looked up the Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 conventional oil and it said it was for diesel engines and farm equipment. Julian I will also try what you stated above next time I have the bike out. Question, on this forum if you have a different issue you would like to ask questions on do you start a brand new post under the bike system listed (this one was under "motor") or just continue with the post you started?
 
One2dmax thank you for the advice. This is my first bike with a hydraulic clutch. I will have to find the bleeder port you are speaking of. Does this hydraulic system use DOT4 fluid? I can't remember if DOT4 is as caustic as DOT3 hydraulic fluid.
 
yes DOT4. and yes the Rotella T4 is great in that bike. Heavy duty. Intended for diesel. You are correct. as for your other problem...are the brake and clutch levers OEM?
 
"Child of fire" I am not sure if the levers are stock on the bike. Is there something distinct I can look for on the lever that will tell me if the are stock or 3rd party levers? I'll look. Maybe is says Yamaha on them.
 
stock are usually dull metallic and basic with no adjuster on them. the reason i ask is because if the lever is after market and the adjustment isnt correct it is easily fixed by adjusting the lever outward. if they are stock they are adjusted at the cable.
 
My vmax was starting to do the same thing, have you bleed them? Having air in the line was part the problem with mine. Also when was the last time you changed out the dot 4 as it breaks down over time and water can get in over a period of time sitting if in a damp garage. Last but not least is could be the clutch plates , maybe on their last legs. I also did the clutch as when it got hot it was harder to find neutral and slipping. I put a new barnett clutch kit carbon fiber with the cool Barnett pressure plate. Looking for the clear clutch cover now .
 
Looks like the levers are stock. I should be receiving my shop manual next week. Hopefully it has something on the hydraulic clutch adjustment.

I am not sure how much preventative maintenance was done on the bike. It sounds like I may need to go through the systems next spring. I want to get the oil changed and see if that helps. I need to look at bleeding the hydraulic clutch system too. The bike is stored in a garage with no heat or electricity. Not sure how much I will get accomplished this year.
 
This is off subject but I have been looking at posts regarding winterization of the bike. How imperative is it to turn the bike on to run the fuel pump every few weeks? Someone said there are rubber parts that will dry up if you do not keep fuel in the carbs. I was going to pull the battery and bring it inside for the winter. I was just going to drain the bowls after running some stabilizer through the carbs, change the oil, drop a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, and clean the bike before storing.
 
This is off subject but I have been looking at posts regarding winterization of the bike. How imperative is it to turn the bike on to run the fuel pump every few weeks? Someone said there are rubber parts that will dry up if you do not keep fuel in the carbs. I was going to pull the battery and bring it inside for the winter. I was just going to drain the bowls after running some stabilizer through the carbs, change the oil, drop a teaspoon of oil in each cylinder, and clean the bike before storing.
I think you're on the right track with stabilizer and draining carbs. Mine have given me fits by letting it sit too long even tho I ran the pump fairly often. I should have been draining out the old gas. A teaspoon of oil won't accomplish anything in the angled cylinders though.
 
but if you do find it you should be able to make your BANDIT much smoother :D
 
Start the motorcycle up. With it cold put it in first gear or second gear whatever gear you're having trouble with blip the throttle while trying to push selector into neutral. If it slides into gear after you blip the throttle it could be one of two things clutch not adjusted correctly or too high viscosity of engine oil.
Get the bike to full operating temperature do the same thing. If you blip the throttle and it slides into gear easier then cold your oils too thick or it is cold if the problem is the same there is a problem with the adjustment of the clutch or a problem with the clutch plates
 
There is no "adjustment" on a stock vmax clutch and stock levers.
Change the oil
Check clutch fluid. If dark and murky, change it and bleed it.

Should be no issue with storing the bike as you mention.
 
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