Can't sync the carbs...

[Zenuwlijer]

Does it smell of more fuel than usual?

Yes

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Does it usually start with the "choke" on all the way?

Yes

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Will it matter if I reduce idle speed before trying to start again?

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Should I put the airbox on again before trying to start again?

 

[Fire-medic]

Should I put the airbox on again before trying to start again?

Re-read posts #96 & 99.

 

[patate657]

As long as they can vent without the risk of anything getting into the tubes and back down into the fuel bowl it shouldn't really matter.

The whole idea behind running them to the filter box was that so any fuel vapor that escapes gets burnt through the engine rather than just venting into the atmosphere.

I wouldn't think it would make any real difference in mileage.

One more question and I'll leave you all alone. It seems that the fuel line I put on, from the pump to the Carbs, is not working right. Should there be a special line? One that's strong enough to go over the brace and not bend? If I remember right, the one that was on there was a reddish fiber covered line. Pleaseeee...

 

[patate657]

A stock/bike w/o the airbox will run very badly. My '89 would barely start. The only time I was successful was with air correctors inserted in the main air jets.

Found that out the other day on mine.

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Re-read posts #96 & 99.

Sorry, I thought those were replies to "the other guy".

@patate657 maybe start your own topic?

 

[patate657]

Sorry, I thought those were replies to "the other guy".

@patate657 maybe start your own topic?

Okay sorry guys. Guess I'm cluttering this thread up. Will do...

 

[Fire-medic]

As long as the line is the proper I.D. and it doesn't collapse at a point where it bends, almost any gas line should work. The 'fuel-injection' line is often cloth-covered. I have seen cheap, non-reinforced gas line will 'go-oval' when it's bent, because it doesn't have resistance to deforming in its I.D. If the line is folded too-much, you could end-up with a 'pinch-restriction.' The plastic, transparent fuel line with what I assume to be woven nylon reinforcement is pretty-stiff. I like to use a 'fuel-injection hose clamp' instead of the traditional stainless steel hose clamps with the semi-circular holes which the worm-drive gear runs-upon, the latter style tends to lacerate the hose material, especially if they are over-tightened.

 

[Parminio]

One more question and I'll leave you all alone. It seems that the fuel line I put on, from the pump to the Carbs, is not working right. Should there be a special line? One that's strong enough to go over the brace and not bend? If I remember right, the one that was on there was a reddish fiber covered line. Pleaseeee...

Just good quality fuel line. If it's kinking that badly then you either have it poorly routed or it's so thin walled that it's collapsing. It shouldn't be that big a deal.

 

[Zenuwlijer]

I've been busy....

Put on the airbox.

Set idle speed screw close to "nothing".

Started the bike with ful choke.

Let it warm up a little bit and played wit the choke and idle speed.

When it finally didn't die anymore when decreasing (and ultimately killing) the choke, I started a very very lengthy tuning session.

It was a very delicate mix between the idle speed screw and the syncronising screws.

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Start:
View attachment PXL_20210719_145325352.mp4

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Finish:

View attachment PXL_20210719_150613507.mp4

 

[Zenuwlijer]

A very warm and special thanks for the ones kind enough to guide a grand new amateur through this process!

Respect.

 

[Parminio]

Well done! Way to stick with it and work it out!

 

[Screwloose]

A very warm and special thanks for the ones kind enough to guide a grand new amateur through this process!

Respect.

Well done mate, you are now an expert on VMax carbs, way superior to your so called mechanic. Your readings of 20 on the Carbtune are where you want to be.

Unfortunately you are now the new official faultfinder for the forum, congratulations

Adjust the A/F screws now, there are plenty of people on here can help with that one., you may smooth the engine out even further after the adjustment, but do not worry if you do not as it's running good.

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Well done! Way to stick with it and work it out!

If only you knew...

I'm a 45 year old guy with ADHD. Normally I couldn't set myself to do anything, just because of the simple fact that I can't concentrate.

But with the Vmax.. I tend to go into a state of "hyperfocus" (because of the meds).

My wife and kids only saw me running around the past two days.

"I'm busy."
"Very important stuff."
"See you when it's done."

 

[Zenuwlijer]

Adjust the A/F screws

I'll do that. First I have to go for a 120 mile ride to Hyperpro on Wednesday. (240 total)

After that, I can inspect the newly placed sparkplugs which I have set to 0,7 mm because of the COP's modification I did 3 years ago.

I am and have been running 2 3/4 on all four A/F screws. Normally this would be too rich as per the data provided by Haynes. (2 1/4)

 

[Screwloose]

I'll do that. First I have to go for a 120 mile ride to Hyperpro on Wednesday. (240 total)

After that, I can inspect the newly placed sparkplugs which I have set to 0,7 mm because of the COP's modification I did 3 years ago.

I am and have been running 2 3/4 on all four A/F screws. Normally this would be too rich as per the data provided by Haynes. (2 1/4)

The manual is a good starting point, but I find on old engines with a bit of wear the A/F screws can turn slightly further out to smooth individual carbs. Okay we will not go there just now. Enjoy your ride.