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KosRider
Well-Known Member
Hey Npthayer,
From the Radio Shack shims I have left over from my project, I've got six shims at 0.019" and four shims at 0.020" I can send you if you like. Send me a PM with your address if you want them. Or stop by a Radio Shack store and get a whole bag for like $2.99 to get a wider range of specific thicknesses. With needle shims added, don't forget that you'll need to shim the cap that holds the needle in the same amount so it doesn't bind. I ended up using o-rings on the cap that worked just fine, as long as the cap wasn't overtightened.
From the Radio Shack shims I have left over from my project, I've got six shims at 0.019" and four shims at 0.020" I can send you if you like. Send me a PM with your address if you want them. Or stop by a Radio Shack store and get a whole bag for like $2.99 to get a wider range of specific thicknesses. With needle shims added, don't forget that you'll need to shim the cap that holds the needle in the same amount so it doesn't bind. I ended up using o-rings on the cap that worked just fine, as long as the cap wasn't overtightened.
I will stop by Radio Shack and see if I can find them, if not I will get ahold of you. I have read on here that you have Marks 4-2 as well, seeing as your from MI too, what did you shim your needles to and how many turns on your a/f screws?
KosRider
Well-Known Member
Yea, I'm only about 50 minutes north of you in Midland now; originally from Flint. Love the Marks as I'm sure you will too. Had to tone the exhaust music down some by adding some baffels, but they're still plenty loud enough ! Here's what I ended up doing:
Made the recommended changes: 1) set the A/F screws to 3.5 turns out and 2) shimmed the carb needles to 0.038? (used two #4 steel flat washers, that mic?d in at 0.019? each, from the Radio Shack assortment pkg #64-3022) Also found that you can use a #7 (1/2 x 3/8 x 1/16) o-ring as a spacer under the head of the plastic retaining screw (the screw with the slot for a flat head screwdriver) to keep the shimmed needle from pinching when the plastic retaining screw is tightened. Just don?t over tighten to force the o-ring out; I think the next time I'm into the carbs, I'm going to use the next size smaller o-ring (#6?) so it doesn't squeeze out at all.
Also, I've got a set of Carb-tune vaccumm gauges to sync the carbs if you don't have anything to do this. Very easy to do; takes about 10 - 15 min.
Made the recommended changes: 1) set the A/F screws to 3.5 turns out and 2) shimmed the carb needles to 0.038? (used two #4 steel flat washers, that mic?d in at 0.019? each, from the Radio Shack assortment pkg #64-3022) Also found that you can use a #7 (1/2 x 3/8 x 1/16) o-ring as a spacer under the head of the plastic retaining screw (the screw with the slot for a flat head screwdriver) to keep the shimmed needle from pinching when the plastic retaining screw is tightened. Just don?t over tighten to force the o-ring out; I think the next time I'm into the carbs, I'm going to use the next size smaller o-ring (#6?) so it doesn't squeeze out at all.
Also, I've got a set of Carb-tune vaccumm gauges to sync the carbs if you don't have anything to do this. Very easy to do; takes about 10 - 15 min.
I have the shims on hand too. BUT, our kit includes a set of 4 to make the half adjustments.
Sean
Sean
KosRider
Well-Known Member
Yea, very easy to do. I did as Redbone suggested - lay out the Mark's first to see how they go together; (he has pics in one of his posts on this.) Oh - before you put your Mark's on, someone on the forum was asking for the weight of the total Mark's exhaust system compared to the stock system coming off; to see what the weight savings are. Appreciate if you could weight both systems so we know ? I forgot to do this. I know the stock system is very heavy coming off. ) Removing the stock exhaust system was actually harder than installing the Mark's !
As you put the exhaust system on, keep all the bolts / nuts loose until the whole system is on. The only hard part to installing the Mark's, getting the back cyl flange nuts on & tightened with the allen / hexagon wrench. I went and got a SS metric acorn nut that my metric wrench fit on to tighten. Others made a special allen tool to be able to tighten the allen nut.
The heat shield with the stock system - won't go on with the Mark's system; just keep it off ( no problem doing this) & keep it with the stock system. There are several post under the exhaust section in the past 1-2 yrs that have good info in installing Mark's pipes. Have Fun ! :clapping:
As you put the exhaust system on, keep all the bolts / nuts loose until the whole system is on. The only hard part to installing the Mark's, getting the back cyl flange nuts on & tightened with the allen / hexagon wrench. I went and got a SS metric acorn nut that my metric wrench fit on to tighten. Others made a special allen tool to be able to tighten the allen nut.
The heat shield with the stock system - won't go on with the Mark's system; just keep it off ( no problem doing this) & keep it with the stock system. There are several post under the exhaust section in the past 1-2 yrs that have good info in installing Mark's pipes. Have Fun ! :clapping:
You are going to Love your Mark's System. Make sure you have the spring tabs on the pipes in the right position as you assemble. Don't end up with one toward the inside and one toward the outside... Stainless Springs hold the joints together and will be somewhat hidden when assembled correctly.......
Heres the pics as promised. They were taken with my phone so they are kinda poor quality. When its a nice sunny day, I will take some better pics with a better camera. The first pic is of when I first brought her home, completely bone stock.
Installing the Marks pipes was surprisingly easy, only PITA was getting the inner rear cylinder bolts. I ended up using Eagle One wadding polish to polish up the cans and just sprayed windex on the pipes to remove any fingerprints. I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. Just gotta tear into the carbs and check float levels, shotgun method, shim the needles, and adjust A/F screws.
I don't have a scale on hand to check the weight difference between Mark's exhaust vs. stock exhaust so I just winged it and guesstimated. On the box, when I received my Marks, said it weighed 30 lbs. and I'm guessing the stock exhaust roughly weighs around 45 - 55 lbs. So I'm thinking ballpark is anywhere between 15 - 25 lbs lost, give or take a few:ummm:
Here is a rundown of what I have done/ will do this winter/spring season:
Flanders drag bar
D3 grips and bar ends
CRG bar end mirrors
Harlan shift light
COO Top mount bracket (waiting to receive)
V-rod headlight (waiting to receive brackets)
Motorcycle Mods tail light (waiting to receive)
Mini Signals
Metzler MME880's w/dynabeads
Progressive Fork springs 2" lower
Progressive 440's 12.5"
COP's
Mark's Exhaust
Maxgasser Seat
Odyssey PC680
S/S Galfer front, rear, and clutch lines (waiting to receive)
DD Clutch mod (waiting to receive parts)
EBC brake pads (waiting to receive)
Coolant flush
I think thats it......
Alot of time and money spent but its going to all be worth it once I hit the open road
unk:
Installing the Marks pipes was surprisingly easy, only PITA was getting the inner rear cylinder bolts. I ended up using Eagle One wadding polish to polish up the cans and just sprayed windex on the pipes to remove any fingerprints. I'm pretty pleased with how they turned out. Just gotta tear into the carbs and check float levels, shotgun method, shim the needles, and adjust A/F screws.
I don't have a scale on hand to check the weight difference between Mark's exhaust vs. stock exhaust so I just winged it and guesstimated. On the box, when I received my Marks, said it weighed 30 lbs. and I'm guessing the stock exhaust roughly weighs around 45 - 55 lbs. So I'm thinking ballpark is anywhere between 15 - 25 lbs lost, give or take a few:ummm:
Here is a rundown of what I have done/ will do this winter/spring season:
Flanders drag bar
D3 grips and bar ends
CRG bar end mirrors
Harlan shift light
COO Top mount bracket (waiting to receive)
V-rod headlight (waiting to receive brackets)
Motorcycle Mods tail light (waiting to receive)
Mini Signals
Metzler MME880's w/dynabeads
Progressive Fork springs 2" lower
Progressive 440's 12.5"
COP's
Mark's Exhaust
Maxgasser Seat
Odyssey PC680
S/S Galfer front, rear, and clutch lines (waiting to receive)
DD Clutch mod (waiting to receive parts)
EBC brake pads (waiting to receive)
Coolant flush
I think thats it......
Alot of time and money spent but its going to all be worth it once I hit the open road
unk:Attachments
Redbone
Well-Known Member
Looks great Nate and you'll love the sound for sure! A nice list of mods you added, they will greatly add to the Vmax experience.
I can hardly wait to see it in late June and/or early July when I'll be back in the old stomping grounds.unk:I
'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to get Jeff to join us for a ride!
I can hardly wait to see it in late June and/or early July when I'll be back in the old stomping grounds.
unk:I'm sure it wouldn't be too hard to get Jeff to join us for a ride!
KosRider
Well-Known Member
Looks Great Nate.
As Redbone said - wouldn't be hard to talk me into riding south for a summer V-Max ride ! :eusa_dance:
Maybe we can get 2Fear, Wildman & BeeKeeper to join us from the west side of the state too! Keep us posted.
As Redbone said - wouldn't be hard to talk me into riding south for a summer V-Max ride ! :eusa_dance:
Maybe we can get 2Fear, Wildman & BeeKeeper to join us from the west side of the state too! Keep us posted.
Thanks for the compliments fellas.
Fired up the bike as soon as I got home from work today..... :surprise:
Very Nice! :eusa_dance:
Brian mentioned riding this way for the VMOA rally in Paw Paw, would be cool if we could meet up and ride out to the rally.
Dave, it would be a long ride but your more than welcome to join :biglaugh:
Fired up the bike as soon as I got home from work today..... :surprise:
Very Nice! :eusa_dance:
Brian mentioned riding this way for the VMOA rally in Paw Paw, would be cool if we could meet up and ride out to the rally.
Dave, it would be a long ride but your more than welcome to join :biglaugh:
06VMAXIMUS
Well-Known Member
Looks good Nate! How do you like the sound of the Marks, and have you tried out the Maxgasser yet?
Redbone
Well-Known Member
It still is the plan, I may even try to make it down a few days early to visit with friends and family in Flushing.
The VMOA Paw Paw event is July 8-10 so that would put me in the area on the 6th. Let's pick out a place to meet Wednesday/ Thursday night for a quick ride or just grab a sandwich and BS.
Thanks Bob. I love the sound, just the deep rumble I was looking for. Love the Maxgasser as well, but haven't had the chance to take it out for a ride just yet. Just been sitting on it in the garage acting like I'm riding :biglaugh:
Do you happen to know where at in Paw Paw the event is being held?
Originally Posted by npthayer: Dave, it would be a long ride but your more than welcome to join
The mind is willing, the body's not able... I rode about 100 miles today, it feels like it was a thousand....:sad2: Thanx for asking Though.:biglaugh:
Redbone
Well-Known Member
It is held at the Ecoolodge in Paw Paw, MI. July 8,9,10th, 2011.
Brian Nash is the VMOA contact person. [email protected]
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