Carburator Flooding

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stevewhowell

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I recently purchased a 2006 w/13k miles. I removed, cleaned and put "New" Airflow Adjustment screws in and mounted the Carbs: When I turn the key I hear the pump come as usual, but Gas overflows out of the long hose that's attached to top of Right/Rear (as you sit on bike) Carburator. Can anyone help?
 
It sounds like a stuck float. You can "tap" on the side of the offending carb with a screw driver handle, and that should knock out the crap stuck in the float.
 
Thanks for replying, I was beginning to think I was doing something wrong with the blog thingy. I tried tapping the side with a rubber mallet with no results. Also removed diaphragm cover and blow air into the hose where the gas came from (On top of carb that runs up and attaches under scoops) but it just pushed more gas out of hole where Diaphragm needle goes.
 
You could blow air into the inlet pipe on the top of the offending carb after removing the fuel line, but you might need some other clamps to ensure that you didn't just blow air into all of them. You might also try rocking the bike back and forth to see if sloshing the fuel around in the bowls will do it. Or you could just pull the carbs off out the side of the bike, shake them, and put them back in without really removing the throttle cables.
 
Not trying to hijack this post, but this may be relevant..

On the float needles. The tip of those valves needles, seems to be made of rubber..
If it is, how long would a rubber stopper last (in years), being subjected to gasoline, impregnated with ethanol, and remain pliable enough to make a good seal???

I'm asking this, because two years ago, my carbs started spitting gasoline from carb#2. Had to tap on it to free it up, to get home.. Two days later, it stared spewing from #4.. So I broke the whole thing down, and replaced them with new valves.. So far, no leaking of gasoline.

Note: I also cleaned and coated my fuel tank, cleaned out carbs, fuel pump and hoses,, to make sure no FM was sloshing around in my fuel system.

The OP said he picked up an 06 with 13K..
That's 9 years old. (don't know if the valve needles had been changed).

As you know, rubber degrades on it own, with or without use.

I was wondering, how long can we expect those valve needles to last?
 
That viton (I think that's the name) rubber is for being submerged in fuel, I think. I had to store my jet block stoppers in gas. They actually shrink and crack when they're out in the air.

At least this is how I understand it.
 
That viton (I think that's the name) rubber is for being submerged in fuel, I think. I had to store my jet block stoppers in gas. They actually shrink and crack when they're out in the air.

At least this is how I understand it.

+1, took the words....I came flying down the ramp of my trailer once. And shook the bike up a little hard. Gas started coming out of one ofthe carb vents. I whacked the carb body by the needle/seat and it was ok from then on. I go through my carbs about every 4 years.
 
Thanks for the help guys, that certainly gives me a few things to consider and a positive outlook knowing I've got the V-Max nation watching my back. I'll report my progress
 
I had a problem with leaky carbs a few years ago. Seems the gas lines were coming apart. Replacing all fuel lines and a good dose of Seafoam straightened things out. I did replace the diaphragms about 20 years ago, but never any internal rubber parts. Bike still runs great, but I'm sure the time is coming..
 
Update: I removed carbs, separated them and cleaned, and bench adjusted the floats. The float needles were still pliable and looked good (magnified) but probably a good Idea to replace them because of age: Now, back on the bike, #4 carb is doing what #3 was doing previously. I kept all parts separate so the needles didn't change places. I'll order needles, "Just Because" but this seems to be something else. What say you?
 
Update: I removed carbs, separated them and cleaned, and bench adjusted the floats. The float needles were still pliable and looked good (magnified) but probably a good Idea to replace them because of age: Now, back on the bike, #4 carb is doing what #3 was doing previously. I kept all parts separate so the needles didn't change places. I'll order needles, "Just Because" but this seems to be something else. What say you?
I can send you 4 float needles that won't leak if you need them. Are you in North Carolina?
 

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Hey' guys.. I was wondering about those brass seats.. New ones came with my valves.
How the hell do you get those things out??. I damn near broke off the brass lip trying to grab it.
I figured they had to be removable, since new ones came with the needle valves.
I had to stop before it messed up the seal surface and ruin the carb body.
 
Hey' guys.. I was wondering about those brass seats.. New ones came with my valves.
How the hell do you get those things out??. I damn near broke off the brass lip trying to grab it.
I figured they had to be removable, since new ones came with the needle valves.
I had to stop before it messed up the seal surface and ruin the carb body.

Those can be a little tricky, I made special plugs and jack them out with a "C" clamp but be careful, the aftermarket ones have shitty QC and run over or under size more often than not.
 
there is fuel route from the top of that brass seat, to the overflow spout.. My carbs looks like the housing is molded over those.

Did you have to drill, replace the brass, then plug the hole??? (Yellow Arrow)
Carb body.jpg
 
there is fuel route from the top of that brass seat, to the overflow spout.. My carbs looks like the housing is molded over those.

Did you have to drill, replace the brass, then plug the hole??? (Yellow Arrow)
View attachment 51661

There is an aluminum or brass plug with o-ring that gets pressed into that hole after the seat is installed....maybe the o-ring was leaking and someone tried sealing it with epoxy or something?? Seen that before. There are a couple ways to get the seat out....one requires drilling the top plug, one doesn't.
 

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