Carburator Rebuild Kit Recommendations

[DGRStunner]

Hello Folks!

Very recenlty I inherited a Vmax 97. Always loved this bike but it is very uncommon where I live (Costa Rica) so I was never able to get one for me. So I was very excited when my brother passed the bike to me.
Since my brother got the bike some years ago I helped him with very basic stuff and warned him about some of the issues I was able to catch, he is not the kind of guy to take care of it by himself, so naturally he took it to crappy mechanics. Long story short the bike never ran ok. I knew the tank was rusted, the previous owner did a lot of crap (K&N individual Intakes, unknown tunning, vboost removal...), I saw it once leaking fuel through the vents.... It was a mess, but back then was far from my care.

Anyway, about a month ago I received the bike, all I knew is that the engine has not been started for a couple of years.
What I've done so far:
- Starter Clutch replacement
- New Battery
- Replaced Fuel Tank
- Added OEM Air Box with K&N filter (OEM replacement)
- Installed VBoost
- Installed OEM main jets, needles, and slide springs (original parts came in a box with the bike).

I used the repair manual for most fixes and to determine the OEM jets and needles.

The bike runs pretty good, but there is still a long way for it to be in perfect condition, or at least how I want it. My objective is to restore it to its original condition as much as possible.

The thread is about the carbs, so going to it...
The bike runs very well, but the carbs are leaking fuel, no drips but moist... Fuel hoses are a mess, ordered the originals already, missing o-rings for the AF screws (all 4 of them), only god knows what else is missing...

Anyway, I've seen a lot of options for carb rebuild kits, but I am afraid to get a crappy one and make it worse.
So far the kit from Parts Unlimited has caught my attention, but wannted to ask for some experience regarding these kits.
Parts Unlimited part number 1003-1418.

I've seen other ebay stuff, but as mentioned, I am afrair of getting a crappy kit that could make the process miserable.

P.D.: I apologize if there is an existing thread for this topic. I've reviewed dozens and I tried searching for it with no sucess.

Thanks!

 

[Fire-medic]

OEM parts are going to be your best bet. Looking at the online description, I don't see the jet block gaskets shown or listed. Parts Unlimited Carburetor Rebuild Kit - 1003-1418 | eBay
Those often tear upon disassembly, I strongly suggest either you buy those separately through a Yamaha dealer, or on here, Sean Morley [email protected], dannymax, or CaptainKyle whom I believe is a Parts Unlimited dealer. In the upper left of the page, search 'members' and then click-on 'start a conversation,' include your email.

 

[Fire-medic]

K & L
Economy Carb Repair Kit - 18-2879

• Part #:
  173653
• Mfg Part #:
  18-2879
• OEM/Ref#:

MSRP: $33.95
Price:$30.26

K & L Economy Carb Repair Kit - 18-2879 Cruiser Motorcycle | Dennis Kirk

This is K & L which is an OEM supplier to Japanese manufacturers. It has the jet block gasket which usually tears upon disassembly of the carbs. I would not attempt disassembly until you have that set of four available to you. This kit is for one carburetor, so you need four kits. It also contains the starting enrichener gasket, which is not-included in the set you posted. The gaskets and O-rings are what you need. All the screws are nice to-have if you bugger one trying to disassemble them, but nothing you cannot replace at a well-stocked hardware store.

This kit also includes a brass float valve and float needle, requiring you to remove the aluminum plug which is staked in-place on your carb, to press-out the brass carb float seat.

Since you've already been in the carburetors, you know what type of shape the brass jets are in, and the needle (#8) in the main nozzle (#34) 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Carburetor | Ron Ayers Unless the brass has been buggered by a prior owner/mechanic, you can re-use the brass and the jets. On the fiche, #22 is the pilot screw set, and those need to be in good shape, with washers and O-rings intact, for idle/low-speed and carb balancing.

Getting everything you need is sometimes expensive. Kits as you see here, have one but not the other, so you probably have to buy parts not included in a kit. The 'no-name' kits are often sources of complaints from dissatisfied customers. While the gaudy plethora of shiny pieces is visually-appealing, dissatisfaction with performance remains long-after the attraction of low price (for all-those pieces) is forgotten.



Here's the kit you referenced: Parts Unlimited Carburetor Rebuild Kit - 1003-1418 | eBay Without the two gaskets, you would need to buy them separately. Here is the listing from the P.U. catalog, not-off ebay. Search | Parts Unlimited® | We support the sport ® (parts-unlimited.com) It does contain #22 the pilot screw set.

 

[DGRStunner]

OEM parts are going to be your best bet. Looking at the online description, I don't see the jet block gaskets shown or listed. Parts Unlimited Carburetor Rebuild Kit - 1003-1418 | eBay
Those often tear upon disassembly, I strongly suggest either you buy those separately through a Yamaha dealer, or on here, Sean Morley [email protected], dannymax, or CaptainKyle whom I believe is a Parts Unlimited dealer. In the upper left of the page, search 'members' and then click-on 'start a conversation,' include your email.

Nice!
Thanks for pointing out missing and important parts

 

[DGRStunner]

K & L
Economy Carb Repair Kit - 18-2879

• Part #:
  173653
• Mfg Part #:
  18-2879
• OEM/Ref#:

MSRP: $33.95
Price:$30.26

K & L Economy Carb Repair Kit - 18-2879 Cruiser Motorcycle | Dennis Kirk

This is K & L which is an OEM supplier to Japanese manufacturers. It has the jet block gasket which usually tears upon disassembly of the carbs. I would not attempt disassembly until you have that set of four available to you. This kit is for one carburetor, so you need four kits. It also contains the starting enrichener gasket, which is not-included in the set you posted. The gaskets and O-rings are what you need. All the screws are nice to-have if you bugger one trying to disassemble them, but nothing you cannot replace at a well-stocked hardware store.

This kit also includes a brass float valve and float needle, requiring you to remove the aluminum plug which is staked in-place on your carb, to press-out the brass carb float seat.

Since you've already been in the carburetors, you know what type of shape the brass jets are in, and the needle (#8) in the main nozzle (#34) 2006 Yamaha V-MAX 1200 (VMX12V) Carburetor | Ron Ayers Unless the brass has been buggered by a prior owner/mechanic, you can re-use the brass and the jets. On the fiche, #22 is the pilot screw set, and those need to be in good shape, with washers and O-rings intact, for idle/low-speed and carb balancing.

Getting everything you need is sometimes expensive. Kits as you see here, have one but not the other, so you probably have to buy parts not included in a kit. The 'no-name' kits are often sources of complaints from dissatisfied customers. While the gaudy plethora of shiny pieces is visually-appealing, dissatisfaction with performance remains long-after the attraction of low price (for all-those pieces) is forgotten.

View attachment 77360

Here's the kit you referenced: Parts Unlimited Carburetor Rebuild Kit - 1003-1418 | eBay Without the two gaskets, you would need to buy them separately. Here is the listing from the P.U. catalog, not-off ebay. Search | Parts Unlimited® | We support the sport ® (parts-unlimited.com) It does contain #22 the pilot screw set.

Very thorough and detailed information

Thank you very much!

Indeed, as mentioned in the thread openinig, I left the bike running good enough, iddles steadily, pulls nice, vboost is very noticeble when kicks in.... But I am pretty sure still there is an improvement gap... Most importantly I wished I could test a Vmax that runs perfectly for making it my base line.
Still, the bike shows signs that the rebuild is necessary and now I am pointed to the right source of parts required.
I'll be tearing it down completely once I have everything I need

Appreciated!

 

[02GF74]

You should be able to determine from the frame number the market the bike was built for and from that the appropriate jet sizes.

For standard tune, there are around 3 variations, select the one closest to yours.

Quite often the kits contain a selection of main jets and others.

Many owners attempt DIY tuning by fitting richer jets etc that usually results worse running.

Oh, part of the recommissioning, replace oil and filter, final drive oil, and coolant, check the thermostat operates correctly.

 

[DGRStunner]

You should be able to determine from the frame number the market the bike was built for and from that the appropriate jet sizes.

For standard tune, there are around 3 variations, select the one closest to yours.

Quite often the kits contain a selection of main jets and others.

Many owners attempt DIY tuning by fitting richer jets etc that usually results worse running.

Oh, part of the recommissioning, replace oil and filter, final drive oil, and coolant, check the thermostat operates correctly.

Yes, as far as I understand the bike is a Californian model, hence the main jet is 152.5 (which I have installed already) and the needle looks like it hasn't been modified... Initially had and afermarket neddle installed. That at least was the good thing about the last owner, he kept the OEM parts, and fortunately I was able to identify them in the service manual.

I did the fluid changes, including brakes and clutch (none of the master cylinders were working, some bleeding brought them back to life but I will be rebuilding them next), but the one I had my doubts is the final gear oil. The old one was not as bad as I would think, it was all dark (which for gear oil is a sign that has never been changed) but at least it was not muddy.... Looking at the service manual it says that SAE 80 must be used, but not sure if it is available at all... the closest I was able to find at the moment was Repsol 80W90:



Hope it was the right call. I was planning to to change it again in about 100 miles, in order to make sure all components have been washed with fresh oil.

Thanks for your input

 

[DGRStunner]

First start after two years...

 

[02GF74]

Great, it runs!!!

Below is what I bought. I looked into getting semi synthetic and fully synthetic, and whether to get multi grade but after a lot of reading, it appeared plain old mineral oil was best, I believe as specified in the manual.