Carrozzeria rotor bolt clearance issue

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Rand-5107

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Last night I finally mounted my Carr.wheel up front. It wouldn't spin due to the fact the rotor bolt on the right side was contacting the fork tube. It wasn't by too much as I could force it by. On the left side (speedo drive side) there was .070 inch clearance. The bolts are titanium low profile socket heads that are duplicates of the stock carrozzeria supplied bolts. All new bearings, Carr.spacer, new speedo drive. The whole rim is sitting to far to the right. This rim fit on a late model with no apparent problems. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 
Sorry about the phone issue earlier. The late model forks have even less clearance then the early ones like yours. The larger rotors though aren't counterbored normally (unless you got vmax ones) for the bolt heads. This applies to the R1/R6 type rotors and galfer floating rotors. I think the non floating galfers have counterbored head areas.

BUT, I think we should maybe see what your spacer length is compared to someone elses. I will try and measure one if I can remember when I head to the shop in just a few min.

Sean
 
These have that weird stepped spacer that presses inside a sealed bearing from the rear end on the right side, then it presses up against the stock size bearing on the left. I can't remember if I included a flange spacer on the left. I don't think it came with one in it.
 
Calipers are not on. I have Jedi's caliper adapters to run stock early style calipers with late model full floating rotors. It came with the Chinese wave rotors from mister pickles. The rim on the right is closer to the fork tube than it is on the left side.
 
Reason I ask is I had THE EXACT SAME ISSUE with mine. Bolts didn't hit but the rotor hit the caliper. Took several weeks and me shipping my stock wheel to them, to get it resolved.


Sent from my iPad using special algorithms and data nodes.
 
I bought these used from mister pickles. Then I stripped out the bearings and had Sean chrome them. I replaced all components with new, with the exception of the spacers. Carrozzeria doesn't sell replacement spacers. They told me to have a machine shop make them. So somehow when I reassembled them, I seem to have shifted every thing inside to the left at least .035" moving the rim to the right.
 
I never had them on. They came from Scot and I just had to get rid of that blue anodizing. In hindsight I should have fit them first. Then I would have known if there were any problems ahead of time. His was a late model, but the distance between inside of fork axle mounts should be the same.
 
His did fit and were run for some time. So, if they didn't at that time we would have known. Something changed in the assembly is what I suspect though can't verify that.
 
Gonna ask a two part stupid question, but how much thickness does the chrome add and is it possible that the process would have caused enough of a change to move the wheel over to the right far enough to hit?
 
I'm resigned to the fact it must come apart. First will try to compare my stock wheel and Carr. For width of bearing stack including spacers and clearance to the fork tubes. Today I woke up with a kidney stone, so I may put it off to tomorrow. Usually I don't drink from April 1st till thanksgiving for the riding season. Today though I may make an exception for a full on beer flush. Probably another, well it seemed like a good idea at the time.
 
The chrome adds .003-.004" which is very minimal compared to how much his sounds like is off.

Sean
 
Carr sent me two wheels and they both fit incorrectly, so then I had to send them my stock wheel and the two rims back for them to figure out what was wrong.

The nice thing is THEY paid for everything... I was out of pocket ZILCH... Sure, It was a PITA, but their customer support was second to none IMO.

Good luck!

Chris
 
I would have thought we would have already sorted that out when these were first installed. There are pics of these when they were blue on this forum. Plus, these were sold well after your early set was made.
 
I would have thought we would have already sorted that out when these were first installed. There are pics of these when they were blue on this forum. Plus, these were sold well after your early set was made.

Agreed! Just an awful familiar issue... I know others had them on their bike before me so it threw me for a HUGE loop. I wonder if they had the same issues and didn't notice it. I actually remember looking at a picture of someones bike with them and the wheel was off to the right a ton.

Mine's dead nuts in the center. I think Carr learned from me. I'm sure it's an assembly issue.

Carr had me pull the bearings in to make sure they were seated completely. Try using a threaded rod and some washers and snug the bearings up. See if that's the issue.

I'm not blaming the chrome at all here...

Chris
 
Not blaming anyone for anything. I just want to fix my problem. Proper planning prevents piss poor performance. No matter how much I plan, everything pretty much turns to _hit.
 
Another dumb question but.....

I know the chrome will not account for enough of the thickness that you are off, but is it possible that the chrome is preventing the bearings from seating completely on one side? I was thinking of an interference fit around the outside race of the bearing sort of wedgeing it in. :confused2:
 
I will take a look today. Yesterday I had a kidney stone and wasn't doing anything. Today I feel pretty good except for mild hangover from beer flush last night. It always seems to work. I was thinking the bearing under the speedo drive might not be in far enough and the other side in to deep.
 
Carr wheels from M.P., " All they need is 2 front wheel dust seals and 1 rear wheel dust seal and they are plug and play " . I almost bought 'em 'cause I really liked the blue , but didn't since he was on the left coast & shipping wasn't cheap to GA.
 

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