Charging system / Battery ?

[jagco1]

I went out for long ride a few days ago I had stop 2 times to get gas no problems. The 3rd stop I got gas about 2 gallons when I try to start the bike man it turn over about 20 to 25 times before it started back up. I almost thought it was not going to start. When I got back home I let the bike sit for about 1 hour and it start right up. I check the battery and found the battery that was in there was gone and this battery was install:bang head:. A Walmart everstart 14L-A2 this a 14ah type battery. Witch I no is not the right battery for Vmax. Going to replace this 1. What batteries do you guy's recommend and why. I was looking at Panasonic UB12180 18ah 283cca 11.9 pounds, UB1220 22ah 420cca 13.1 pounds, Odyssey pc680 680cca 14.9 pounds, Motobatt 20ah.

Is my charging system working right here are the specs.

Volts at the battery 12.7 volts, lights turn on 12.2 volts, motor running at idle 1200 rpm 13.5, motor rpm at 3000 12.9 volts, Motor turn over 9.9 volts to 11 volts
Bike turn off volts after running the motor 13.0 volts.

 

[maleko89]

I only use Odyssey PC680. My last one lasted 8 years.

 

[DMAN999]

Read through this:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108
Your Voltages definitely seem a bit low.

PS
I have a UB12180 and I couldn't be happier, I've had it for about 6 years now and it still cranks my bike like a champ.

 

[Fire-medic]

A lot of the guys use the Odyssey, more-expensive but they seem to run a long time. I installed a "Vanity Battery," a Ballistic Lithium-ion, which worked well for a year before snapping the brass cast positive terminal. I am waiting on the 'goodwill warranty' as they usually do not cover terminals, but the shop owner where I have bought two Ballistic batteries was able to get the adjustment done for me. They are supposed to be mailing me a replacement, but it han't arrived yet. In the meantime, I robbed my FZR1000's Ballistic for the VMax, 'all-in-the-family,' right?:biglaugh:

My view:
'bang for the buck': Panasonic
easily-available, good warranty service: Sears Die Hard
longevity & often used by people here: Odyssey
light weight, big power, small size, can be positioned upside-down (I think) if you wanted-to; 'snob-appeal': Ballistic or Shorai lithium ion "Vanity Battery":rofl_200:

 

[jagco1]

This the battery that's in the bike now. it some how got switch out must has happen last year when the bike was being inspected at the motorcycle dealer ship for tags. The battery that was in there was a yellowish color,

 

[jagco1]

A lot of the guys use the Odyssey, more-expensive but they seem to run a long time. I installed a "Vanity Battery," a Ballistic Lithium-ion, which worked well for a year before snapping the brass cast positive terminal. I am waiting on the 'goodwill warranty' as they usually do not cover terminals, but the shop owner where I have bought two Ballistic batteries was able to get the adjustment done for me. They are supposed to be mailing me a replacement, but it han't arrived yet. In the meantime, I robbed my FZR1000's Ballistic for the VMax, 'all-in-the-family,' right?:biglaugh:

My view:
'bang for the buck': Panasonic
easily-available, good warranty service: Sears Die Hard
longevity & often used by people here: Odyssey
light weight, big power, small size, can be positioned upside-down (I think) if you wanted-to; 'snob-appeal': Ballistic or Shorai lithium ion "Vanity Battery":rofl_200:

I use to race the 85/86 FZ750's and the FZR1000 87/88 at Summit Point Race Way in VA.

 

[jagco1]

Read through this:
http://www.vmaxforum.net/showthread.php?t=19108
Your Voltages definitely seem a bit low.

PS
I have a UB122180 and I couldn't be happier, I've had it for about 6 years now and it still cranks my bike like a champ.

Thanks for the link. I'm checking it out.

 

[Traumahawk]

I have a cross-over version of the Panasonic available from batteries plus...so far been a great battery.

 

[Fire-medic]

I use to race the 85/86 FZ750's and the FZR1000 87/88 at Summit Point Race Way in VA.

I remember riding the FZR1000 for the first time, I was used to my KZ1000J which was a well-equipped bike, and the FZR was just so-much better, I am sure it's the same way going from a Gen I to a Gen II VMax.

My FZR1000 is a runner, it's got some work to be done, and I'd like to disassemble it and re-do the finishes, but I am planning to do that to my VMax, once my wife gets her baths re-done. Trade-offs...

 

[ninjaneer]

I squeezed in a motobatt mb16au. monsterous number of cranking amps. but note, i used "squeeze" because the 1mm of extra width will require me to have to cut it out whenever it comes time to replace it.

It may be the notorious "hot start" problem. Do you recall if the fan was on during when you were trying to start it up? If it was, next time do ME a favor, pop out the FAN fuse and try to start the bike. I'm trying to gather data to dispute or support my "More Wakeup Juice" mod.

 

[m-cman]

This the battery that's in the bike now. it some how got switch out must has happen last year when the bike was being inspected at the motorcycle dealer ship for tags. The battery that was in there was a yellowish color,

Did the dealer charge you for a new battery or swap it out on his own? That is very suspicious. That battery you have now is the cheapest available. Do you know what battery was in it? The Odyssey has a red top. If you replace, get a maintenance free so you don't have to remove to fill the cells when they get low. Giant PITA. Everyone I know with a Gen1 Max (6 people) have the Odyssey. Mine was in my bike when I bought it in 2007 and is still great. Have no idea when it was installed by the PO.

 

[DMAN999]

I squeezed in a motobatt mb16au. monsterous number of cranking amps. but note, i used "squeeze" because the 1mm of extra width will require me to have to cut it out whenever it comes time to replace it.

It may be the notorious "hot start" problem. Do you recall if the fan was on during when you were trying to start it up? If it was, next time do ME a favor, pop out the FAN fuse and try to start the bike. I'm trying to gather data to dispute or support my "More Wakeup Juice" mod.

According to this:
http://www.impactbattery.com/motobatt-mb16au-sealed-yuasa-yb16al-a2-upgrade.html
The MotoBatt MB16AU ($103) only has 230 CCA, that's better than the Stock YUASA which has 200 CCA, but definitely not a Monster Amount of CCA IMO.

The Odyssey PC680 ($145) has quite a bit more Cranking Amps
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680.htm
680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
Cold Cranking Amps - 220 (this is there actual rated CCA but they claim this number is irrelevant)

And the UB12180 ($42) has 283 CCA:
http://www.apexbattery.com/universal-ub12180-12-volts-18-amp-hours-sla-battery-d5745.html

All 3 of these are Sealed Lead Acid AGM Batteries and any of them would work well on a VMax.

 

[jagco1]

Did the dealer charge you for a new battery or swap it out on his own? That is very suspicious. That battery you have now is the cheapest available. Do you know what battery was in it? The Odyssey has a red top. If you replace, get a maintenance free so you don't have to remove to fill the cells when they get low. Giant PITA. Everyone I know with a Gen1 Max (6 people) have the Odyssey. Mine was in my bike when I bought it in 2007 and is still great. Have no idea when it was installed by the PO.

Only thing I remember the battery being a yellowish color and wider than the 1 in there now. I do no I had problems with there service department when the bike was going through inspection. I needed the rear light change back to stock because it did not have the red light reflector, My front brakes they was trying to make me change back to the old vmax brakes. I have the GSXR750 brakes on the bike. Man I just don't no what happen I think it happen there..... My bike they had it for 1 day over night.

 

[jagco1]

According to this:
http://www.impactbattery.com/motobatt-mb16au-sealed-yuasa-yb16al-a2-upgrade.html
The MotoBatt MB16AU ($103) only has 230 CCA, that's better than the Stock YUASA which has 200 CCA, but definitely not a Monster Amount of CCA IMO.

The Odyssey PC680 ($145) has quite a bit more Cranking Amps
http://www.odysseybatteries.com/battery/pc680.htm
680 cranking amps for 5 seconds
595 cranking amps for 10 seconds
525 cranking amps for 20 seconds
Cold Cranking Amps - 220 (this is there actual rated CCA but they claim this number is irrelevant)

And the UB12180 ($42) has 283 CCA:
http://www.apexbattery.com/universal-ub12180-12-volts-18-amp-hours-sla-battery-d5745.html

All 3 of these are Sealed Lead Acid AGM Batteries and any of them would work well on a VMax.

I talk to APEX Battery today, The sale manager name Mercedes. Told me the UB12180 should be find for the Vmax 1200cc and she said the UB1220 22ah has CCA 420 she did not thank I need this much for the Vmax.

I did look in to more on the Odyssey in other forums there was few was not sure of the cranking amps and some thought it cost to much. And some love it.

But it did look like more people been using the Panasonic UB battery's with good reviews.

 

[jagco1]

Thanks Thanks Guy's for your input. I order the UB12180 18ah 283 cca.

Should be here buy the end of the week.

 

[timscues]

it may not be the battery if it spun over 20-25 times, before starting

 

[MtnMax/Magniac]

it may not be the battery if it spun over 20-25 times, before starting

It may be a combination of problems, the notorious hot-start problem as well as a fault in the charging system. I noticed in an earlier post he said only 12.9 volts at 3,000 rpm. That's pretty low, should be more like 14+ volts at 3,000.

 

[jagco1]

it may not be the battery if it spun over 20-25 times, before starting

The motor turns over fast, I start the bike up just now it work find.

But I have been keeping the battery on the 1.5 amp trickle charger to.

When I went out riding few days ago on the 4 stop if I remember right. It took 20 to 25 motor turn overs to start up.

But the battery that's in there had some very bad write ups I thought it would be best to pull it.

I also did this mod to. Run off + side of the battery with a 12 gauge to the rectifier. I have not check the voltage yet.


These are the reading now.
At the battery 12.88 volts
Lights on 12.34 volts
Motor turn over 10.56 volts
If the bike sits 5min's volts go's up to 12.80

Below do these new number look good guy's

Motor check with the 12 gauge red wire running off the battery to the red rectifier wire.
I ran another ground wire to the frame below the fake gas tanks and another ground wire off the battery
Motor running temp half way fan on
At idle 1000 rpms 13.85 to 14.15
At 1500 rpms 14.05 to 14.15
At 2000 to 2500 rpms 14.08 to 14.20 volts
At 3000 rpm 13.98 to 14.02 volts
If I rev the engine up to 4000 rpms and let drop when gets around 2000 it will hit 14.25 sometimes.

This is what I had before.
Volts at the battery 12.7 volts, lights turn on 12.2 volts, motor running at idle 1200 rpm 13.5, motor rpm at 3000 12.9 volts, Motor turn over 9.9 volts to 11 volts
Bike turn off volts after running the motor 13.0 volts.

Also how can I tell if my fuel pump is weak...

 

[Traumahawk]

The motor turns over fast, I start the bike up just now it work find.

But I have been keeping the battery on the 1.5 amp trickle charger to.

When I went out riding few days ago on the 4 stop if I remember right. It took 20 to 25 motor turn overs to start up.

But the battery that's in there had some very bad write ups I thought it would be best to pull it.

I also did this mod to. Run off + side of the battery with a 12 gauge to the rectifier. I have not check the voltage yet.


These are the reading now.
At the battery 12.88 volts
Lights on 12.34 volts
Motor turn over 10.56 volts
If the bike sits 5min's volts go's up to 12.80

Also how can I tell if my fuel pump is weak...

Are these numbers with the bike running or just sitting there?

 

[jagco1]

Are these numbers with the bike running or just sitting there?

I just re-posted the numbers with the bike running..
But here you go, do these look good.

"O" this to

volts at the battery 13.01
lights on 12.34
motor turn over 10:56 lowest reading.

Motor check with the 12 gauge red wire running off the battery to the red rectifier wire.
I ran another ground wire to the rectifier bolt - and mounted it below the fake gas tank, and another ground wire off the battery to the frame.
Motor running temp half way fan on
At idle 1000 rpms 13.85 to 14.15
At 1500 rpms 14.05 to 14.15
At 2000 to 2500 rpms 14.08 to 14.20 volts
At 3000 rpm 13.98 to 14.02 volts
If I rev the engine up to 4000 rpms and let drop when gets around 2000 it will hit 14.25 sometimes.

This is what I had before.
Volts at the battery 12.7 volts, lights turn on 12.2 volts, motor running at idle 1200 rpm 13.5, motor rpm at 3000 12.9 volts, Motor turn over 9.9 volts to 11 volts
Bike turn off volts after running the motor 13.0 volts.