Cheap regulators on ebay worth it?

[Juansvmax]

As ussual funds are short but been having charging issue with my Vmax. I'm redoing all the power and ground wires today with 4 gauge. I don't know if the regulator is bad but for $17 I figured it maybe worth changing. But I see the prices range from $17 to over $100. Will I be wasting money or are they as good as stock? If anyone has tryed these out please throw me some feedback. Thanks

 

[jfeagins]

I can't see a $17 regulator being a 'win' situation for our Vmaxes. Talk to Sean Morley for one that will be plug n play correct fit for your bike.

 

[Traumahawk]

i can't see a $17 regulator being a 'win' situation for our vmaxes. Talk to sean morley for one that will be plug n play correct fit for your bike.

+1

 

[DMAN999]

^ Agreed.
I would NOT put a $17 R/R on my Max !
Look at the Electrosport Industries Rectifier/Regulator or Rick's Electric R/R's for decent priced alternatives to stock.

 

[sdt354]

I'd get a used OEM later model R/R. The ones with cooling fins o n them. They work well.

 

[Juansvmax]

Just got done replacing battery cables with soldered 4 gauge and cleaning all connections and wire connections. Seems to have cured issue! I won't know for sure till I take her out later. I hope so, that way I can save for a quality R/R and have it before mine goes.

 

[marsmax85]

Jaunsvmax you can always install a digital volt meter just to keep an eye on your voltage .

 

[jagco1]

What are the numbers on the r/r if FH and then number you may be ok with it.

Not SH....

 

[Redbone]

FH012 was used on R1's 2004 to 2007 or 8, but FH011/ FH010/ FH009 would all work fine. They also have been used on a number of Yamaha powersports vehicles from the mid 90's, my FH012 came from a '07 Rhino for example.
Look up the part number from an '07 Rhino and you get a new R/R for $84.00
http://www.ronayers.com/Basket.aspx or just throw Yamaha's part number on a general web search and you get a tested used one for $46 like I did.

Edit: Here is one I found: http://www.ebay.com/itm/FH020AA-Voltage-Regulator-Rectifier-Yamaha-1D7-81960-00-00/121525546489?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D28808%26meid%3D7d6b86c8f3b9408eaf6a4c6f0a71dc5d%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D6%26sd%3D360642763427&rt=nc

Here is another source: http://www.roadstercycle.com/
One of his video's: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tvhaOHUjy3g
Check out the bike over his right shoulder in the video, if you recognize it is the Vmax powered trike that has his fuel injection setup on it.

 

[Bill Seward]

"FH" is the designation for a MOSFET unit. This is what you want.
"SH" designates a Shunt style unit. While they work OK, they will run a bit hotter (or a LOT hotter!) and normally not work as well as a MOSFET.

The differences between the way these 2 types operate is best left to the electrical geeks here. If you need to replace, get a MOSFET.. No harm in getting one that is not model specific. Lots of us use R/R units from other bikes, and mount them under the seat. A MOSFET unit barely gets warm, so it can be mounted out of the cooling airstream. They will also have an extra wire, compared to the early OEM units. The ground on the early ones runs through the frame to battery. Newer ones have a ground wire. Run the red and black wires from the new unit directly to battery, soldering any wire splices you have to make. The 3 wires to the stator can be soldered also - remove the 3-prong plug if you feel confident in soldering these wires. This plug is a famous trouble spot. Corrosion here causes heat, and the plugs have been known to melt.. The 3 wires are carrying 3-phase AC, so there is no incorrect way to hook them to the R/R.. If you don't want to solder them, get some POSI LOCK connectors, and slip a bit of heatshrink over them to keep them from getting wet.