Chinese cheap cnc(?) brkae/clutch levers

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02GF74

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The clutch lever is wobbly which I suspect is due to wear. If I cannot fix it, then I am looking at replacement levers - most likely bought as a pair to they match - pattern replacements do not have as good finish as the original ... so I am considering these cheap Chinese, supposedly CNC levers.

Wondering if anybody is using this type and good/bad experiences.

cnclever.jpg
 
Thanks for getting back, either you are insomniac or based in UK /Europe.

Need to remove the clutch lever to see what is worn, and yes a steel Bush will last longer than a hole in the alloy lever.

I still fancy trying the aftermarket levers.
 
ok, hole is slightly oval at 8.5mm - should be 8.0 mm so is well worn. It is at times like that I wish I had a lathe:( but no problem, one off these, from eBay, MB0810DU, PAP0810P10 Split Bearing Bush PTFE Lined 8x10x10mm, item 273617588446 for £ 1.43 should do the trick, lever needs to be drilled out to 10mm.

Q. with split bearings like the one above, are they oversize and compress into a 10 mm hole meaning that the hole can be ever so slightly larger? - not sure how accurate the holes made by my 10 mm drill bit are.

Needle roller bearing 8x12x10 are available which would be even better but that would not leave a lot of metal on the lever.

If it goes horribly, there's always them chinese levers - anyone used them?;)
 
I have some cheap chines levers on my bike, they are ok but the clutch lever was further out on its closest setting than the standard lever, I had to cut away some inner material to allow it to be closer to the bars (which is why I wanted them)
 
I have what looks loke the ones you posted but the titanium color. Like Julian, I bought them hoping I could adjust them closer to the bar but they are actually further than stock. I am debating on selling them or trying to modify them for a closer reach.
 
You can buy complete master cylinders/levers for not a lot of $ from Aibaba, Amazon, or ebay. You need 5/8" bore.
 
Not sure if id be buying anything knowingly from China anymore. Why reward that shithole. Been looking at some rear sets ones from china 120$, ones sold here but made in china 750$ likely from the same place. Between stingy ppl here trying to save a buck and chinas ruthless manipulation of ever market is why we are where we are now. Spend a few extra bucks and try to buy something from somewhere else, the eu has plenty of in-house manufacturing for mororcycle related stuff.
 
I agree, but I tried researching a place to buy a regulator that was not chinese, I couldn't afford a genuine one but managed to find one that was sold in the UK but from an AMERICAN company, when it got here I found it to have 'made in china' printed on it !
 
Q. with split bearings like the one above, are they oversize and compress into a 10 mm hole meaning that the hole can be ever so slightly larger? - not sure how accurate the holes made by my 10 mm drill bit are?

That would depend on how you define accurate.

Provided you use a sharp drill, clamp the workpiece and use a pillar drill you should have sufficient accuracy for your purpose.
You want to try and maintain the original centre line of the hole.
I would be inclined to start with an 8.5 mm drill and try and remove the ovality. Once you have the hole round then go to 10 mm.
I would assume that they will be 10 mm o.d. If they were oversize then after fitting you may end up with a smaller i.d.
Aim for a light interference fit to retain the original dimensions; if it is slightly loose after fitting you could use Loctite bearing fit.
 
"Pillar drill," another English colloquialism, I'm not familiar with. But I figured it out, very-descriptive.
 

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