Johnnymax
Member
Hey everyone, I bought an 01 1200 and wanted to know where to buy the chrome covers above the carbs, this bike is super clean but the chrome covers are sad. Where do I get them?
Chrome covers over the carbs..
- Thread starter Johnnymax
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Welcome, a good-looking bike there, I like the exhaust. It has an aftermarket headlight, and aftermarket turn signals? Thanks for kicking-in for the operation of the website. I am not anyone associated with its operation.
I think you mean the plastic covers in-front of the carbs' VBoost manifold? The thing looking like a duck-footed letter, H? For decent used ones, try CaptainKyle ([email protected]) or Sean Morley [email protected]
As a new owner, here's a reading assignment. Your homework is to read this entire thread, and to scrutinize what you have, and report-back, to inform us of what you believe you have there, and what if-anything you think is an action you may choose to-take.
(4) Cobra Exhaust Tuning Recommendation. | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
You will want to save this link in your 'favorites' folder: vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf and this one, too: PartNumbers.pdf (vmoa.net) If you keep the bike, you will be using these.
This one is another one to read all the way through, and to bookmark: (4) New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read! | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) If you do that, you're going to be way-ahead of the curve for operation, maintenance and modification of your VMax.
One thing about the Service manual, before you start to look at it, take a look at how it's organized, there are different 'supplements' for different years of the VMax production. The supplements are all at the front. Generally-speaking, the motorcycle was designed in the early 1980's, first produced as a 1985 model year and released in '84, and production ran until model-year 2007. There were a few changes (more on that later) but essentially it was the same bike for a production run which exceeded the time-duration during-which Henry Ford built the Model T. It outlasted all the challengers: Suzuki Madura, Kawasaki Eliminator 900 and 1000, and the Honda Magna 700/750 and 1100.
The big changes were 1985-'89 used an analog ignition module using dual pick-up ignition pieces, the magnetic sensors triggering the spark plugs' firing. 1990-2007 used a digital ignition module, using a single pick-up on the left side of the engine under the left-front engine cover (same location for the early model) You have the newer ignition box and the single magnetic pick-up. It's easy to tell which is which, the early one has a 5-wire plug, the later one has a 2-wire plug.
In 1993 the brakes and the front suspension were changed to larger-diameter downtubes and sliders, of course the triple trees changed too. An easy swap for a stouter front-end is to swap the newer triple trees and suspension and the brakes (calipers/rotors) onto an early-model bike. no-need to change the front brake master cylinder. You have the better front end & brakes, no-need to do anything. I would suggest you check your brake fluids F & R, and the hydraulic clutch master cylinder, and if the fluid isn't clear, flush the entire system with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. I'm gonna put-in a plug here for my preferred method of thoroughly-bleeding the brakes and especially the clutch, the reverse-flush where you use the bleeder nipples on the brake calipers and the clutch slave cylinder (left-side, above the engine crankcase, middle of the bike, under a square rubber boot) to push brake fluid through the lines, and into the master cylinders. This forces any air in the lines, and the old brake fluid, out of the lines, and into the master cylinders. You may need to empty the master cylinders of used fluid, do-not allow it to overflow as it will ruin your paint! If you just empty the reservoirs first before beginning the bleeding, you save having to do it later.
This thread has good info on the process, and more:
(4) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
It also describes how-to make your own reverse-bleeder tool, cheaply, by visiting the supermarket and an auto parts store.
There are other ways to do this, the traditional way, where someone squeezes and holds-down the lever/pedal, while you crack-open the caliper/slave cylinder bleeder, and the hand lever goes to the bar (tell your helper, "don't let go yet!") or the foot pedal hits the stop; SpeedBleeders, and MityVacs.
If your brake pads are thin, I suggest HH pads, usually the type of friction lining is inked onto the caliper pad back. Be sure to replace pads as pairs and do both calipers at the front at the same time. If you find there is one side in a caliper which is much-more worn than the other side, you may have a caliper disassembly and thorough cleaning ahead of you. The service manual says, "do-not split-apart the calipers!" Many do it for cleaning, but you don't need it done to remove/replace the pistons if they're corroded, but it sure makes an easier job of cleaning gunk and corrosion out of the caliper bodies.
It's possible the fork oil is original to the bike. Changing the oil will show you if you have aftermarket parts in there, as you will be removing the fork tubes from the triple trees. Leave the top plug in-place to bust-loose the hex allen screw accessed through the bottom of the slider, an air tool and the proper socket make this easy. Common changes are different fork springs, and spacers, cartridge emulators or RICOR oil damping mechanisms, and adjustable fork caps. BTW, what is the pressure in your forks? Typical is ~5-14 psi, though aftermarket springs may-not require it.
That's a good start for you.
I think you mean the plastic covers in-front of the carbs' VBoost manifold? The thing looking like a duck-footed letter, H? For decent used ones, try CaptainKyle ([email protected]) or Sean Morley [email protected]
As a new owner, here's a reading assignment. Your homework is to read this entire thread, and to scrutinize what you have, and report-back, to inform us of what you believe you have there, and what if-anything you think is an action you may choose to-take.
(4) Cobra Exhaust Tuning Recommendation. | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
You will want to save this link in your 'favorites' folder: vmoa.net/VMX12-Service-Manual01.pdf and this one, too: PartNumbers.pdf (vmoa.net) If you keep the bike, you will be using these.
This one is another one to read all the way through, and to bookmark: (4) New Vmax Owner FAQs....new members please read! | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net) If you do that, you're going to be way-ahead of the curve for operation, maintenance and modification of your VMax.
One thing about the Service manual, before you start to look at it, take a look at how it's organized, there are different 'supplements' for different years of the VMax production. The supplements are all at the front. Generally-speaking, the motorcycle was designed in the early 1980's, first produced as a 1985 model year and released in '84, and production ran until model-year 2007. There were a few changes (more on that later) but essentially it was the same bike for a production run which exceeded the time-duration during-which Henry Ford built the Model T. It outlasted all the challengers: Suzuki Madura, Kawasaki Eliminator 900 and 1000, and the Honda Magna 700/750 and 1100.
The big changes were 1985-'89 used an analog ignition module using dual pick-up ignition pieces, the magnetic sensors triggering the spark plugs' firing. 1990-2007 used a digital ignition module, using a single pick-up on the left side of the engine under the left-front engine cover (same location for the early model) You have the newer ignition box and the single magnetic pick-up. It's easy to tell which is which, the early one has a 5-wire plug, the later one has a 2-wire plug.
In 1993 the brakes and the front suspension were changed to larger-diameter downtubes and sliders, of course the triple trees changed too. An easy swap for a stouter front-end is to swap the newer triple trees and suspension and the brakes (calipers/rotors) onto an early-model bike. no-need to change the front brake master cylinder. You have the better front end & brakes, no-need to do anything. I would suggest you check your brake fluids F & R, and the hydraulic clutch master cylinder, and if the fluid isn't clear, flush the entire system with fresh DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid. I'm gonna put-in a plug here for my preferred method of thoroughly-bleeding the brakes and especially the clutch, the reverse-flush where you use the bleeder nipples on the brake calipers and the clutch slave cylinder (left-side, above the engine crankcase, middle of the bike, under a square rubber boot) to push brake fluid through the lines, and into the master cylinders. This forces any air in the lines, and the old brake fluid, out of the lines, and into the master cylinders. You may need to empty the master cylinders of used fluid, do-not allow it to overflow as it will ruin your paint! If you just empty the reservoirs first before beginning the bleeding, you save having to do it later.
This thread has good info on the process, and more:
(4) Clutch slave cylinder replacement | Yamaha Star V-Max VMAX Motorcycle Discussion Forum (vmaxforum.net)
It also describes how-to make your own reverse-bleeder tool, cheaply, by visiting the supermarket and an auto parts store.
There are other ways to do this, the traditional way, where someone squeezes and holds-down the lever/pedal, while you crack-open the caliper/slave cylinder bleeder, and the hand lever goes to the bar (tell your helper, "don't let go yet!") or the foot pedal hits the stop; SpeedBleeders, and MityVacs.
If your brake pads are thin, I suggest HH pads, usually the type of friction lining is inked onto the caliper pad back. Be sure to replace pads as pairs and do both calipers at the front at the same time. If you find there is one side in a caliper which is much-more worn than the other side, you may have a caliper disassembly and thorough cleaning ahead of you. The service manual says, "do-not split-apart the calipers!" Many do it for cleaning, but you don't need it done to remove/replace the pistons if they're corroded, but it sure makes an easier job of cleaning gunk and corrosion out of the caliper bodies.
It's possible the fork oil is original to the bike. Changing the oil will show you if you have aftermarket parts in there, as you will be removing the fork tubes from the triple trees. Leave the top plug in-place to bust-loose the hex allen screw accessed through the bottom of the slider, an air tool and the proper socket make this easy. Common changes are different fork springs, and spacers, cartridge emulators or RICOR oil damping mechanisms, and adjustable fork caps. BTW, what is the pressure in your forks? Typical is ~5-14 psi, though aftermarket springs may-not require it.
That's a good start for you.
Last edited:
Johnnymax
Member
yes, those would be the ones. Thanks for the heads up
Johnnymax
Member
Emailed both of them.. And Fire Medic? I'm a firefighter in Spokane WA.. also technically a fire medic.. LOL
The scoops are cast aluminium, but you may be referring to the carb covers. These are plastic with a metallised layer that can peel off and once that happens, they're scrap. You could remove the layer and paint them but I'm not aware of any process that can "rechrome" them, there may be shiny metallic file available?
One of my background tasks is looking at angled stainless steel exhaust tubing, in theory one piece could be cut in half lengthways and with a couple of extra bits of metal, made to fit.
One of my background tasks is looking at angled stainless steel exhaust tubing, in theory one piece could be cut in half lengthways and with a couple of extra bits of metal, made to fit.
I replaced one of my carb covers with an air horn using a bracket I made. Note the carburetor synch pipes/tubes are accessible.
You could plasti-dip the vanity covers, that should improve their looks if the plastic 'chrome' coat has failed.
You could plasti-dip the vanity covers, that should improve their looks if the plastic 'chrome' coat has failed.
desert_max
Well-Known Member
I personally have never, ever liked those gaudy, cheap plastic intake covers. On every Vmax I have ever had, I remove them and keep the hardware underneath there scrupulously clean. In my opinion, that’s the best look.
