cleaning small pieces using grinding, chemical and media-blasting

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Fire-medic

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FYI one of the most useful tools I have for cleaning smaller parts like electrical contacts is my Dremel MotoTool or equivalent.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Pages/default.aspx
With a brass bristle brush in it, you can do a great job of safely cleaning them. There are different shape brushes avail., some are radial discs,

some are 'cup-style,' shaped like a concave cup when viewed from the business end,

one is a short-wire brush which looks like a pencil eraser.

Different metals are used for the brushes, w/brass and steel being the ones I see most-often. I think they may have stainless steel too. Harbor Freight sells brushes too quite a bit cheaper than the '1-per-pkg.' Dremels, but the Dremels seem to last longer in-use, they don't shed their wire quills as-quickly as the HFT ones. Also, please be sure and wear eye protection! These brushes will shed their wire quills as they work and you don't want to have to go to the E.R. to have some pieces of wire removed from your eye surface. They use gentian blue to dye your eye so they can locate the embedded projectiles and a UV light to find the pieces embedded in your eye for removal, and there is a week-long recuperation as your eye heals, every time you blink it is like sand in your eye, v. uncomfortable! So, please use eye protection every time!

Another of the Dremel bits I find very useful are the sandpaper flap discs in different grades of roughness (120 & 80 grit). The key to these is using the right amount of pressure and the right speed on your variable-speed switch. They work great for larger surfaces which need to be cleaned and w/a bit of care, last a good long time. I find these worthwhile to use on gasket mating surfaces where you are joining two flat machined-castings like crankcase halves. I suggest using the finer of the two grades of abrasive I see at the Dremel display so you won't remove metal. For contoured pieces which can get cruddy, like the master cyl caps which have a cast channel in their underside, where the rubber gasket resides, I recommend one of the narrow radial brass or steel brushes to clean the channel. I use brake fluid cleaner to remove any gorp or other residue after cleaning, again, use safety glasses to keep the spray out of your eyes, as chemical burns can be very uncomfortable to the eyes and may lead to permanent damage!

HFT has an inexpensive gun-style "spot" media blaster (normally about $20, I got mine on-sale for <$10) which I fill w/baking soda I buy at the local Costco, they have it cheaper than HFT, which is saying something! It does tend to make a mess and spread everywhere, so don't use it anywhere near a disassembled motor.
image_13512.jpg


Once the baking soda is airborne, it can land many feet away from where you used it. This is good for cleaning small parts with tarnish or mild corrosion and I have used it to clean the male/female spade terminals found in many electrical connectors.

Here is a link to a business which has a great array of different attachments and bits for rotary tools, and they offer other suppliers besides Dremel, for instance they have flap wheels in different sizes/diameters/lengths/grits compared to Dremel's products.
http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/CTGY/dremel-sanding-flap-wheel
I recommend you buy several at a time, that way, you have them on-hand when you wear one out. This last one is the Osborne Helituf brush and should be good for cleaning things like master cylinder bores or other narrow spaces.

Widget Supply has bulk wire brushes which reduces the price to about $0.44/apiece for the 3/4" size if you buy 36. http://www.widgetsupply.com/page/WS/PROD/dremel-brush-steel-wheel/SFH2-SMS69

Be sure to click thru the links to find just the shape brush, abrasive, or grinding bit you need.

Another tool I have found useful is the Dremel attachment which allows you to fit the bits into narrower spaces than you can with the motor itself, it's a 36" whip w/a narrow bit holder.

My father bought me my first rotary tool when I was about 12 so I could work on my HO slot cars in the early 1960's, and nearly 50 years later I still have it, but mostly I use a variable speed Dremel. It has paid for itself many times over by allowing me to make repairs on all kinds of things around the house besides the rolling or floating stock. And now that Christmas is here, the perfect time for a gift you can actually get some good use out of in your maintenance work! I bought one of the lesser sets w/a 3 speed switch Dremel several years ago for one of my brothers at Radio Shack, it was <$30 on-sale. He used it the first week he had it to make a hardware repair on cabinetry on the job and saved many times the purchase price in replacement and man-hour costs.

HFT has their own brand of course, and I suppose that if you wanted to cheap-out and get theirs you just take it back if it breaks. Their warranty is usually not the same (read, 'less') as if you bought a Dremel from Ace Hardware or a big-box store.
image_18088.jpg
$22.97

Once you have one and a supply of bits and fixtures, you will find many applications which will save you time, $, and frustration.
 
.....a brass bristle brush in it,

....the sandpaper flap discs...I find these worthwhile to use on gasket mating surfaces

A good posting and I agree that the Dremel is an excellent tool for cleaning parts.

I'd also add the carborundum cutting disc's as a 'must have' - particularly useful for cutting over-braid or braided brake hoses.

Agree with the safety glasses and would also add a dust mask if sanding.

Note that the brass brushes do leave a brass residue.

The only point I would take issue with is using an abrasive flap wheel on gasket surfaces.
This (at a push) may be OK on steel or cast iron but (IMHO) has no place for aluminium.
They DO take off metal and a slip, too much pressure or too fast a speed could leave a significant gouge or ripple the surface.
It's easy to remove metal but an lot more difficult to replace it.

I have found that an old chisel or scraper are the best tools for getting the old gaskets off - they are easy to control, flat and as you can adjust the angle of attack the risk of damaging the surface is minimal.
 
Yes, that sounds sensible to use a scraper instead of a flap wheel. I use the flapper on steel or iron mostly. A chemical cleaner and a good scraper can clean nearly any aluminum surface.

A good posting and I agree that the Dremel is an excellent tool for cleaning parts.

I'd also add the carborundum cutting disc's as a 'must have' - particularly useful for cutting over-braid or braided brake hoses.

Agree with the safety glasses and would also add a dust mask if sanding.

Note that the brass brushes do leave a brass residue.

The only point I would take issue with is using an abrasive flap wheel on gasket surfaces.
This (at a push) may be OK on steel or cast iron but (IMHO) has no place for aluminium.
They DO take off metal and a slip, too much pressure or too fast a speed could leave a significant gouge or ripple the surface.
It's easy to remove metal but an lot more difficult to replace it.

I have found that an old chisel or scraper are the best tools for getting the old gaskets off - they are easy to control, flat and as you can adjust the angle of attack the risk of damaging the surface is minimal.
 
My favorite gasket scraper is a sticker remover. It uses a single edge razor blade and doesn't harm the surface if you?re careful, I change the blade a lot, and they?re cheap, they are also brittle. For heavy scraping, with access room, I use a Mac gasket scraper, it won't break and last forever. Acetone/paint thinner and a.f.t. mixed 50/50 are becoming my everything mix. I prefer scotch brite to sandpaper to finish up. On something huge, like an oil pan gasket on a car engine, I like air powered angle grinders with a scotch brite disk. I keep the shop vac on to try to catch everything possible. Can't be too clean. I mean in the engine, my shoes? oh well.
If I can get to my bench grinder wirh a brass wire wheel, things move along fast.
Dremals are great tools, but the center screw has to be taken notice of at all times or it makes for a bad day. Especially when polishing something.
Steve

QUOTE=Fire-medic;228580]Yes, that sounds sensible to use a scraper instead of a flap wheel. I use the flapper on steel or iron mostly. A chemical cleaner and a good scraper can clean nearly any aluminum surface.[/QUOTE]
 
Good post! I'd like to see if I can find one of those media blasters here. Tnat looks good!

I have never had a dremel, I use the cheap chinese oneslike you had a picture of, but they don't last too long. Good thing is, you can abuse them!

I find these better for gasket removal. http://3mcollision.com/3m-light-rust-and-paint-remover-03173.html They are less likely to remove metal from gasket surfaces, and you only have to use them lightly and quickly. (On a drill, but I wonder if dremel does something similar?)
 
That's great for the job, but I preferr the no metal center disk. Prolly a bit more, but worth it.


Good post! I'd like to see if I can find one of those media blasters here. Tnat looks good!

I have never had a dremel, I use the cheap chinese oneslike you had a picture of, but they don't last too long. Good thing is, you can abuse them!

I find these better for gasket removal. http://3mcollision.com/3m-light-rust-and-paint-remover-03173.html They are less likely to remove metal from gasket surfaces, and you only have to use them lightly and quickly. (On a drill, but I wonder if dremel does something similar?)
 
soda gun looks interesting

You can use whatever media you want which will feed w/o jamming the siphon passage. I use it for sandblasting too but you have to use the blasting sand as the stuff you get for your kid's toybox is too-inconsistent, it jams-up repeatedly. I have a small pressure blasting system that takes about 1/2 a sand bag at a time for bigger pieces, frames, exhausts, etc.

"Acetone/paint thinner and a.f.t. mixed 50/50 "
I know you mean, 'ATF!' I use it straight as a solvent, cheap, reliable, effective. I have ZEP spray bottles for mineral spirits which is what I often use, and if I need something w/no oil, I use store-brand brake cleamer spray cans.
 
I used to do all the above for gasket cleaning on these engines until I got one of the 3M plastic wheels! The green is my all time favorite and works the best when it's half worn.

http://www.3m.com/product/images/Bristle-Discs-300.jpg

Sean


I like the look of those. Haven't seen them here yet.

Steve's right, the metal center can be an issue. More so on the dremel. I don't think I've seen one without metal in the center.
 
Great topic Medic! after seeing that media blaster i need one. +1 on the dremel really great for hard to reach areas. :banana:
 
Great topic Medic! after seeing that media blaster i need one. +1 on the dremel really great for hard to reach areas. :banana:

look for the cupons where you get $ off @ HFT & as I said, sometimes they go on-sale for <$10!

I buy the HFT Dremel-style pieces but they don't last as-long, but if they are 1/3 the price, so-what?

I am gonna try the 3M finger-discs that Kyle & Sean tout, I haven't used them before, but I have the female receptacle for using them on my grinder, just never bought any of that style.
 
HFT has an inexpensive gun-style "spot" media blaster (normally about $20, I got mine on-sale for <$10) which I fill w/baking soda I buy at the local Costco, they have it cheaper than HFT, which is saying something! It does tend to make a mess and spread everywhere, so don't use it anywhere near a disassembled motor.
image_13512.jpg


Once the baking soda is airborne, it can land many feet away from where you used it. This is good for cleaning small parts with tarnish or mild corrosion and I have used it to clean the male/female spade terminals found in many electrical connectors.

Does this thing just hook up to any ole air compressor and does it remove paint and clear coat? I ask because I have alot of stuff I'm going to have to strip and I'd like to save on the amount of elbow grease I'll have to put into my projects. I was also thinking about this soda blaster
 
I like scotch-brite pads (or the wheels) for old gasket removal. Those plastic finger wheels are nice but I have kind of a tough time finding them in small sizes, usually when I find them they're big 6" or bigger discs.

I actually slammed my stator cover into a big disc sander when it was warped and kept leaking oil. "low" spots quickly emerged, kept sanding until it was uniform, no more leaks. It didn't take long on the aluminum. On prior tries I was surprised how easy it was to nick the surface with a razor scraper(and still not get all the old cruddy gasket material off).

I've head of smearing a bit of vaseline on both sides of the gasket to help make removal later easier, prevents it from getting glued to the surface.
 
Pics of my HFT 20 lb. media pressure can & before & after work, done this week.

I used 2 1/2 bags of kiln-dried sand 35/60 grade.
 

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