Clutch change

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rebeltaz83

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I'm wanting to replace my entire clutch assembly, it started slipping bad after the flash. I'm doing the clutch discs and friction discs (I'm sure they have hot spots) and I noticed there are different thicknesses of a clutch disc, and friction disc. I don't want to get the wrong ones and have to do this again. So what's the proper way to find what thickness I need without having premature clutch failure again??
 
I have not replaced these yet since they last well and I don't get many gen 2's in the shop needing a clutch. BUT, I believe you have to get both and do a stackup measurement to get the right total stack height so the slipper part of the clutch works correctly.
 
My clutch was just starting to slip before I did the DD mod and clutch retainer. It never slipped after that.
 
I'm wanting to replace my entire clutch assembly, it started slipping bad after the flash. I'm doing the clutch discs and friction discs (I'm sure they have hot spots) and I noticed there are different thicknesses of a clutch disc, and friction disc. I don't want to get the wrong ones and have to do this again. So what's the proper way to find what thickness I need without having premature clutch failure again??

Sean is right....the absolute correct way would be to measure the stack height. That being said everyone I know that has replaced their clutch has gone with all the same standard size frictions and have been good.

It may be if you don't replace the steels that then it make sense to measure everything and adjust if necessary, although theoretical I don't think the steels should wear at all.......they can warp and blue.

I have one of each "off size" if you want them. I bought a complete clutch set for my first gen 2 thinking they may need to be replaced but they were fine at 20k miles. I ended up selling all the disks and steels (minus the "off sized"" to a friend that did his clutch.
 
It may just be the second clutch spring then, and me. It doesn't slip now, but it grabs just about all the way out, before it would grab just a few mm away from the hand grip.
 
What's the tolerances of the stack?? Lol.
I need to download the service manual again. It's on my old phone, and that's long gone.
 
My clutch always grabbed at the end of the travel. I thought they were all like that.

I have had no slipping issue and at 48k miles. I am pretty easy on the bike as a whole. I basically don't get on it until the clutch is fully engaged.

I'd be interested to know where some other owners clutch grabs.
 
My clutch always grabbed at the end of the travel. I thought they were all like that.

I have had no slipping issue and at 48k miles. I am pretty easy on the bike as a whole. I basically don't get on it until the clutch is fully engaged.

I'd be interested to know where some other owners clutch grabs.

It wasn't far off the hand grip when it was new. It slipped allot after the Nash flash. But I didn't really notice how far out it grabbed until after I installed the 2nd clutch spring. I really have to feather it to keep it from grabbing and stalling the engine. Me? Or time for a clutch? Lol. I don't remember the 2nd spring changing the clutch free play like this on my gen 1, it grabbed the same spot, just had a slight harder pull.
 
I went for a little ride today, and I think just the muscle memory of 1 spring, and going to 2 messed with my head, it felt fine tonight. My starts are better and smoother.
 
I have to replace the clutch cable on my 94 1200 vmax how hard is and is it expensive.
 
Perhaps you have air in the line. What is the fluid level? It should be > 1/2-full in the handlebar reservoir. You should have clear or near-clear brake fluid, if it's dark, time for a complete flush, directions below.

Where are you located? Add your city/state below your screen name, it will help someone by you to help, and the rest of us will know what state, etc.

Info for you.
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/reverse-bleeding-clutch.47305/#post-472105
 

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