Clutch disengaged after changing clutch plates

[hsjosh]

Hi guys,

I just got a 1992 1200cc VMAX (Yay me!) and I changed the clutch plates because the previous owner said it was slipping. I pulled the clutch lever while the pressure plate was off (I don't know why I did that) and now when I put the pressure plate back on it does not engage (Stuck in the open position). I was thinking that just tightening up the clutch springs/pressure plate would bring the plates back but maybe not (Because that didn't work)? Is there an easy way to reset the plates so they engage again? It's a hydraulic clutch so I'm wondering if it's a pressure thing like when you change your brakes and have to pry them back open in order to fit the new pads on the rotor.

Thanks in advance for any help!

 

[Fire-medic]

Sounds like an air bubble, you probably need to bleed the clutch. I recommend a 'reverse-bleed.'
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/clutch-slave-cylinder-replacement.45011/

 

[hsjosh]

Thanks for the advice! Yeah it's probably the original fluid anyway so changing it out would be a good thing....and now that you mention it, that may have been the problem with the slipping clutch in the first place. I put a micrometer on the old plates and they are within spec.

 

[Fire-medic]

Your fluid isn't supposed to be opaque! Yes, change it, and use the reverse-bleed to do the brakes too.

 

[MaxMidnight]

I put a micrometer on the old plates and they are within spec.

That was my findings as well when mine were slipping.

 

[Fire-medic]

The type of oil you use has an effect on your clutch, and not in a good way, for the use of automotive 'high-mileage' oils. "Oil is oil, right?" Not for wet-clutch bikes.

 

[user 16790]

mine were in spec too, maybe the spring/diaphragm looses it's power rate after time

 

[MaxMidnight]

The type of oil you use has an effect on your clutch, and not in a good way, for the use of automotive 'high-mileage' oils. "Oil is oil, right?" Not for wet-clutch bikes.

I've always used oils without friction modifiers so that wasn't the case here. I also measured the diaphragm spring height against the specification...it was OK.

 

[Screwloose]

On mine (99 Canadian) the clutch rod was stuck in the out position with the result of a permanent sliding clutch. I just do not know how this happened as there was no warning, it just happened after standing for 6 months. eventually found the problem with the clutch slave cylinder needing cleaned out and new fluid as the guys have mentioned above, and using reverse bleed. The plates were right on lower limit, I re-used them and they were okay. Everything is now working, but it was the first time in my biking history this has happened.

 

[Fire-medic]

On mine (99 Canadian) the clutch rod was stuck in the out position with the result of a permanent sliding clutch. I just do not know how this happened as there was no warning, it just happened after standing for 6 months. eventually found the problem with the clutch slave cylinder needing cleaned out and new fluid as the guys have mentioned above, and using reverse bleed. The plates were right on lower limit, I re-used them and they were okay. Everything is now working, but it was the first time in my biking history this has happened.

How-bad was it?

 

[Screwloose]

How-bad was it?

View attachment 73476View attachment 73477View attachment 73478

Mine was looking exactly like your photos LoL. Once cleaned up with new slave cylinder kit and reverse bled it was great, although I did have to give the clutch rod a few taps with a mallet to get it to return.

 

[hsjosh]

The type of oil you use has an effect on your clutch, and not in a good way, for the use of automotive 'high-mileage' oils. "Oil is oil, right?" Not for wet-clutch bikes.

So in terms of oil, I read a few other posts in different forums that this was the one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LH7L0XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would you guys say that one would work?

 

[Parminio]

How-bad was it?

View attachment 73476View attachment 73477View attachment 73478

That happens when you store your bike in a swamp.

 

[Fire-medic]

So in terms of oil, I read a few other posts in different forums that this was the one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LH7L0XA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Would you guys say that one would work?

Confirmation:
https://www.vmaxforum.net/threads/preferred-oil-type.44864/

 

[Fire-medic]

That happens when you store your bike in a swamp.

I'm more worried that a chupacabra will gnaw on my soft-parts.

 

[hsjosh]

Ok - I think we may have narrowed down a concern or two on this issue. I'm thinking this might hamper smooth functionality just a tad:

 

[Fire-medic]

Just flush, bleed/change it a couple times, that should do it. Ensure that you get clear fluid throughout. The reverse-bleed helps greatly with this.

'Water,' consistency, not pancake syrup. Don't forget the f & r brakes for the same flush/replacement.

Tell us what PSI you have now in the forks. Beware trying to add air, the capacity is tiny, you can actually push the fork seals off their seat by using too-much volume/time charging the downtubes.

 

[hsjosh]

Thanks! I took off the master clutch/lever and flushed it out with water, then carb cleaner to get rid of the water. My plan from here is to reverse flush it without attaching the banjo bolt back on then flush a bit more after I put the master back on.

 

[desert_max]

A good flush with alcohol never hurts. With the system looking like that I would make sure all the contaminants from years of neglect have been thoroughly flushed through.

 

[Fire-medic]

My take on 'how-to do it," you do it as you choose:

Use a syringe or a MityVac to evacuate the master cylinder. You leave it all assembled. If you have hard encrustations, caked onto the master cylinder, you may need to remove it and to use some way to break-up the hardened deposits. I remove the piston/seals, so I have a bare casting, and then use a media blaster cabinet to clean the interior. I try to leave the exterior alone unless the black coating has failed. A soda blaster bottle 15 lb. Portable Soda Blaster works well, too, or one of the guns which require an air compressor. Gravity Feed Blaster Gun with 20 oz. Hopper

You can try leaving the bleeder at the engine cases open for a gravity bleed, but the slave cylinder will still contain a quantity of viscous fluid. You should remove the side cover giving you access to the slave cylinder, and remove it to completely flush it. You should see if it's showing signs of leaking, crystallized material will be evident. At that point, you need to re-build it (an OEM kit is inexpensive) or replace it. Reassemble everything, reverse-bleed it from the slave cylinder bleeder nipple, (when the tiny fizzy bubbles stop entering the master cylinder, you've bled it adequately) and with a few pumps of the brake lever, you should get a firm lever, where you encounter resistance after a short distance pull on the hand lever.

Fill the slave cylinder with brake fluid before you install it. A tip: be very-sure that you use a good fitting driver to remove the screws for the slave cylinder, you don't want to strip-out those! I usually use a hand impact driver, it doesn't take a big impact to release the screws, but you want them out and not with the heads 'buggered.'